I just finished installing the charger and running the wiring for the engine block heater. The hardest part was squeezing the charger into place in front of the windshield washer bottle neck. Gee I hope I attached it right. On the '07 I found a threaded stud and a ground wire with a nut holding it down, this was under two hoses. Based on the figuration of the bottom of the charger, one side of the flange is offset where a screw/bolt goes thru, I figured that this would rest on the ground wire nut, while the other side slide over the stud, then I had to find a nut to fit the threads. Once I figured out the wire and where it attaches the rest was easy. I didn't have time to take photos but the next time I am under the hood I will. I'll post them and maybe someone could tell me if I did everything right. I did not install the block plug as it was starting to get cold and my garage isn't heated. I wrapped the end of the connection that plugs into the plug with electrical tape to keep it clean and dry till I install the plug.

Now for my question. Can I still use the engine block heating system to heat the HV battery even though the engine plug connection is not connected to the plug?

 

Sounds like you did it right.
That is what I did.
I don't have any logical reason way you could not use one part without the other. We know you can use the block heater without the battery heater attached. I see no reason why you should not use the battery heater alone either.

2 hours of plug time is good if you are above freezing.
3 hours of plug time is good if you are in the teens and 20's.
4 hours of plug time is good if you are at 10 degrees or lower.

More than 4 hours and you get very little more heating, and just a higher electric bill! Good luck! -John

 

If you have a "kill a watt" device, you can check to see if your "setup" is drawing 75 watts or so. This is the draw for the hybrid battery heater.

 

I am getting ready to install the block heater on my (wife's) Escape Hybrid. I have researched all of these posts and pics. Many thanks to all for the info as the shop manual is silent on the block heater.

Some questions: Is is easier to get at the block plug to remove it, from the top, or from underneath the engine? Can you get a straight shot at this plug with a socket wrench and hex adapter or is a u-joint needed? Does anyone know the torque spec for tightening the block heater in the block when installing it?

Many thanks,
Bill Winney

2006 FEH, 41119 miles, 29 MPG overall

 

I was told by a Ford mechanic, when I picked up my Unit, that there is no torque spec. There is a telfon type additive on the threads of the plug. He said to just snug it down and check for leaks. If no leaks fine, if leaks snug a little more. He cautioned against over tightening the plug.

 

You need to lay on your back, and look up between the engine and the firewall. I used a 3/8" socket with the metric hex tool. Pretty easy. Coolant will leak out, but if you work REALLY fast, you'll only lose a pint. Shield your face, and don't do it on a hot engine!

Good luck!
-John

 

To all those who posted info on this installation many thanks. I did this today and it went really well. The info found here was good.

Had I been a Ford mechanic that does this repeatedly it would have been a 15 minute job, but when you do something the first time...

For reference I went over the top of the engine with little problem. Did not need to come up from below.

Again many thanks.

 

Located a page on the web that shows a torque spec for the Escape engine block heater.

This page is admittedly for the 09 engines. I believe that the blocks for the 2.3 L & 2.5L are likely the same block and so the torque spec is fine for the 2.3 L.

It is 177 in-lbs or 14.75 ft-lbs. I believe that this is based on the aluminum block as opposed to the brass of the block heater.

See attached page.

 

Can you put an engine block heater and a battery heater on a 2009 Escape Hybird

 

If you are referring to the 330V hybrid battery, No. That is because FORD made a change early in the 2008 model year and removed the connection to the hybrid battery heater. The photos of the hybrid battery with the wired connection to the 330V traction battery:

and a photo of the existing setup:


It might be possible to run a wire to your 330V traction battery as a modification but you are dealing with a possible warranty issue and who ever attempts such an act better known what they are doing.