Most likely composed of highly refined snake oil...I wonder if they also have a large tract of low Florida land for sale??

 

Glad to hear that.

 

I thought I would chime in on this question since I've been using SynLube now for over 7 years including 5 years on my present ride, a 2004 Ford Ranger w/4WD and 4.0L engine. I joined this forum BTW, because I'm eventually going to get a hybrid and I want to know more about them.

Of course, I also love to put actual experience up against the silly comments about snake oil that come like crab grass during the summer and are about as valuable.

SynLube is an oil that is much different from other oils. I frankly doubt that Blackstone is capable of a proper evaluation. They're OK for stuff you might find at Wally World but SynLube is far more sophisticated. The only person I consider qualified to test the oil is Terry Dyson. I've bought a couple of oil analysis kits from him though I haven't had time to submit the samples.

I now have almost 42K miles on the SynLube I installed in January, 2004 @ 780 miles. At the rate I'm going, I won't have to change the oil until 2019. Because the oil's components are inert, they don't form the byproducts that deteriorate oil performance.

Oil consumption has been very low during this time at somewhere between 4 and 8 ounces. Fuel consumption is over 19.4 MPG during that time for a mix of driving that's about 60% light city/suburban driving.

I have replaced the plugs several times during my five years looking for better plugs. I've finally settled on E3s and all my inspections have indicated plugs that have very low amounts of deposits. If the SynLube had deteriorated, very likely, the plugs would have given me some indication.

The tailpipe is always a good indicator of how the engine's doing. I installed a catback system on the vehicle at about 4500 miles. To date, there is no accumulation of carbon at all as there is on my mother's Toyota Camry indicating the combustion is very complete.

It is a mistake to evaluate SynLube according to the standards of a conventional oil, especially the viscosity of the oil. For many, alarms go off when they hear the oil is a 5W50 or 0W40 oil when the OEM recommends a 5W20 or 0W20 oil. In actuality, SynLube does a far better job of protection than these oils do whether it be freezing or brutally hot.

The thin viscosity oils are a compromise. If you think about it, they recommend a thin oil because they want oil to start circulating at once because engines these days need the oil to circulate quickly, much more quickly in fact, than the older OHV engines. That's because FI engines start more quickly, and, of course, OHC engines have critical bearing surfaces as far away from the oil as possible. 90% of wear to an engine occurs during a cold start according to the conventional wisdom.

The OEMs like Honda made a decision that they would rather use a thin conventional oil that drains off parts more quickly but pumps faster than a higher viscosity oil that drains more slowly but begins pumping more slowly as well. Of course to get this "improvement", they are willing to permit a higher rate of engine wear when the engine reaches normal operating temperature because a 20 weight oil at 100C is only effectively about 7 weight and that's not thick enough to eliminate all metal-to-metal contact.

In contrast SynLube's 3 solid lubricants are quickly embossed or through polarity attracted to the bearing surfaces never permits a dry lubrication condition. I've had a number of experiences where I've had the Ranger sitting for 2 weeks or more and started the engine up on a cold morning. Never have I heard anything unusual during these starts.

The stuff works. The sooner one converts, the more valuable the SynLube is. Many still think modern engines have a break-in period. Not any longer. Modern emissions standards require engines to be clean coming from the factory so tolerances are much tighter. In my last three rides, I installed SynLube at or before 1271 miles because I wanted to maintain the tight tolerances. Never did I experience a problem like oil-burning because the rings hadn't seated. Rings seat very quickly in modern engines.

As far as the comments about the CVT transmissions go. I think SynLube is correct. A couple of years ago, Ford introduced a CVT transmission and it quickly disappeared. In a discussion of the 2010 hybrid Fusion, I read that Ford thinks they've got the problems fixed and will use a CVT once again. I suspect he's right about the others as well. I have corresponded with Miro Kefurt a number of times. He isn't afraid to repeat what he hears from his contacts in the industry and I've never felt mislead.

Of course, it is like being splashed with cold water to have a car that you love only to be told it doesn't have the reliability that you've been told to expect. I sure hope Miro is wrong about the Honda CVT but anyone who dismisses his comments may be shortchanging themselves.

 

Oil does not wear out. The best oils are the ones that get dirty picking up the stuff you do not want in your engine. ( water, soot, gas ... ). You have to get rid of the bad stuff or it makes sludge and prematurely wears out you engine.

I change my filter every oil change. The worst oils on the market are those that look clean after 1000 miles. Folks, that oil is not working if it is not getting dirty.

If you follow the Mileage Minder, any oil that bears the right seal ( like in the owners manual ) and is 0w 20 will let your engine run without any noticeable wear ( provided you did not get a defective engine part ).

I have 2 co-workers that have 1991 Honda Accords - one ran Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles per oil change, the other used Quaker State at the mileage suggested oil changes - the both have over 290,000 miles. the cars are falling apart. seats are wore out, the headlights are milky white, the door rubber is falling off, but no engine problems and no real difference in gas mileage either, ( they are both looking at new Honda's but they probably will not get identical cars this time. One likes the Accord the other the Fit ) and the 300,000 mile engine work ( timing belt, water pump and valve adjustment ) is more than 2x what the car is worth.

If I could find a synthetic blend 0w 20 that meet the spec, I would use it.
Only Honda 0w-20 and Mobil 1 0w-20 meet the Honda requirement, So I use Mobil 1 from Walmart.

 

They are now based in Canada but the company was in USA originally, a small online search will tell you they cannot conduct business in Nevada ,their business license is Permanently Revoke.

 

The report that Synlube's business license has been revoked is not true. He is still at same address he's had since 1989.

A little research will also reveal that there was a company that used the SynLube name illegally in the same city but with a different address. The real SynLube sued them and forced them to close.

 

Yes miro continue with your lie,you have been expose ,in these day in age with Internet your business will be harder to run....stop scamming people and find a real job.

 

Honestly, you are simply a mess. I am not Miro Kefurt. If you keep up with this, I will see what the administrator has to say about your comments.

 

Just a piece of advice,as long you do proper transmission maintenance,you can put easily way more miles then that on your transmission.The issue was coming from the torque converter and Honda did offer compensation for people out of warranty.Keep a close eye on it,clean the magnetic drain plug they dont have filter Use the oem fluid,since you need the proper frictional additive in the oil .I just suggest to change it more often .
If your dealer dont want to fix it call Honda directly and ask for a goodwill repair,did use this way a couple of time with Chrysler and always work since my claim where reasonable.

 

Just thought I'd chime in.

For years, this Houckster claimed that he was the owner of Synlube on his profile at bobistheoilguy. Up until last month when he changed it.

To wit:

for Houckster
Member #: 939
Title:
Total Posts: 9
Registered on: 01/28/03 08:00 PM

Add to UBB Buddies | Ignore this user | Add to Watched Users | Show User's Posts


About Me
Occupation: Owner of SynLubes4Life
Hobbies: cars, bicycles, reading, photography
Location: Reno, NV

This was posted on the noria site.

In addition, this Miro Kefurt uses several mail drops and has no known street address. According to the State of Nevada, Synlube's business license has been permanently revoked, and has since been folded into the Mirox Corporation. Address unknown.

He claims that he operates out of Mercury, Nevada. Which is a base camp owned by the Dept of Energy.

You can read the email sent from the DoE about this yourself. Posted on both Bitog and Noria.

Mercury serves as the "base camp" for operations of the National Nuclear Security Administration's Nevada Test Site. As such Mercury is not open to the general public. Further, there are no private businesses operating within Mercury or the Nevada Test Site. There is not a "Mirox Corporation" operating a business in Mercury or the Nevada Test Site.
I hope this answers your question. If you have further questions please feel free to contact me either by email or the phone numbers listed below my signature block.

Darwin J. Morgan, Director
Office of Public Affairs
NNSA-Nevada Site Office
702-295-1755 (O)
702-630-0120 (C)
702-794-6255 (P)

So, use this stuff at your own risk.