Thanks for the detailed response Dave.
Your Civic quotes are not accurate as you are comparing a bare-bones trim level automobile to a fully loaded one.
Use your same link, choose the HCH's next lower model the EX, build the car as well as possible the the HCH and see about $1K difference. Last month my dealer had lots of nicely equipped EX's from $19,500 to around $23. Yes there were also much cheaper, less equipped ones available too. There are still some things that are only available on the HCH and not on the conventional models.
This is like saying the base Ford Taurus at $21,500 is the exact same car as its better sister the Mercury Sable with a few options added around $25,500.
Guess we'll just have to dissagree that the FCD is a great tool to use.
I hate the FCD on our Grand Caravan. It's part of the center roof console, out of line of sight, slow to update and wildly inaccurate.
Honda's system is much more functional as a tool.
I was also concerned about the advancement of technology back in the 1970's when mechanical points were replaced by solid state devices, the trusty carburator was phased out for injectors, ESC and the expensive, mysterious ECU appeared in every new car. If the ESC system is vastly more expensive than a simple step-up coil with points of yesteryear should we all still be adjusting point gaps? How about the electronic ODO?
There were alot of hypothetical situations to be made then as well, but in reality look how much better the automobile has become.
Should we have stopped all these advancements at the marketplace because they have more parts and parts can fail?
Back to batteries again.
EPA does not classify NiMH batteries as hazardous. Period.
Your quoted article is aged 4 years and battery technology regularly advances.
HEV NimH batteries are not the same as the AA, C and D:
http://www.edn.com/article/CA56654
Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you're saying that just because it has a battery the car is inherently defective to a purchaser as no one knows the actual battery condition.
It seems like you may not be aware that the SOC indicator is not a voltage or amperage meter at all. The car routinely polls its conditon, SOC, temperature, past measurements and a whole host of readings and outputs the correct condition displayed on the dash. A fresh restart, drive it or wait makes no difference to the display.
Your scenario of selling the car quickly to an unsuspecting buyer while the battery indicator shows good for the moment doesn't hold water. I'm also not sure if you're aware of this but Honda's system can still be driven with a flat HEV battery.
If you're a do-it yourselfer it would cost around $900 in parts
http://www.peve.panasonic.co.jp/catalog/e_maru.html
The latest Honda quote for full pack replacement last fall was $2,100 including labor.
I try to keep my cars for 10 years and at that time I'll have over 320,000 miles.
My battery warranty ends at 10 yr/150K. If the pack goes bad at...say 200K I'll likely begin a search for good, warrantied used pack or any new aftermarket ones that will likely bridge the expensive OEM gap.
If all else fails I'll just drive the car as it is and still get at least the EPA estimate.
I view used car inspections similar to home inspectors, as the two are the largest typical family expenditures.
I wouldn't hire a cheaper home inspector who's experience is farm buildings, and wouldn't take a hybrid car to the corner mechanic without hybrid experience.
That same corner mechanic must eventually update his training to the new technology as I wouldn't have my fuel injected, disk brake car inspected by a mechanic who only knows carburators and drums.
BTW, you are incorrect on the typical flickering surge protector light as it is only a neon indicator that flickers when one electrode can't pass enough current anymore and has nothing to do with the level of protection. It's only an "on" indicator.
The actual protection is provided by one or a combination of diode clamps, shunts, metal oxide varistors and spark gaps. If the clamps or varistors go bad (Blown) the mains fuse will open or the circuit breaker will trip. If you plug in a blown protector it will create a nasty spark before the breaker trips. I've replaced countless of these flickering/dead pilot lamps in 1950's -60's radios & tape decks.

-Steve