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Originally Posted by tbaleno
I use the instantanious FE gauge. I only use the tach to make sure I'm not reving too much. 2100 is what I set as my max and thats only while accelerating. I will drive around 1500rpm and slowly loose speed and then accelerate at 2100-2300 rpm to get back up to speed.
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I think this is key. While accelerating, especially from a stop, the tachometer is more useful than the FCD, because the FCD has fairly low resolution, and a slow refresh rate so it's difficult to pick up sudden changes. A few bars on the FCD at 1800RPM and holding vs 2200RPM and rising is a big difference that might not show up right away on the FCD. However, when cruising, a little bit of feathering makes a much more noticable difference on the FCD than the tach.
Another situation where the tach can be nice for the truly obsessive is for faster N-coasts, such as on surface streets with ~50mph limits on a gradual decline, where it is nice to let the tach settle into the highest gear it's willing to go, then go into neutral and maintain speed with the engine at idle, then re-engage at just the right level for a perfectly smooth re-engagement.