Did my own oil change + tire roations today without ramps - GreenHybrid

CamelFilters · #1 (**permalink**) 07-03-2006, 09:23 AM

This is sort of a rugged explaination of what I did today, sorry about the lack of pictures, i dont have much time right now, maybe i'll update later.
Please do not attempt to do any of the following especially if you dont know what you're doing. I will not be held responsible for any bodilly injury. If you are a serious DIY person who gets the most satisfaction from doing these types of work on your own vehicles, good for you, please share some info on how to make things more safe for everyone who likes to work around their cars such as myself

Here's the steps involved without using ramps:

what i used:

1. A set of 2 good and reliable jacks (2 - 2 1/2 ton) and 1 jackstand
2. 22mm 1/2 drive adapter to remove tires
3. 14mm 3/8 drive adapter to remove drain plug
4. 1 1/2 inch drive ratchet breaker bar
5. 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch drive 5inch extensions
5. 3/8 ratchet
6. Oil drain pan
7. Oil container (I used a regular gasoline container)
8. 1/2 Drive torque wrench ( very important ) - tightening the tire lug nuts too tight will warp rotors.
9 Oil filter wrench (3/8inch drive compatible) must be used with 5inch extension to remove oil filter
10. 12V tire infator
11. Tire guage

11. Mobil 1 5W30
12. Toyota Prius Oil filter with crush washer
13. Oil Funnel

optional:
1. Electrical/battery operated impact wrench for faster loosening and attaching (but not tightening!) of lug nuts

I Made sure my car is on level ground and the parking (foot brake) brake is on. Also, before I started, I made sure my engine is warm or have been driven around for at least 10min to let the oil warm up for easy flow out of the drain pan.

Gather all your tools ( not all are shown)

I then loosened up the lug nuts on the front passenger side, Just loosened and not take off with a breaker bar using a 22mm adapter. The lug nut to the left of my breaker bar is a locking wheel nut.

I then jacked up the car on both sides, but i made sure the driver side is higher than the passenger, but the passenger's side front wheel is off the ground.

I then took off the tire and this is what it looks like, ( perhaps in the future if I have time I will also start a thread on how i take off the front brake pads and rotors

). Also, while the tire is off, i have the oportunity to check the brake lines (that hose attached to the brake caliper, i watched for any brake fluid leaking), brake rotor's thickness, steering joints (make sure they are not leaking) and check the rubber boots ( you can see it just above my jack stand, that long rod, make sure the ruffled rubber housings are intact and not leaking any kind of fluid or else, there is a problem with the steering. Finally, i also checked the shock absorbers.

Just to the right behind front passenger tire, there lies the drain plug, I just took my 3/8" drive with a 14mm bolt adapter and loosened it up after placing the drain pan just underneath it, I was also careful because the engine was hot.

There i was loosening it up while taking a picture

And there's the old black oil

I just waited for the oil to completely drain and start to just trickle down before replacing the drain plug back with a new crush washer.

There's the new crush washer i purchased from toyota and i made sure i cleaned the drain plug first before screwing them both back in.

There to the very left of the black housing I screwed the drain plug after tightening it back with my ratchet. Just to the front of the car (now looking from the front bumper) is where the oil filter is located (a little hard to see but it's that black cylindrically shaped object in the middle of the photo)

I just used this to rotate it out

. I'ts a 3/8" drive with a 5" extension and an oil filter wrench at the end. I was also aware that before the old filter came out, oil will pour out in a messy way and it can be very hot. luckilly i was not scalded because i only ran the car for 10min before starting this procedure, therefore, the oil was not hot at all. After i did that, i took the new oil filter and filled it up with new oil and lubricated the rubber gasket and screwed it back firmly and snug but not too tightly! ( or else I would be in trouble the next time; i wont be able to get it out).

I then took a clean container with level markings and filled it with oil on the 3L mark. I made sure i used a funnel to pour this into the engine or else there would be a big mess.

3L should bring the oil level at this amount.

The final steps involved rotating the tires.

Sorry i have no pictures right now.

while the car is jacked up on the passenger side, I lowered the jack on the driver side and brought it over to the passenger rear. There i loosened the rear lug nuts and then jacked up the car and rotated the front tire to the rear and vice versa. After bringing the car down, I made sure i tightened the lug nuts with a torque wrench at 84ft/lbs of torque. I then repeated this procedure to the driver side.

Then after, I used a my tire compressor in conjuction with my tire guage to manually change the psi in the front and rear at 44front and 42rear.

Finally, i drove the car for about 10 min around the block then brought it back to my driveway and observed for any oil leaks from both the drain plug and the oil filter.

thanks for reading.

gj

bwilson4web · #2 (**permalink**) 07-04-2006, 12:33 AM

Did you keep a sample for testing?
How far and long on that oil?

CamelFilters · #3 (**permalink**) 07-04-2006, 04:20 AM

hello bob,

i drove 6k mi on this oil and i knew it was time to change. i also knew that i should have done it sooner. i wasnt too concerned, however, because the old oil was synthetic Mobil 5W30. After changing the oil I noticed a signifcant gain in smoothness and acceleration. I think from now on i'll change the oil sooner every 3000 - 5000mi as what my peers recommending to me.

Now i'm thinking of changing the front brake pads to ceramic, I dont have any experience with this type of compound but i have read that they make the rotors last longer and produce little or no brake dust. Any comments on this would be appreciated.
thanks very much.

regards,

gj

bwilson4web · #4 (**permalink**) 07-04-2006, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamelFilters

i drove 6k mi on this oil and i knew it was time to change. i also knew that i should have done it sooner. i wasnt too concerned, however, because the old oil was synthetic Mobil 5W30. After changing the oil I noticed a signifcant gain in smoothness and acceleration. I think from now on i'll change the oil sooner every 3000 - 5000mi as what my peers recommending to me.

So that was your oil this winter too? The reason I ask is I suspect cold weather is especially harsh on oil but don't have any numbers, yet. I'll be doing my oil change next weekend when I'll also replace the ICE coolant. I'll also put in a Fumoto valve so I can do periodic oil samples.

Are you using a block heater?

How often do you clean / replace the air filters?

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamelFilters

Now i'm thinking of changing the front brake pads to ceramic, I dont have any experience with this type of compound but i have read that they make the rotors last longer and produce little or no brake dust. Any comments on this would be appreciated.. . .

I can't help you there. Given how long the regular pads last, I probably won't be going there unless some of my hill testing reveals I need a higher temperature margin. Right now, I haven't found a hill in N. Alabama that "B" mode can't handle better than the brakes. Heck, "B" mode brings me down to 25 mph on a 7% grade after about a mile. I have to cycle between "B" and "D" to maintain traffic speeds.

BTW, great photos! That would be an excellent DYI article . . .

Bob Wilson

CamelFilters · #5 (**permalink**) 07-04-2006, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwilson4web

So that was your oil this winter too? The reason I ask is I suspect cold weather is especially harsh on oil but don't have any numbers, yet. I'll be doing my oil change next weekend when I'll also replace the ICE coolant. I'll also put in a Fumoto valve so I can do periodic oil samples.

Are you using a block heater?

How often do you clean / replace the air filters?

I can't help you there. Given how long the regular pads last, I probably won't be going there unless some of my hill testing reveals I need a higher temperature margin. Right now, I haven't found a hill in N. Alabama that "B" mode can't handle better than the brakes. Heck, "B" mode brings me down to 25 mph on a 7% grade after about a mile. I have to cycle between "B" and "D" to maintain traffic speeds.

BTW, great photos! That would be an excellent DYI article . . .

Bob Wilson

Actually, I purchased my car in march, and after recieving the car i immediately changed the oil to synthetic after 2000mi; that would be 1 month after i purchased it. So the oil which i changed yesterday was in my car for about 3 months; i drove 6000mi with this oil, and i would say that the oil has not really been exposed to any cold weather.

regarding the block heater, i dont have one currently installed but i'm considering it for the winter time.

regarding air filters, i change both the cabin and the engine air filters every 5000mi. so mine are next due in about a month. I think toyota charges $40 to have just one of them changed, but i can do both myself for the same price. I should post pictures to show how easy it is to change them

finally, regarding brakes, thanks for the advice, i'll probaly buy a set of ceramics just to see how they are, it doesnt hurt to try; if it doesnt go well i can always switch the pads back to original. the brake pads and rotors for this car are very easy to take apart and put back together compared to my other car which is why i really love this car over the other.

regards,

gj