The battery filter couldn't be easier. The engine filter is almost as easy. The cabin filter is much more work than either of the other two. It takes longer to take pictures than to change those two filters. You don't even need a single tool to change them.

The cabin filter requires a screwdriver and something to pry out the little plastic caps.

I'm about to include a brief write up in the first post of this thread....

 

This attachment is good for the '05, '06, '07 MY. Although the 2007MY filter is a different shape and different part no. as noted in other posts. From every post I've seen, Ford no longer (never did?) installs the Cabin Air filter at the factory.

 

Ford Motorcraft Hybrid battery filter is FP-51
2008-04-20hybridbatteryfordbox1.jpg?t=1208831050

 

My Store Bought BOSCH micron cabin filter #P3710 was $15.99.

For $42 ( cost me $40 2 years ago ) You can get a LIFETIME battery air filter.
( I think it was about the same price for a LIFETIME engine air filter too. )



Remember, the battery air filter is a low flow, low velocity, mainly a leaf and bug filter.
So while something of this quality is not required, for a little more cost, you'll never need to get another! Peace of mind and convienience is worth something! And no, no oil will get into the battery. #1 the filter placement is a long ways away, and #2 it is a low flow, low velocity air duct.

 

Thanks GPSMan1 for the K&N part #YA-1602-U. I bought one from Amazon for $35.22.

What really chaps my @$$ is that I just paid $285 for my 30K service at my dealer about 6 weeks ago. Just this afternoon I pulled my battery filter out to check it and it's filthy, caked with dust, dead bugs, and pine pollen buds. I think it may be the original. That'll be the end of dealership service for me and all their hoopla about only certified hybrid techs can work on the FEH. I can read the owner's manual and I know that filter should have been checked at 10K and 30K as well as changed at 20K. I'll be doing the routine maintenance from now on to save money and know it's actually been done. I've already changed the engine intake air filter to a K&N and I have them on my Bike and my wife's Explorer so I have the maintenance kit for them.

I can also read and follow the shop manual as I was trained in auto diagnostics, tune-up, emissions, electrical systems & a/c about 30 years ago. I've just been too busy to work on my own stuff until recently. The full 2 volume factory shop manual is going for about $55 on eBay. Knowledge is power!

 

Reminder- ( this was posted a long time ago )

When the YA-1602-U comes out of the box and is "slightly" too long, don't freak out.
This filter has a solid rubber "brim" on two sides.

Use a sharp knife ( I used a band saw ) and carefully trim the rubber to make the filter symmetrical, like in the photos I posed. Works like a charm.

P.S. I've checked mine, but have never felt the need to clean mine in 35,000 miles.
The batteries don't take much flow velocity, and unless you drive on dirt roads every day, you'll have a hard time "plugging" one of these.
-John

 

A bit of "whittle to fit" doesn't scare me. As a co-worker used to say when I worked on Slot Machines in Nevada, "Beat it to fit, paint it to match, call it a day." I can see that the air door opening just below this filter is smaller than the filter so coverage all the way out to the edges isn't necessary, as long as it doesn't rattle around in there.

I was installing the cabin filter today (never had one before I found this thread), that was easy. I even got to spray some Dakota Vent Refresh right down into the intake fan with the A/C on. I'd been having some sour smells coming from the vents after the A/C had been on and off a few times.

 

The pictures in the first post are unavailable now, any problems?

 

I just listed two Fram CA10170 engine air filters and two Fram CF10137 cabin air filters here if anyone is interested.

 

Anyone anyone.... voodoo economics....

hope they get fixed....