Hi All:

___A reboot takes the ignition switch from Ignition I to Ignition II. A Forced Autostop (FAS) has you shift to neutral, turn the ICE off (Ignition II to Ignition I), reboot the electronics (Ignition I to Ignition II), and coast down to a lower target speed. After you have coasted down to your new target speed or a stop, restart the ICE (Ignition II to Ignition III momentarily which starts the car and the key reverts back to Ignition II), place the transmission in the appropriate gear to speed match, and re-accelerate back to a new higher speed or maintain the new lower one. Just like a regular autostop whose conditions were not met (to low a coolant or air intake temp, to high a speed, not enough differential between the first AS and your current actual speed, AC not in Econ, etc. …) but you have to force it because the AS logic has not been made up automatically. In the case of the Toyota’s (D to N) and non-hybrid’s (see above), a FAS is simply a FAS.

___Good Luck

___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net

OK, that makes a lot of sense. I'm going to try these things on the way to work tomorrow. I'll let you know if I have any other questions. Thanks for the help!

I find that doing this more than once or twice drains my battery and causes a forced recharge situation.

Does this happen to you guys?

I think using a reboot, as appropriate, is the most important point.

If I have one bar on my battery, I will use the hill as a battery regeneration run rather than a dead stick run. Or, I might kick it into gear near the bottom of the hill to strip off speed if I am in a speed sensitive zone or where the speed coming off a hill is far too high for the conditions.

Reboot is a great tool, but must be used with safety and logic in mind

-Charlie...

Hi Guys:

___It would take at least 5 to 10 FAS’ in the Insight to see a drop from 19 bars to even 18 bars and I used it a lot. Why is your SoC so low to begin with?

___Good Luck

___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net

That's a good question and one I'm still tinkering with myself after 4 months of driving my HCH. I'd very much like to figure out better ways to keep my battery near capped...I don't drive aggressively unless absolutley necessary, i.e. high speed merges, etc., so I don't know why keeping my IMA high is something I need to consciously do. Reboot (or neutral for that matter) certainly will eat up time you may possibly spend recharging, but I always figured the higher speed the car can maintain for an extended time as opposed to drive makes up for the FE, let alone the lowered RPMs.

Starting doing this today and it killed my charge too, the result being a forced charge. Is this really helping my mpg if I have to go to a foreced recharge?

I take my current battery level into consideration when making the decision whether to use a hill to reboot or recharge. If my battery is below 1/2, I will let off the accelerator and let the battery charge. Otherwise I will reboot. This way, I avoid depleting the battery to the point where forced recharge is necessary.

hm that's unfortunate... I was hoping what exel said was true and you can FAS quite a few times before draining one "pip" from the battery meter. Well I'm more interested in the Civic than the Insight but I guess my logic is it takes more power to start up a 4cylinder than a 3 ;O

and how long do you have to regen to get a pip back? I'm curious if you were to follow the same instructions as trying to glide with no fuel mode (as seen in the hch06) in the hch I then what would the results would be?

i got around 20 km a liter when i drove a civic 5 spd using advanced hypermiler techniques
and now I drive a salvage nwh20 prius that gets almost to 25 km/l with 195,000 km to date.

Ok, correct me if I'm wrong. But I've got a HCH II, with ICE cutoff, is that not pretty much the SAME thing as a FAS ???? I mean, its the safer version of it no ????