Has anyone installed the Honda Hands Free Link that Honda has available as an OEM accessory in their 2006-2008 Civic?

http://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-H...0-E10-100.aspx

I like the HFL that came form the factory with our 2010 Insight, but this one is slightly different. Does anyone have experience with this specific OEM accessory?

Thanks,

Mike

I have HCH 2006
I went to mechanic to repair something in the axis of the right front wheel and after he repair it, the light of (ABS) & (Break System) always on, I don't know why and the mechanical try to rest the diagnostic codes and the problem is still there.. :embarass:

The big problem also when this lights appeared in ...the same time the autostop feature doesn't work at all, and I feel like the engine want to stop and the PRM drop slightly and return to normal position... :confused:

What I can do ? The not professional mechanic told me I have to replace the ABS sensor in the right front wheel, is that right ?

One of the features unavailable in a Canadian marketed 2007 HCH is the remote (keyless) trunk release.

I have wanted to "upgrade" to this since I have had the car, but am unsure how the alarm system would deal with it.

That said, at http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/honda_parts.php I can buy what appears to be a correct truck power lock assembly (part # 74851-SNA-A22).

I must assume that this unit is "plug and play". Will the actual alarm system have to be modified as well? Can one (using the solenoid in this new part) simply use any aftermarket keyless entry product? Or, do I need to find an actual USA HCH key fob with the extra "trunk" button on same?

perfect solution I am aiming for: with part # 74851-SNA-A22 installed, I can get a correct USA key fob (off E-Bay) and have said key reprogrammed to my Canadian car.

solution I am expecting: with part # 74851-SNA-A22 installed, I purchase an off the shelf aftermarket key less entry system and wire it in only to trigger the solenoid in the trunk lock.

I need to know if the alarm system in my Canadian HCH will prohibit any of this.

Any opinions are most welcome. Thanks

Cheers

Mike

Ok so i found an 06 civic hybrid with 50k on the clock and the dealer is only asking $14,000. The car is priced well under bluebook which makes me wonder. I ran a vehicle history report and found that the car had one owner and it was under a lease program. No reported problems at all. Now the car is under warranty because its honda certified but i'm worried that ill buy the car and it will have poor gas mileage right away. An 05 non hybrid civic with similar mileages runs for $10-11k. Should I be worried that ill get poor mpg and waste about 4k if the car doesnt get 40+ mpg

Greetings. A few years ago while attending the NAIAS, I noticed some high end cars had interior lights that were too white to be normal incandescent bulbs.

Are there any LED (white) bulbs that could replace the current bulbs used in the dome lamp and reading lamp fixtures?

And while I'm asking, any way to swap exterior incandescent bulbs (i.e. brake/parking lamps) with LEDs?

Thanks

Cheers

Mike

I have a silver 2007 HCH II that I purchased new in february of 2007. In the beginning I was able to achieve pretty decent gas mileage somewhere in the low 40's to high 30's while driving exclusively in Atlanta stop and go city driving.
Over the last 2 and a half years my mileage has seriously slipped and now my computer reads not greater that 30 mpg. In fact I can barely get it to go over 29. I am filling up about every 250 miles which is just crazy. I have taken the car to two different dealerships and have been told that this is normal mpg for city driving!
I am at a total loss to as to how to get them to do a serious evaluation and help me to determine what may be happening...does anyone have any ideas? Here are some facts:
-37,000 miles (I have taken several long trips, otherwise is is about 11,000 per year)
-New tires that the dealer put on about 5,000 miles ago. They are Toyo Extensa which I now know are not LRR tires. I expected a mileage hit, but not 25++%. I asked for LRR and trusted them, but apparently they did not care to listen and I didn't think to do the research BEFORE i let them put them on. Honestly I didn't think I needed to since I was pretty clear about what tires I wanted.
-I use high mileage driving techniques all of the time. Coasting, no jackrabbit starts, etc.,
-I get a lot of battery re-calibrations, at least 3 times a week and more if I use the climate control.
-All maintenance is up to date and I have been diligent about keeping it that way
-I rear-ended someone after two months of ownership and did some pretty extensive damage (needless to say that was a BAD BAD BAD day). However, I did get fine gas mileage after that accident so that does not seem to be the cause.

Thanks in advance for the help. I really am getting to the point where I sincerely dislike this car even though it is the car I dreamed about owning. I want to love it, but right now its underpowered and get horrible gas mileage. I can live with underpowered if I am getting in the 40's, but not the 20's...Please help!

I've had my snow tires on for a week now, and I've noticed a ~11% hit from 45mpg to 40mpg on my regular commute with dry roads and temps in the 40-50s. Of course, the hit was a lot more (down to 32mpg) on the day we had 4" of heavy snow.

I went pretty aggressive with the tires and got Kuhmo KW 22s with studs. They have a deep tread pattern that is heavily siped, and I thought the snow traction was great! I was able to make it down my driveway without the ABS kicking in, and I made it back up without any slipage. The snow melted pretty quickly so I didn't get a chance to drive on hardpacked snow/ice to test out the studs, but I think they'll work just fine.

On one hand, it really sucks to have my mileage drop down that low, but it beats still beats the crap out of the mileage I would have gotten in the MMH (~30mpg dry, ~25mpg snow). The Civic is a little more suceptible to float when I hit drifts but I'll give it a hearty thumbs up for the first snow storm. If we get more than 8", I'll probably still drive the Mariner, but it's nice to not be forced to drive it if the forecast hints snow.

Greetings all

I installed a Sirius receiver dock in my HCH II 2 years ago....

I don't know how to insert a photo, but I (hope I) have attached one to help explain my question....

Bottom line: I'd like to temporarily remove the center consul so that I can correctly implement a firm attachment protocol from underneath said piece of trim.

Thanks

Cheers

Mike

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How many HCH II's are currently registered for use in North America?

Thanks

Cheers

Mike

Greetings all (from a newbie) from eastern Ontario

Situation: I have driven a 2007 Honda Civic Hybrid since 05 April 2007. I have been real happy with it and have an average of 4.8L/100km. The following phenomena did NOT make itself apparent during the first winter of ownership, however last winter and now this fall with the onset of cool weather:

When the ambient temperature (or wind chill in a highway speed scenario) dips below 13C, I get a single green bar of charge showing instead of where on the same stretch of road, same load, same speed in temps at 14C and above, I always get a more normal no green bars/one or 2 white bars of assist OR pure electric.

I noticed the effect in the early fall of last year. I tried to mitigate the effect with plugging all the holes in the front fascia with an elaborate air dam that I place behind the fascia and infront of the A/C condenser. This practice definitely helps with reaching a warm temp for auto-stop faster. I also notice that if all my driving is done in the city (i.e. no blast of cold air getting sucked into the air intake without my crude "pre-heat"), there is very little of this cruising around with very light throttle and "a single green bar of charge".

When I get onto an open road situation, and the intake air rate causes cold fall/winter/early spring air to be sucked into the engine bay faster than the ability for the air to be "pre-heated", I'll get the single green bar of charge under very light throttle (instead of pure electric or a few white bars of assist with some ICE).

The bars that show state of charge do not seem to have any bearing on this phenomena. This will occur when the state of charge is full, near full, halfway or low.

I had it into my dealer last February. The service manager, (a great guy who dealt with my rear suspension issue with a fast fix plus 2 new, free tires with no fanfare) went on a long test drive with me and agreed that "something was not right". We then tried the test drive with a computer attached to the OBD II socket to "soak up some data points", but that exercise proved inconclusive as no trouble codes could be found and the portable computer was having difficulty communicating with the car. By the time I set up a follow up appointment to try this all again with a different computer, the warm spring weather returned and effectively "hid" the phenomena.

Now that cool temps have returned, I have re-installed the air dam. I have now noticed the phenomenon again. The service manager wants to have another test drive and maybe try "a re-flash of the computer".

Since I am happy with the drivability of my car the rest of the time and since a "re-flash" does not seem to have been a help for other people with other IMA issues, I would really rather not try any software updates yet.

My garage is heated to 10C in the dead of winter and the engine bay is always "heated garage heat soaked" when I begin my morning drive to the YMCA.

The single bar of regen (under light throttle) will make itself apparent after about only 10 seconds outside my heated garage (as long as the outside temp is under 14C).

I have tried "pre-heat soaking" the throttle body assembly with a hair dryer prior to first drive of the day, and the single green bar phenomena will not happen for the first 20 seconds or so (until the cold air is sucked into the throttle body enough to chill it down).

The bottom line: a 3% decay in fuel economy (above and beyond the normal winter temp caused fuel economy decay that I have plotted on my home made Excel graphs) . Something in the throttle body gets "chilled" and "fooled" when it is cooler than 14C. Scenarios where a very light (feather light) throttle should give me pure electric drive OR the ICE with a few bars of assist, only a single green bar of assist shows. The state of charge bars can be full, partial, half, or low when this happens.

Any comments most welcome.

Cheers

Mike

Well, it's finally cooling off here in the desert so I am not sure how much this aided the past two mornings. Wed I left a bit early for work so I stayed in the far right lane and went 55mph instead of the 65mph that I normally do. The avg mpg went from it's typical 44-46 to 55mpgs. I am going to try and duplicate this on my next tank of gas since I have only a half tank now. I was amazed at how much the mpgs went up with only a difference of 400 rpms.

I'm putting about 28,000 miles a year on my 2008 model. Around 44,000 miles in 18 month thanks to a very long commute to work each day. Have not had one problem yet. Not a single hiccup. Wondering about how long the IMA battery will last on average. I know the warranty of 80,000 for where i live, but wanted real life examples.

Hello friends. After my first 10 months with my HCII , after driving 14.000 Kms (about 9000 miles) almost all of them inside Athens , a very difficult city to drive with many uphills and downhills , i am very pleased to have managed to keep my overall average fuel consumption to about 5.1-5.2 l/100km (about 45 mpg ) Perhaps many of you find it rather dissapointing number but i assure you i am extremely pleased , given the fact that almost all of theese kilometres are to and from work with a rather tight time schedule so i must sacrifise many times fuel consumption for time efficiency. ;)
One think i am still concerned about my car , after all theese months , is the way to drive in a constant uphill road. If you have to drive uphill for a long time what is the best way ( meaning less fuel consumption ) to drive :

1. your foot steady as a rock to the gas pedal , minimising machine effort as possible to keep a steady speed , no acceleration , no slowing
2. a short pressure to the gas , release the pedal for the car to slow down and then back to the gas

Assuming the uphill is long enough , what do you think is the best way to drive ? also , from th point of fuel consumption , better to drive in N or S ?

This Monday on way to airport my 2006 Civic's IMA light came on. I have close to 70K on the car and it has performed well until now. No other lights, IMA battery lights charged up normally, acceleration was normal, charging process seemed normal. Got to airport, left car for a few days and Friday came back to the same thing. As soon as I started the car the IMA light came on, no others. Car ran normal on way home.
I'll take it to a dealer next week, but is there anything I can check this weekend? Anyway for an owner to troubleshoot this to have an idea of problem? thanks

Just had the IMA battery replaced on my 2006 Civic Hybrid, which has 63 K miles on it. While it was covered under the warranty, I'm a little discouraged that we didn't get a longer life. Any ideas about what would cause what (to me) seems a premature failure?

BTW, the dealer quoted us approximately $5K (in FL) to replace the battery. If it were my $, I'd definitely have shopped around!

Other than that, and having to replace the electrical assist on the power steering last fall (also an expensive repair, not under warranty)--we love the car. Mileage has averaged around 45-46 mpg (up to 52-54 on long trips)--but quite a bit worse lately with new tires.

Carol