OK,
I goofed!!First time in at least 70 changed tires. Yesterday, it was raining, and another tire lt rear on 2006 Prius was kaput thanks to the zillions of nails(esp roofing) and other construction debris that litters our streets.This one was in the sidewall!
It is raining, my wife has had some serious med problems, and I'm in a hurry. I put the dinky spare on, and was giving them one last little nudge. I absolutely couldn't have exerted more than about 120lbs of torque(yeah, it calls for 85lb-ft but 120 is absolutely the most I was twisting).Well, suddenly the lug lets go,and I now have a nice lug nut in my hand.
What is the easiest way to repair it? I assume I have to punch it thru, but I can't see the stud on the other side, so other than the wheel, what do I have to remove??

I'm 55 yo 180 lbs and was using an old lug wrench with 4 11" levers.I was grasping them about 10" from the center, so if I was exerting 70 lbs with each arm(unlikely) it would be 120 lb-ft total-unlikely!
Thanks,
Charlie

Owch! There are some things you just take to a tire shop and ask what it costs to fix.

Bob Wilson

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To really do it right the new stud must be pressed in from the other side. I am not sure how toyota does it, but most wheel studs can be pushed out with some great force, then you put the new stud in. They can be installed using a old lug nut and some form of spacer to allow the lug nut to pull the new stud in, but the propper way is to remove the hub and have it pressed in using a hydraulic press. Since this is a rear tire, doubt it would be too hard, don't need to get into drive axles etc..

I would second the tire shop repair method though, unless you just enjoy doing those kind of things. The main reason I would go to the tire shop is because if you don't seat the stud all the way, driving it can cause it to seat further, thus making your lug nut loose, and then the wheel runs the risk of coming off. Had it happen on my boat trailer, not fun seeing one of your trailer wheels pass you at 70 miles per hour.

Thanks guys.
ag4ever-yeah, having your trailer wheels pass you would certainly get your attention!!
We are a bit short of $$$-Katrina-illness etc, so if possible this will be DIY. I will give Toyota a call-see how expensive it is.If it is under $100-I'll go that route, if not, then DIY it is.I have a buddy with a press, so that won't be a problem.I will use a genuine Toyota part-no 89 cent Autozone part. I learned that lesson long ago! There are LOTS of very low quality fasteners out there!!
The weather is suppose to improve tomorrow(rain, wind crummy lately).I'll jack it up and check it tomorrow.
I torque wrench checked the other four-they were 81- 97 lb-ft.It shouldn't have failed at 100 or 120 lbs-no way!!
Thanks,
Charlie

If money is real tight, then you can install them using the old lug nut technique, but it is not ideal.

If you have access to the press, by all means do it that way.

Not a hard job, just need to remove the rear hub, and I am not sure how that is done on a prius, let-alone a toyota.

Thanks all.
The local Toyota dealer wanted >$100 for it(couldn't actually pin him down on price-but >$100).
It took about 1 hour.I couldn't get the stud from the local guys(long story) so I got it from one of the local autozone (kelly, I think) type places. Not happy it isn't OEM, but...
FYI -for DIY types
1)I loosened the lug nuts, jacked it up-put a second jack under it with a spare wheel under the frame member just in case.
2)Take the wheel off.
3) take the emergency brake off.
4)Used an old would chisel to gently pry around the hub until the drum became loose.I PREMARKED THE DRUM VS THE HUB/STUDS-NOT SURE THIS WAS NECESSARY, BUT SEEMED LIKE A GOOD IDEA. I just scratched them with a screw driver.I'm not sure about the balance here, but better to do it.I actually scratched the tip of one of the studs, and the drum.
5)Took the drum off.
6) Tapped the protruding stud with a hammer-careful, you don't want to bend the hub. This is when it would have been nice to be able to press it out.If it isn't protruding, I would have used a punch.
7)Stud popped out pretty easily. Did have to disentangle it a bit from the shoes/springs etc.
8) Slip the new stud in place. This was a little tricky. You have to turn the hub, so you get the best approach from the rear. You also have to push one of the lower tension springs out of the way so you can fit a more than 1" long stud in from behind.Play with it a little,and you will find your way-took maybe 5 minutes of "playing".
9)Put about 3/4" of washers on the stud, and carefully pull it home. Use a torque wrench and check the length(against the other studs) frequently.Once you are very close-stop.The studs are all slightly different in protruding length-make it match the shortest one.
10) Put the drum back on-same position as before(mark it relative to the studs/hub.
Remount wheel-used torque wrench-to 75 lb ft. I brought the new stud to 75 lb, backed it off-repeated-repeated-just to make sure it was seated.
Took almost as long to write as to do.
Thanks,
Charlie.