Hi All:
___Well, lets start by the threads intentions.
Driving Technique Summary. This isn’t about starting it up, checking your mirrors, engaging R, pulling into the street after looking both ways, stopping, placing the car in D, and stepping on the Accelerator. etc., it is about maximizing FE in an HCH-II. If it were anything else, you wouldn’t see details on P&G’s, EV/Mode Glides, or taking down the A/C compressor.
___With that out of the way, lets get going.
___Tulip, the only item I use the Tach is for keeping RPM’s below 2,000 RPM under almost all circumstances. If you are using more ICE for faster accelerations, you are not achieving max FE out of the hole or getting to steady state possibly. Use the tach to minimize RPM’s and you are set in every Hybrid and non-hybrid I have ever driven but my experience is only as good as my personal past performance in whatever I have driven. ElanC, that was my shot across your bow.
___BlueCivicHybrid, running your tank low will not harm your Fuel pump in the least. You will get better calculated accuracy on a tank basis if you do run your HCH-II down to a few miles below the low fuel light. Do not worry about 1,000 mile tanks although we will see those soon enough. That 06 HCH-II’s PZEV tank isn’t really large enough to nail the 1,000 milers for all but the best HCH-II pilot pulling out all the stops … Just worry about maximizing your HCH-II’s FE no matter where and when it’s driven. You have shown us some excellent segments to date and I for one have very high hopes for you given your age.
___NASAngineer, Hot_Georgia_2004 has hills similar to the outskirts of San Francisco in and around Atlanta. Although I did not believe it in the past, hills do help ones FE when pushing tanks. The Pittsburgh event skirting the Ohio River showed me first hand and right between the eyes that hilly terrain can be used with greater advantage then the flatlands with any number of techniques. It sounds like you are holding the technique(s) just fine but you cannot expect high FE at 70 miles per hour unfortunately. Here is a tip for both you and Bluecivichybrid. When you are in that lower speed glide at or just below the limits, get your (2) right tires on the white line! Do not play games with this. You don’t own the road just as nobody else does either but if you are hanging in the far right on the white line, those behind you will perceive you are traveling slower then them and move out to pass far sooner without crawling up your tailpipe or worse yet, causing a traffic tie up or accident. This is a great technique vs. sitting in the middle of the far right lane. I mean it! Move over to the far right side of the far right lane as you are both experimenting with the slower speed portions of your glides. I would also like to hear that you are looking ahead 2 + stop signs, lights, or intersections out
___Both of you might consider some of the following:
The Horror, the absolute horror …
___As for cruise, it may work for some but it will not make the HCH-II a valedictorian for all but the absolute best hypermilers. I have always killed cruise with ANY rising or falling roadway. If the roads you are traveling are that flat, you have a lot of options other then cruise to rely on.
___P&G at speeds of 75 miles per hour? You are fast approaching the aero limits of the P&G technique. The Glide is the key and a 75 to 60 miles per hour decel is to fast for the technique to do much good imho. In a LS P&G, you can easily double and even triple EPA highway in just about anything. In a HS (45 – 60 to 65 miles per hour) P&G, you are talking about 10 - 40% increase depending on how you can terrain follow using DWL and D-FAS’/EV-Glide if available. 60 to 75 miles per hour? You may not be gaining much if anything at all??? These 50 mpg tanks just don’t show anything from a car rated for 50 mpg’s. It doesn’t matter that it is colder or your traffic conditions are not conducive to high FE. Hitting the EPA isn’t anything more then just driving like most other conservative drivers do. The rest do not give a **** about their FE other then when they actually see how much it costs them at the pump
___Let us get into what you are going to have to do to bring your HCH-II up to higher speeds without your FE getting killed on the way. Your HCH-II has to be facing out of your drive or parking spot from dead cold. I do not care if you have to pull it in the night before and turn it around by pushing it Fred Flintstone style, you must get that nose facing out and ready for the next days ordeal. If you have to use reverse at any time, you are not paying close enough attention to the parking lots or spots available for you to park. Again, if that ICE is running, you had better consider moving forward or all you are doing is wasting gas. A cold ICE means extremely rich mixtures, Open Loop ops, backed off timing, and high RPM’s. All 4 are a recipe for a FE DISASTER at best! Ok, you know about Face Out. If you have a down slope on your drive or roadway, why is your car idling to pull you out into your street? Just boot it up (not started) and coast into the street. You did pay attention that all was clear before you booted up and began moving, right? You start your car and you are instantly moving forward. No ifs, ands, or buts. If something gets in your way, you shut the car down. Even if you think something will be in the way by the time you get there, you shut it down now and if the obstacle clears, good. If it doesn’t, you saved fuel on your way to a warmed up ICE highway cruise. Now you are in the street heading towards the first stop sign. Let that backed off advance, open looped ops, high RPM, and rich mixture accelerate your HCH-II all on its own. You should not have to touch the pedal much at all. If you are going to be burning fuel like there is an ocean of it, you may as well be getting some distance from it. About that first stop sign down the block … You shut the car off and coast into it. That high revving, abysmal FE receiving ICE is not doing anything but warming up the CAT’s and coolant on your dime. Screw that. Shut the thing down and FAS into that stop sign down the block. Unless its 0 degrees F and you just started her up, you have to consider a FAS anytime you are running around town or around your subdivision if she is not warmed up. So you are sitting at that first stop sign and all looks clear in both directions … Restart and perform the same into the next light, sign, obstacle, or whatever. You should now be close to LS P&G territory although your hybrid’s automatic tools may or may not work just yet. Time for our first forced LS P&G via FAS when we hit the first non-suburban arterial street. Take her up to 30 miles per hour and FAS back down to 20 miles per hour. From that 20 miles per hour, pulse her back up to 35 miles per hour. Glide in a FAS back down to 25 miles per hour. The next pulse takes you up to 40 - 45 miles per hour and you FAS again back down to 30 miles per hour. We should by now see the temp gauge just beginning to pull off the bottom. We need about another mile or so of either LS P&G using FAS’ or a slow but steady cruise using DWL until she is fully warmed up. At least she is not running open loop, not running with a backed off advance, her idle has slowed somewhat although she still may be running a little rich. Just a few more blocks and you are ready for highway travel … This is just one way to get that cold ICE up to temp without getting killed. I hope you guys can find even more in your own daily grinds.
___If anyone thinks this is crazy then look at a reset Trip A or B from your driveway through the first mile of travel. If some consider low to mid 20’s and 30’s from a $24,000 hybrid good FE, they are the ones that are crazy. Remember there is this guy driving a Ford Ranger P/U loaded with 300 - 400 #’s of landscape garbage that is kicking your @$$ over that first mile or two in 0 – 20 degree temps and he paid < $10K for his truck brand new! Imagine that, some guy in a landscape truck is receiving better FE than a brand new 06 HCH-II that you just spent a healthy $24,000 + for! I hope many of you see my point now. This mid 20’s and 30’s crap during warm up is to ugly for words and you simply have to get yourself up and beyond that kind of FE even when starting out from dead cold … I know some have roadways, local commutes, whatever that do not allow this kind of activity. If you do not when you normally leave for work, consider leaving sooner, taking a different way out of your subdivision, or heaven forbid drive through another subdivision before entering the arterial or highway. If you live in the country, you have no traffic. Forcing a P&G using FAS’ until she is warmed up is a great alternative to horrid FE in that first mile or two and then you can begin using all the HCH-II’s tools as she comes equipped.
___And about that setup again … No OEM Moly loaded goo in the HCH-II after 3 - 5,000 miles. That stuff needs to be replaced with 0W-20 Mobil1. If anyone has the details on the Honda 0W-20, feel free to post it but right now, Mobil1 0W-20 works and it works great! Tire pressures … If you wanted a more comfortable rider, you might have considered a non-hybrid Camry. Great highway ride but its FE stinks. Once you get used to high pressures, you will wonder why you were running on sand all these years. Even simple turn in on 32 # tires drives me nuts as I am wallowing from corner to corner wondering when the beads are going to let loose
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Originally Posted by philmcneal
Ya for straight line hwy I think having CC on is just more efficient and worth the hardly extra effort P&G forces you to be in.
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___LS and HS P&G’s are an effort and you do not have to use them. You don’t have to use any types of drafts, DWL, or DWB either. If you want truly strive to achieve less then what the EPA says your automobile is worth, you do not have to put any effort into your driving technique at all! Just drive like most others with one foot on the gas and one on the brake and using them almost simultaneously
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Originally Posted by dshelman
I was also dismayed  by the response and made much more hesitant to post any impressions I have had regarding my new HCH-II. I'm a real-world driver, and look for real-world tips. Hypermiling is kinda fun, but I simply don't have the attention span to do it consistently. I gave up riding Harleys because of my ADD, for Christ's sake! 
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___Dshelman, because it appears that you have little experience, I am sorry to burst your bubble. If you are a real world driver, your FE will speak for itself? If you are looking for more, this is just one of many threads here at GH you want to read, comprehend, practice, and use AFTER THE FACTS on the HCH-II have been disseminated. Hypermiling is simply beating the EPA combined. Anyone can do that in just about anything without paying any attention whatsoever. If you want to receive what your HCH-II is really worth in the real world given the tools you have at your fingertips, use them! Your tank notes are showing a budding interest but remember, there is this guy driving a PZEV Accord at speeds of 45 - 75 miles per hour other then while sitting going nowhere in traffic jams in Chicago that is doing better. He simply places a few more seconds of effort into every mile is all and cannot stand to see the HCH-II driven into mediocrity given it is the new car highlight of the year so far.
___Now please let me see some stuff from the HCH-II pilots! There are valedictorian qaul’ed hypermilers in Prius II’s, FEH’s, AH’s and HCH-I’s right off the lot (although most did have warmer temperatures) but I do not see the HCH-II owners being represented in that short list just yet. The various techniques are posted. Now lets start using them and see how they work!
___Good Luck
___Wayne R. Gerdes