I didn't check my rate against a gasoline Accord, just the TL. I'm paying about $430 for 6 mos with USAA for slightly better than AZ minimums for full coverage. USAA does have a feature on their website to get a quote on auto policies, so you can always go in there and enter information for a gasoline version of your car to see how it compares. But if I remember right, you need a VIN to get a quote!

<Best Tank Economy!><Best Tank Endurance!>

USAA is charging me about $200 more every six months for my 2005 Accord Hybrid vs my 2000 Nissan Xterra (2 drivers). Value wise, the 2005 Accord Hybrid is worth 3 times what the blue book is on the Xterra, so I can see an increase. I just didn't expect that much. Maybe about $100 every 6 months.

Mine went down $300 a year from the '95 Explorer to the '06 FEH.

Anyway, there are, as mentioned a lot of factors at work, including location. When I moved six years ago, my insurance rates for the Explorer went down as well. Between the move and the new car, I'm paying almost $600 less than I was just six years ago for insurance. All for moving to a better neighborhood and getting a new hybrid car.

First 4WD Hypermiler

Have you read the FEH FAQ?

Live in Michigan? Let it be known in Michigan Roll Call

Read My Automotive Blog at Rich Rambles

not only that, but most insurance companies (in fact, all of them that I know of) do not vary rates that way --

drivers typically are rated by age, gender, and marital status (and that rating is then modified by one or more factors which may or may not include how many miles the driver drives, the "use" of the vehicle (commute, pleasure, business, etc.), whether the driver had driver training, has taken a safe driving course, is a "good student", etc.))

this rating is the major player in how much you're charged for "liability" coverages (bodily injury, property damage, personal injury protection or medical payments coverage); it also impacts how much you're charged for "physical damage" coverages (collision, comprehensive)

cars are typically rated by make & model year -- the starting point is typically the MSRP of the vehicle (i.e. a $30,000 BigGasGuzzler likely starts with the same rating factor as a $30,000 GasSipper), but the rating factors are changed based on the experience that the insurance company (and the industry as a whole) sees as the models mature

the car's rating has very little, if anything to do with the price you're charged for liability coverages, it is mainly used for physical damage coverages

some insurers, including the one for which I work, do discount/surcharge liability coverages based on make/model year -- if you're driving a "safer" car (think "if I'm in a crash in this car, my injuries will be minimal"), then you're charged a little less; if you're driving a "less safe" car you'll be charged a little more

of course, those factors are applied to base rates (prices) for different coverages, which can and usually do vary according to where the car is principally garaged (your home zip code)

I'm an actuary-in-training (can't really call myself an actuary until I finish all of the exams, and that will be a while) and I can certainly attest to that

the best advice I can offer: if price is the major factor in your choice of automobile insurance carrier, then you should shop around often -- at least once a year -- but also keep in mind that jumping from carrier to carrier too frequently can affect how you are *underwritten* (which is a completely different animal from how you are *rated*)

You shouldn't have, since it's not always true. In fact, I'd say it's usually not true when you're talking about SUVs vs small cars. It's more likely to be true when you're talking about minivans vs small cars.

Ask him for a quote. You don't need a VIN, just go back and say, "I'm thinking of buying a [year, make, model] or a [year, make, model] and insurance costs are going to be a factor in my buying decision. What will they cost me?"

Don't accept generalities, get a specific quote.

His statement may be true for specific comparisons, but I bet I can find a lot of cases where it's not.

I'm paying $434 this year for my 2003 HCH, full coverage ($100/$300), glass coverage, $50 deductible.

Shawn


Driven 14 miles each way to work, not garaged, multi-car discount, safe driver discount, no accidents or tickets in the past 3 years, age 34, male, 85367, Arizona, no kids, non smoker, vegan, short fingernails, avid photographer. Oh, I guess the last few don't have much relevance....

I've got no complaints about the insurance rates. It was the same price to insure a $20k HCH as it was to insure a $11k Toyota Echo.

My rate is higher than I'd choose but I suppose that may have something to do with a few speeding tix in cars past or the accident I had my first week back in the country when an EIGHTY-TWO year-old VISUALLY-IMPAIRED OUT-OF-TOWN woman hit me side-on during Super Bowl week here in Jax and I somehow get the fault. Loved that.

i'll admit from the start here i haven't read this entire thread. but here's my 2 cents.

at least for my prius, we pay about $90 a month for 100/300 coverage on just the prius, 1 ticket (his), multi car discount, no-accident discount, safety discounts and etc.

i wasn't paying for collision/comp on my last car (90 buick century, liability only), but we're not paying a whole lot more considering we have collision and comp on the prius.

i was told since the pri is made in japan and is still quite expensive to fix, it is slightly more expensive to insure. they don't account, however, for the fact that the sks system makes the car nearly IMPOSSIBLE to steal without a flatbed. and of course, they don't give a discount for that...

You're insurance company doesn't give an anti-theft discount on comprehensive coverage? I'm shocked.