Re: 10,000mi initial OCI - It's mostly due to the additive pack. I had my break-in oil analyzed by Blackstone, and it showed > 500 ppm of Molybdenum (anti-wear). One of these days, I'll post that report in the 'share' section - I'd been curious to see what's in the magic Honda break-in oil for some time, and perhaps others might have their curiosity sated, as well.
(edit - 7/6/05: I've now posted the report in the 'share' section)
The other things we noted in the report were higher than normal Al, Si, and Cu - all due to break-in.
I changed mine out at 3781mi (my dealer advised 3750 for 1st oil change, btw). The TBN (Total Base Number, or amount of additive left) was listed at 2.8 (when it gets below 1, it's time to change it out).
Initial break-in looked complete at about 1700mi - I noticed the engine had loosened up a bit at 1200, and I got FE boosts at both mileages.
In retrospect, I wish I had changed out the oil at about 2000mi, with one that has a lot of Moly in it, to get rid of the Al and Cu (Aluminum is from the pistons / cylinder walls; Copper is from the bearings).
The Honda oil at the dealer has a fair amount (over 100ppm, IIRC) - but 1oz of Valvoline SynPower engine treatment added to the new oil will boost the moly (at least) to the break-in oil spec. It'll also raise the cSt (centistokes) significantly (higher levels are better). Found all of this out at
www.bobistheoilguy.com - look at the 'virgin oil analysis' & 'used oil analysis' sections for gas engines - you can spend hours pouring over all the data there
So, in closing, here's what I'd do to *my* car, in hindsight...especially if I were going to keep it for the long-haul (10yrs or more). I'm doing the last 3 things currently.
- Change out the break-in oil / filter at 2000mi (or whenever broken in, rounded to the next 500mi interval). I want those wear metals and Silicone out of the engine.
- Go with a dino oil until 7500mi, adding 1oz of the SynPower (which will boost the moly, same as the break-in oil). You could change out at 5000, if you were really worried.
- At 7500mi, change out to a good synthetic (Mobil1, or, if you've got $ to spend, Amsoil). Again, boost with the SynPower until at least 15K, and preferably 20-25K.
- Change
no later than every 7500mi to keep the warranty intact on the J30 V6 (10K is for the K24 I4, and the later Civic engines). If running synoil, 7500 should be pretty safe. Consider having the dealer do the changes, for warranty purposes. They'll generally deduct from the bill, if you bring them the oil, and Honda promotes their oil changes at about $29.95, IIRC.
- Have UOAs performed at selected intervals, to keep track of wear (optional).
- For filters, I'd go with the Honda OEM, especially during warranty period. They should be able to go 7500mi. Afterward, Purolator PureOne seems to be a good choice for an OCI of this type. Mobil1 filter is even better, but unless you're going to do extended drains, it's a bit costly.
- Finally, consider changing out the transmission fluid at 15K, to get rid of the wear metals from that component. The AT on the V6 engines has been failing in excess of 3% during the period '98-'03. Most of the issues should be fixed by now (3rd clutch seems to still be outstanding), but I think I'm going to over-maintain the AT, based on what I saw from my '01 coupe. There's no magic break-in fluid in the AT, but make sure you replace with only Honda ATF - it does affect shift quality.
Just my thoughts...YMMV
