You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I'll admit it. I was incorrect. I confused the MAX and ECON buttons.
For what it's worth here's what the '08 manual says about maximum cooling:
For maximum cooling performance:
•
Automatic operation:
1. Press AUTO for full automatic operation.
2. Do not override A/C or (recirculated air).
3. Set the temperature to 60°F (16°C).
Make sure ECON mode is deactivated.
•
Manual operation:
1. Select A/C.
2. Select or .
3. Select (recirculated air) to provide colder airflow.
4. Set the temperature to 60°F (16°C).
5. Set highest fan setting initially, then adjust to maintain comfort.
Make sure ECON mode is deactivated.
Also, I did some observation on my '08 FEH today. The exterior temp was reported as 90°F and I expect the humidity was very high since we just just finished a big thunder storm.
Here's the output temps with the system set to 60°F and ECON mode turned Off:
For reference, my '95 Mustang had the following numbers (sitting right beside the FEH):
Normal A/C: (Recirculate Off)
-Full Fan: 58.8°F
-3/4 Fan: 54.7°F
Max A/C: (Recirculate On)
-Full Fan: 38.3°F
-3/4 Fan: 37.7°F
Ford went to a automatic A/C system from a manual system in '08 and it does not have a maximum setting like the older model FEH. However, you should have an interior recirculate button which does the same as a Max button if your A/C temperature is turned to the lowest temperature setting. With the older manual system, it has a Max setting that automatically recirculates the air and keeps the engine ON with no EV. The Econ button also recirculates air from the interior, but it allows EV. The blend doors regulate how much warm air is mixed with A/C air by adjusting the temperature controls on both systems. The blends doors should prevent passing warm heater core coolant air from mixing in the coolest temperature settings on both systems.
Technically your right about the Max settings button, but the lowest temperature and recir need to be On when testing the ability of the A/C. On the automatic system you just set the digital temperature like you want it and go. The blower fans will also adjust in the automatic setting without manual control.
GaryG
I test drove a 2011 standard ICE I4 FEH over the weekend, and one of the things I noticed is that the A/C in the ICE version is in fact marked Max AC. Having never seen the Gen 2 hybrid, I don't know what the button is actually marked.
1. The hybrids 2005 to 2008 all behave the same, and those are where my expertise is.
2. There are two cooling loops, but one compressor. One compressor, but two evaporators. One evaporator for the dash, and one in the back for the battery.
3. If both front (dash) and rear (battery) loops are open at the same time, you rob Peter to pay Paul. It is just like opening two bathtubs in your house at the same time, the line pressure drops. So in a sense, the compressor is 'slightly' undersized.
4. The temperature drop is less when both loops are open.
5. The temperature drop is less when it is humid out (heat is generated when you condense water).
6. The temperature drop is less at lower engine RPM. (lower compressor rpm)
7. The MAX setting does not run the blower any faster, but it seems like it does because it goes into recirc mode, bypassing some duct work, and if installed, cabin air filter. Thus, there is less resistance to flow, and you get more cfm of air.
8. Like others have said, temperature drop is relative to fan speed. The faster it is moving, the less time it has to cool down.
I have a scan gauge. I can read battery evaporator temperature.
With a full freon charge:
If only the battery loop is open, I get 41 degrees.
If both loops are open, the battery loop evaporator is 48 or 49 degrees.
Clearly robbing Peter to pay Paul.
Also, I recently discovered with a hot battery pack, my engine Idle RPM is faster... by up to 600 RPM! Only if dash is in MAX setting. This discovery was new to me, but makes sense in retrospect.
If you have a full freon charge, and are aware of the above, and still do not have cold air, the blend door is highly suspect and is probably mixing or leaking in some hot air.
Hello Mr 'gpsman1', may be you can help me on those 2 things:
A) how to program my SG II to read the battery pack temperature (is the same battery pack evaporator?). These codes do not work for me: ‘074522A914’ ‘046285A90614’ ‘3008’ ‘00120001FE70’
B) question at the end of #2 on this other post: http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f...es-100f-27142/
Hello everybody, I own a 2008 FEH 2WD with 33K miles, no Nav. system. I live in El Salvador, Central America, the weather it’s about 70 to 90 during this part of the year. I have a ScanGauge II with the BTh, BTl (battery temp high and low) and the programming for DTC detection from the battery pack
Right now I am experiencing the same problem that ‘aleksey2001’ has posted: car works very fine in the morning –complete hybrid operation after engine warms up- but, once after the battery gets +100F it won’t go EV (on battery) mode but still have electrical assist; I connect the SG II and go around until reach the always get zero codes stored!
Following the ‘Billyk’ check list:
1- I have revised the operation of the MECS pump and it’s running normal; SG II shows MECS temp form 90 to 105 once the problem is present (colder in the morning). Do you think it’s failing? I don’t think so…
2- I cannot assure the air conditioning for the battery pack is working, with the problem present, the A/C lines are not cold nor condensed – I cannot see any trace of leaks. Cabin A/C is fair; yesterday I put the cabin A/C to 16F but it didn’t solve the problem. Does anybody know at which battery pack’s temperature starts this A/C to cool?
3- I dismantled the blend door actuator –even when no codes stored in my SC II; I disassembled it, cleaned it and reinstalled. When you take this apart, it goes to a middle position, once I put the switch to run, it closed the little door. Do you think it’s failing? I don’t think so…
4- Finally, I can hear the 2 fans running inside the battery pack, one time, I removed the little filter and put my finger inside the little door and I felt a lot of blowing air inside; again, no codes stored.
Well, I’ll try to do something else on the A/C and let you know about, but I have ‘heated’ the battery pack up to 109F and only the ‘parking outside all night’ can cool it. Any advice?
I installed a by-pass in my '05 FEH manual A/C system where the two heater hoses go into the heater core under the hood. I did not cut the original heater hoses so they could be reconnected during winter. I even used the same 2 original clamps to hook the factory heater hoses to the by-pass. Here are the parts I used to make the $12 by-pass:
1. 2 5/8" plastic heater elbows to make a U
2. 2 SS clamps to connect a short piece (2") of new 5/8" heater hose to the two elbows.
3. 2 5/8" rubber heater plugs to plug the male nipples on the heater core to keep it clean.
I bought everything from my local NAPA store and it hooks-up and reconnects in minutes. I brought a kit to hook a by-pass in Debbie Kates '05 FEH at the '07 Hybridfest and did it in minutes at the Fair with just a screwdriver and pair of pliers to expand the factory clamps.
GaryG
Did you drain the heater core? All of this makes sense to me, I'm just a bit concerned about uncirculated coolant sitting in the core for the next 5-6 months.
Did you drain the heater core? All of this makes sense to me, I'm just a bit concerned about uncirculated coolant sitting in the core for the next 5-6 months.
No, there was no need to drain the heater core because the coolant protects the core. I put plugs to seal the core with the coolant inside. I went at least two years like this until my wife wanted to use the heater when she drove the '05 FEH during winter here. I sold my '05 with the original heater core working just fine at 80,000 miles.
In '08, the system became an automatic A/C system, so I didn't disconnect the heater core in my '09 FEH.
I'd do it again in the manual A/C FEH, just like I did before!
Re: FEH air conditioning
