I have a 2009 Toyota Camry Hybrid. For the first 6,308 miles I averaged 36.1794 MPG. I did not have a tank of gas that dropped below 30.836. Then all of a suddent I have gotten several tanks of gas that have dropped to 25.697 / 26.705 / 26.916 MPG. I had the car into the Toyota dealer and they did an examination that appeared to show nothing wrong with the Camry. I have been watching to see if the gas station that I buy the gas at makes a difference and Murphy USA & Kroger appear to be lower then other stations. Can the place you buy the gas or the driver have anything to do with the low MPG per tank of gas?

Well...

If you just want to use the stereo system and the steering wheel controls, they go to gether like "peanut butter & Jelly".

Every CABLE connected just fine, except ONE... there is a cable, the 2nd from the left if you are looking at the rear of the unit (2010 JBL\Fujitsu-ten). I am wondering if this is a cable that splits to provide power and noise cancellation to both the Factory Microphone within the Ceiling console that controls the lights and sunroofs on some cars, and the auxilliary input, or if it controls the entire BT. All ofthe steering wheel controls work just fine. the display is slightly different. But I had a "Crash and Burn" kind of moment when trying to get the BT to sync... Remember, 2010 models have upgraded BT (2.0 or 2.1) that has the AD2P audio profiles to allow you to stream your audio from you Bluetooth enabled cell phone to your stereo system. In order to sync the phone, you need to give it a name, via the MIC... well since the MIC's are incompatible or rather it just doesn't work, I couldn't get past that first part.

I drive 2 hours EVERY day, so I desperately wanted an upgrade, because I talk a lot on the phone, and I have Slackr and Pandora on my blackberry and thus wanted to listen to the tunes without having to hastle with a cable.

For now, I have placed my old stereo system back in the deck... (it was very easy to take out) and am trying to acquire an OEM factory Handsfree MIC. I can't seem to find anyone online, and most of the parts distributers only have 2009 Camry parts... which is vastly different (2009 Camry uses the same stereo system as our 2007's).

If anyone has any suggestions, I am certainly open to them.

This has been asked before.... but I can't seem to find the answer... :embarass:

What ... specifically!!! ... does the ECO button do when it is turned on???? It doesn't seem to make a difference in MPG. But it does make a difference in the ability of the AC to cool the car ... and keep it cool ... on a Texas summer day. :sun: :(

Has anyone had their windshield replaced recently? I did a search and the info. with pricing was back in 2006 when these cars were first released. I need to have mine replaced and was curious about current pricing (pay myself or go to insurance). I'm hoping they've come down in price since 2006 as these cars are much more readily available.

Help pls!
I've bought a used TCH but the "HYBRID" plate is missing from the left side of the car. Where can I buy a new one?

Well, the sun visor war is drawing to a close. After 2 weeks of brutal back and forth warfare with Toyota. And after untold thousands of salary dollars were spent fighting my demand and after literally making a Federal case out of it, Toyota agreed to replace my sun visor free of charge. I've spent the last six weeks waiting for the part because it is on backorder worldwide... this part that they have never seen fail, ever.

No call, no postcard, no email... I had to call the stealership myself every week to ask if production had caught up with demand yet on this part that Toyota has "never seen fail, except through abuse". Today, they said the part arrived. I have an appointment at lunch tomorrow to have it installed.

Curiously, ABC News on the web this morning is running a story about Toyota's stuck accelerators and floor mat issues. Some folks on this site have suggested that maybe the real problem isn't floor mats, but and electrical problem (like Ford in the 90's) that is causing runaway acceleration.

Sources at NTSB have told ABC News that there have been over 2,000 documented cases of un-commanded acceleration beyond 100mph. The cars in these cases had either OEM mats, aftermarket mats, or in many cases, no mats at all when this problem occurred.

I'm getting a bad feeling about this.

Look at the trouble this company endures to deny a known defect on a stupid sun visor... How do you suppose they would behave if confronted with a potentially fatal electrical or software defect, that they do not yet fully understand and/or do not have fix for.

Conventional wisdom over the last 30 years says Toyota is better than this. What happened?

When I talk to people, they hear to much noise interference in the background. I used to have proper instructions from somewhere on the board... but can't find them now.

Can someone direct me to a link?

I have an 07 Camry Hybrid with the JBL (manufacured by Panasonic) 6-disc changer with Bluetooth.

I am tired of my BT sounding horrible to others. For the most part, it lacks noise cancellation, and since I do a TON of highway travel, people complain about the highway noise and how that makes it hard to understand me.

So I am going to change speed. I am starting to see some of the 2010 OEM Disc Changers for sale, so I am going to grab one of those, and one of the Blu-logic systms from Toyota, and toss those in my car, when I get the chance.

Anyone else have any experience with this?
From what I can see, the pin-outs on the stereo system, look the same.

I use trip set A for oil change intervals.
At 4950 miles the MAINT REQD warning came on 'briefly' (cycling through clears the warning) which I believe is correct, since it gives you 50 miles before your next oil change as a warning.
After 5000 miles, the warning stays 'solid' (you can cycle through to see the other information, but the warning returns after five seconds).
I'm okay with that.
This morning the warning came on and stayed solid (cycling throught didn't clear it).
I looked at my odometer reading and noticed that the car hit exactly 24,500 miles when the warning went solid.
Trip A (oil reset) was at 4987.
I thought the warning was only for oil changes and came on only when the miles hit 5000.
Is there anything that would cause this?
It seems like it's more than coincidence that it went solid at 24,500
It's not a big deal as I reset the indicator in anticipation of a scheduled oil change, however occurring at this mileage interval is a little troubling.

According to Toyota.com...


Any ideas?

Advance Auto Parts is running an oil change special on Mobil 1. For $29.99, you get 5 quarts of Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. This runs until November 25th. (I am in no way associated with Advance Auto Parts or Mobil 1, just an interested TCH driver).

Additionally, they are running a Buy One Get One Free special on Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner, also running until the 25th.

Hope this helps :shade:

According to the ScanGauge, my engine usually runs at 185-188. In the summer, it can get as high as 195 and it has gotten above 200 if it's hot and there's a lot of city driving.

Anyway, it's not summer anymore and I'm driving in 50-60 degree weather and I notice my car now has runs up to 193 and by the time I turn off the car, the maximum temperature is usually 193-195. It worries me because it's been basically a 30 degree drop in temperature but the engine is runner hotter.

Per my 30,000 checkup, couple things they looked at was the cooling system for leaks, hoses, etc.. and they didn't seem to find anything wrong. My car is only shy of 30,000 by 5 miles but it's been running "hot" ever since the change in weather and I'd say that's at least 400 miles. Off the top of my head, the coolant level is half an inch below the F level. I recently removed the bumper to clean out the radiator but aside from some bugs and pebbles, it didn't look that dirty but I cleaned it out anyway. (Also, I found some of those roofing nail clips mentioned in a previous thread and broke it)

I also want to say this coincides with the rear defrost light flicker that I mentioned earlier but fans and heat/cooling all work so I can't say if that means anything.

Went to the dealer and explained my situation and he said it was normal. Looked in my Owner's manual and it stated "Engine coolant temperature continually higher than normal" as one of those clues that something is wrong. At this point, I'm not sure what to do or what to ask the dealer to do. They said they could do a pressure test for 60 bucks but I passed. Radiator fans turn on at 200 per my experience and the fact that I'm getting very close to that threshold bothers me.

So...normal or paranoia?

It's amazing how much cold weather with snow and ice can affect your MPGs. Here in Colorado (Denver suburb area) we’ve had several big snow storms so far and lots of cold weather. We also had a very mild summer (definitely not global warming this year). Anyway even with a block heater my mileage drops an average of 5 mpgs on snow and icey days … doesn’t help that you carry extra weight with the ice and snow stuck to the wheel wells and under the car.

Also learned using the car interior heater will affect whether the engine shuts off or not at a light. As soon as you hit the off switch on the steering wheel, within a second the motor will quit. I tested this by turning the heater back on and sure enough the motor started instantly. The temp on the SG at the time was around 130 degrees. So if you want to improve MPGs slightly (very slightly) and stopped a long light, shut the heater off!

Speaking of the block heater, not sure I can tell it made a difference. I have it come on 4 hours prior to driving and depending on whether I park in the garage or not, the temp on the scan gauge will be around 128 in the garage and 109 out of the garage. This is with the temps over night in the mid 20 degree range. Perhaps has made some difference, but the easier drive is to work and it is slightly downhill so don’t need a lot of power and the MPGs are normally 5 to 8 better than the return trip. BTW, I have a gauge that will record how much electricity a device is using. I plugged my block heater into this unit and found that running for 4 hours, it uses .18 cents worth of electricity at 11.9 (considers all taxes) cents per kwh. This was the average over about 3 days.

My 2010 (and 2007) Camry hybrid scrapes most of the time entering my driveway. It is at an angle. I wanted to get suggestions on the best way to increase the ground clearance by 1" - 2".

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I am currently sitting in the waiting room for an oil change and state inspection. I am nearly at 30k and asked about what they would do and how much it would cost for a 30k "check-up." I was quoted about $270 and that would include oil change, tire rotation, changing air and cabin air filters, and inspecting this and that and the other thing.

Is this a rip off? I'm going to go back and ask them what it'd cost if we took out the oil change and filter replacements (since I'm just doing the oil change now and changed both my filters at 25k). Anyone else have experience with their Toyota Dealer's service on this point? Thanks!

By the way, my oil change is free today because they royally f-ed up my last one (I usually bring my own oil and filter, and they put neither in the first time around...) :shade:

I just replaced my wiper blades (insert only) with Toyota OEM blades from the dealer. As the blade ends its upsweep and starts it's downsweep, it is noisy.
I recall being impressed how quiet the blades were when the car was new.
Is there anything that can be done?
Thanks!