So I've been haveing the dealer do the changes while under warrenty; well now that's over so I'm thinkning DIY. I do my own on my '65 Falcon (easiest thing in the world) and can do it on my '00 5.4 Expedition; but hate that the filter is over the lower arm and gets oil everywhere.

So I have the traditional oil wrench (the metal band) and one that is like a C shape with adjustable part to adjust size. Is this all I need? (Saw a post about a special wrench available at autozone)

So it's like any other oil change right? Find the pan, drain the oil; remove the filter; but I guess mine is not a traditional spin on, so I keep the case & change the guts & O-ring. Replace, and refill with 5W-20 right?

Thanks for taking time to answer my basic question!

Bryan

 

Do not use that metal strap filter wrench on your canister filter, it will mess it up. Get one of the cap wrenches...Auto Zone sell them... the correct size is "B" (part number 25401) and it costs less than $5. There are two o-rings...the large one for the canister filter itself and a small one for the canister's drain plug. Everything else is as a traditional oil change...do NOT overfill. 5W-20 is the correct oil...get a synthetic blend or full synthetic.

 

Bryan,

I also have an 08FEH and do my own oil changes.

I would recommend getting the correct cap wrench as GatorJ mentioned. I think there is too much risk of damaging the cap if you try other methods.

As for the actual change process, you drain the majority of the oil the same way as you do on the Falcon, using the drain plug on the bottom of the engine/oil pan. I don't have to raise the vehicle, I do this on my back using an appropriate socket/wrench and rectangle "catch can".

The filter change can be a bit more messy if you do it my way. My way is to just remove the entire cap without using the smaller filter cap drain plug. I don't mind the oil that comes out around the filter cap over the chance that I might mess up the soft aluminum drain plug. Plus that's one less o-ring that you have to replace. If you do use the filter cap drain plug, there should be less spillage but you should replace the small o-ring. Your call.

Once you have the filter cap off, make sure to remove the old large 0-ring and replace with the new large o-ring (at the base of the filter cap threads). I usually give the new o-ring a bit of oil before installation using the tip of my finger (probably the same as you do on the canister filter o-ring on the Falcon). Remove the old filter and replace with the new one. I don't think there is a top or bottom on that type of filter.

I don't remember what the actual torque limit is when re-installing the cap but you really shouldn't have to hulk it down. It's pretty obvious when there are no more threads showing and the lip on the cap appears to be seated against the filter housing/engine block. Remeber this is a composite/plastic cap going into an aluminum block, the composite threads will strip before the block does.

There are other threads on which oil to use, I'll not dive into that discussion here other than to say that you should make sure that the oil you use meets/exceeds Ford Specs (as listed in the owners manual).

 

Thanks y'all. That is helpful. I think I have a cap style somewhere in the garage, will look for it first; but buy one if I can't find it/wrong size.

So drain like anything else; then possible drain the filter & replace the o-ring, or make a mess & replace the guts & big o-ring. (yes my dad taught me to always oil the ring on a filter, and to add oil to it before installing.) Got it.

I'll look it up; but the typical 5qt's?

I planned on getting Motocraft 5-20. Not looking to get into a discussion on what is 'best' I assume that's what ford has been putting in for 5 years.

PS I always get a laugh at the crap in skymall when I travel, this time it's an oil extractor; siphon pump to change your own oil via the dipstick. I suppose thats how most quick lube places do it; just don't see how that gets out all the old, particuliarly the 'heavy' stuff at the bottom of the pan (anything thats got metal in it, ie the whole reason your changing the oil in the first place right?!)
http://www.skymall.com/shopping/deta...d=102716746&c=

 

You won't really be able to pre-oil the filter element in the traditional fill-up-the-canister way but I guess you could dip it or pour some on the element before installation. I have not done that in the past for the non-canister filters just because it would probably be extra mess for little added benefit.

Since this is your first change, I would add oil until the middle of the fill lines on the dip stick, run the engine for a few minutes, left the engine sit for a few more minutes and then top off as needed. I seem to remember that what the book says is a little more than needed and it's much easier to add more oil than take it out (Maybe that's where the Skymall gadget would come in handy).

P.S. Agree with you on draining from the bottom and not through the dip stick, I like to let gravity work with me on getting some of the heavier debris out of the oil pan. I also like magnetized drain plugs where available but I haven't looked for one for the FEH yet. I do run them on my older vehicles.

 

So I got a filter wrench at wally (was already there shopping) Something like a fram 74-76mm. It fit the filter; but would not grip it, ie slips as you spin.

So I took it back, went to AZ, got the B 25401 wrench, looked the same; but hey it's supposed to be the correct fit. Well it's even looser than the Fram wrench!
Suggestions?

 

I have a Performance Tool Cap Filter Wrench (76MM, 14 Flutes) part number W54063. I can't remember which store it came from but it think it was O'Reilly Auto Parts.


Here's the manufacturer's page for the part.

Here's another one from the O'Reilly website that matches the specs.

 

Interesting... The Fram 74/76 fit, just wouldn't grip, the 76 'B' from AZ was just to big. So I finally (with a tip from another message on this board), reluctlently took a large pair of channel locks to it. Got it off!
Took it with me & the 'B' back to Az; none of the wrenches on the shelf fit!

So it's done this time... will I do it again & risk &*&^^ up the cap? I dunno yet; luckily that'll be a year from now & I'll have forgotten all of this!!!

If it wasn't for that filter cap, would have been a 10min job, no jacking needed! At least I know it got a chance to drain very well, oild was still warm, and plug was out for like 2 hours while I went back & forth!

Thanks for all the tips & help. At least know I know it's supposed to be like a good old fashioned oil change. (BTW when I search this thread next year, the drain plug is a 13mm )

I put in like 4qt and looks like the dip stick is at or just over max, does that seem right? Manual says 4.5qt cap.

 

I use a Performance Tool™ Cap Filter Wrench (76 mm, 14 flutes) part number W54106 by Wilmar Corporation.

I got mine from Advance Auto Parts.

 

Thanks for the lead...
I picked up one today after trying it on for size in the parking lot. Fits perfect, nice and tight. Got mine from Advance Auto.