Good thought, Bob.

61.5mpg lifetime - 82mpg in recent months

Best Run >
www.cleanmpg.com

"fanatic" is what the lazy call the dedicated

That's what we did when we first used a regular 3.5" HDD in a car computer. 2 weeks of running the K-Car over the bumpiest roads and train track "level" crossings we could find. Scanning for errors every night found no problems with the HDD, so we figured it was good to go. It lasted about 3 years.

The only flaw with this kind of testing is that it doesn't take into account accumulative damage, but that's going to be hard to test, short of doing a real bench test.

2001 Prius Photos       2005 Prius Photos
1992 Mitsubishi Delica Diesel-WVO Hybrid Photos

I've been wondering about this for a long time now. It seems that if it up to Honda you never just replace the battery. I wonder if all the parts are really bad or if they are just too lazy to check them. I can't imagine all that stuff being bad as often as Honda says that it is.

I know that this is a little off of topic but, is there a way to "deep charge" or fix a bad cell in the IMA battery pack. I now with other types of batteries that have a large series of cell if on goes low the whole pack becomes low. With these batteries you can deep charge or deep cycle the battery to bring the damaged cell up to the level of the other cells in the pack.

There is simply not a large knowledge base on batteries. I'd love to simply pop out a D-cell and replace it....

61.5mpg lifetime - 82mpg in recent months

Best Run >
www.cleanmpg.com

"fanatic" is what the lazy call the dedicated

Here is a nice informative pdf file about Nickle Metal Hydrate batteries from Panosonic. A lot if it may not pertain to the hybrid's pack itself, which is constructed of NiMh batteries, but it could give use a better idea of temperature conditions, charging methods or the amount of chare we put on our hybrid vehicles. http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/...rgeMethods.pdf

so who here abuses their forced auto stop and still on their first battery? I know I would... it sounds easier than driving stick.

although a button would be really nice.

i got around 20 km a liter when i drove a civic 5 spd using advanced hypermiler techniques
and now I drive a salvage nwh20 prius that gets almost to 25 km/l with 195,000 km to date.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin_psx ....The surge used to spin the engine from 0 to 2000 rpm (exiting autostop). It should not be any different than the usual power surge experienced during active assist....

I fully agree Kevin. The IMA is used to start the car regardless of whether you do it manually (i.e when you get in and turn the key) or if the car comes out of auto-stop when you release the brake. Why would there be more of a surge? Maybe a more frequent surge, because you’re restarting the ICE more often.



But protection of the battery (when too hot or too cold) is only one reason Auto stop is limited. Honda has designed the auto-stop to activate when a number of conditions are met. For the sake of this discussion I will assume we all already know what those are. Because I have only had the car a short time and the temperature has been cool, so the one input that limits auto-stop from kicking in has been engine coolant and Catalytic converter temperature. When the engine is warm, it always auto-stops. While I am not a battery expert, I can see where a forced auto stop under certain battery conditions (too hot, etc) may cause premature failure, but repeated stopping and restarting of a cold engine, being lubricated with cold thicker oil will cause significant wear. In addition, the emissions from a vehicle with cool/cold Catalytic Converter are higher.

Larry
'06 Magnetic Pearl HCH #7264

Sorry to come in late into the conversation-- but how do you force an autostop? I know the circumstances when it will and will not turn on by itself, but I've never thought of making it turn off when it doesn't want to...