Part I: Background Information

1. Quick Glossary

FEH: Ford Escape Hybrid

ICE: Internal Combustion Vehicle (Gasoline Engine)

EV: Electric Vehicle (The vehicle is running without the combustion engine on electric power)

A/N: Audiophile/Navigation System Add-on

MPG: Miles Per Gallon

FE: Fuel Economy

FAS: Forced Auto Stop

Powerless Coast: Usually in L (Though it can be in D), getting the engines in an idle power setting, neither generating nor regenerating energy, allowing the vehicle to move forward on its own momentum

FWD: Front Wheel Drive

AWD/4WD: All/Four Wheel Drive. This is a continuous operation, no switches. It checks 200 times per second and adjust individual wheel power as needed. (Same thing)

CC: Cruise Control

Stealth Mode/Cloaked: EV mode

MM: Mercury Mariner

HV: High Voltage, as in High Voltage Battery

2. Do I plug it in?

NO! The vehicle uses a regenerative braking system to recharge the batteries. When you brake, you recharge your battery. In addition, the Internal Combustion Engine can recharge your battery.

3. Compared to a regular Escape, I lose power right?

No. While there is a slight horsepower difference between the two, this is virtually invisible. In fact, there may be times when an Escape Hybrid can outperform a conventional Escape.

4. Who Benefits? Who doesn’t?

While outside of hybrids, few people question their vehicular purchases as a return investment, it does seem to be a point of contention among hybrid and potential hybrid owners. That said, the people who see the greatest benefits to owning a hybrid are people who plan to own said vehicle for at least five years, tend to put a lot of miles on their vehicle, and are willing to relearn how to drive to maximize the hybrids capabilities will see the greatest benefit. People who are planning to lease the vehicle for a short term, don’t drive that much, and just want a method of driving from point A to point B as fast as the vehicle can move them regardless of the situation may not tap into the vehicles true potential, and may be better off with another vehicle. Of course, everyone also benefits from the cleanliness of the vehicle.

5. How green is it?

The Ford Escape Hybrid is a AT-PZEV, or Advanced Technology Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle, and it also produces as little as half the amount of carbon dioxide (CO2) – a harmless gas in terms of ground-level air quality but a primary "greenhouse gas" when it drifts into the Earth's upper atmosphere. An accumulation of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere is widely believed to be producing a global warming effect. CO2 and water vapor are produced in the clean combustion of any type of carbon-based fuel, so the only effective way to reduce a vehicle's CO2 emissions is to reduce the amount of fuel consumed. Fuel-efficient hybrid-electric vehicles can substantially reduce CO2 emissions. So pretty darn green. As joked at the Ford Dearborn Hybrid Experience, it’s clean enough you could suck on the emissions right from the tailpipe.

6. What kind of range can I expect?

Most people can get around 500 miles to a tank after the vehicle is broken in. This of course varies based on a number of variables, from wind and temperature to speed and driving style, and use 12-14 gallons when they fill up.

7. How much should I pay? What’s a good price?

That depends on a number of variables, including incentives and other promotions that may be going on that may effect your situation, though you should be able to avoid paying above sticker, regardless of what the salesperson says. Using www.fordvehicles.com may be a big help to you for finding the vehicle you want, and getting a good price.

8. Will I see a return on the investment?

It depends, but ask yourself this; are any of the other vehicles you’re considering going to be a return on your investment? If you own the vehicle, drive a lot of miles, drive it like a hybrid, and do your research, you can see a tremendous amount of savings, ($23,000 over the course of a decade) but this varies on a case by case basis. However, at the moment, we’re experiencing a unique moment in time, where hybrids are actually accumulating in value for the most part. While this probably won’t last, in a way, you could see a return (Or a far less depreciation) on your vehicle.

You can check out https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/fixed-costs-vs-variable-costs.3436.html download an excel spreadsheet to see if you’d come out ahead as well, if you wish. (Though you'll have to modify it a bit)

9. What about that battery?

The battery is safe, non-toxic, and has been designed to well outlive your vehicle. In their extreme testing labs, Ford still hasn’t had a battery die on them. Should anything happen, you are protected by a hybrid warranty (Which varies by state, but generally 8 years, 100,000 miles), and while we don’t know how much a replacement battery pack will cost, at the moment that doesn’t look to be a concern; unless you’re in an accident, you’ll probably never have to worry about the battery. (Which by the way, is 275 D cell batteries linked together.)

There have been rumors about rescue workers who won't rescue people trapped in hybrids, and how hybrid power lines make the vehicle unsafe in an accident. These are false. In the event of an accident, the battery disconnects, and the power lines aren't likely to be anywhere even remotely close to where cutting needs to take place to rescue you, and even if they were, they're clearly marked to let rescue workers know. You're more likely to die because of the gasoline or the air bag than the hybrid battery.

10. What kind of government help do I get? What about Insurance?

For people who buy a vehicle this year, they get a $2000 clean fuel burning deduction on their 1040 (See the IRS website for more info http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=150594,00.html http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/...107766,00.html) Also some states have rebates or other incentives as well.

Next year, it's $2600 (FWD), and $1950 (4WD) Credit for purchasing a FEH.

For insurance, check with your insurance company, the rates may do pretty much anything, including go down!

11. Why should I get the Ford Escape Hybrid rather than a regular Escape?

While the Ford Escape Hybrid is around $4000 more than a similarly equipped Escape, you could see as much as a $2000 savings in fuel each year, the superiority of being in the latest technology, the Tax rebate, being environmentally super sound, and all the benefits of the Escape, while being so much more so. Plus it’s one heck of a conversation piece. Ask yourself this, do you think gas prices are going to go down, or up over the lifetime of your next vehicle?

12. How does the hybrid technology work?

Rather than explain it myself, I'll refer to the websites, who have nice animations.

http://www.fordvehicles.com/escapehybrid/how/index.asp Fords site about how it works. (Though you may find that your FEH can go faster than 25 MPH in EV mode; up to 40 MPH, and that you may spend a great deal in hybrid mode, utilizing both energy sources for a maximum efficiency)

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/hybridtech.shtml has a great flash demonstratration on how hybrids work. (The FEH is a Full Hybrid)


13. What about heat and AC?

You don't have to worry about baking or freezing, despite what you may have heard or read.

While it is true in the normal AC and recirculated AC settings, when the engine is off, so is the air conditioner, there are other settings that keep the engine on and the AC running, if you so desire, though it will come at the cost of your fuel economy.

As for heat, well, you may be really quite surprised, as you get heat almost immediately, and a lot of it, even when the ICE is off.


14. What should I get?

Well, that depends on what you want, doesn’t it? Test drive and find out to make sure you like it. Try out the systems, and feel free to ask here. Statistically about half are AWD, 75% got the AC power outlet, 60%(?) got the A/N system, and green was the most popular color, blue was the least favorite, and the rest more or less tied.

Most people who got the A/N system are glad they did.

 

Part II: Driving the Escape Hybrid

1. Relearning to drive?

Many people assume (incorrectly) that hybrids are a magic bullet to fantastic fuel economy. This is false. While you will automatically receive better fuel economy in a hybrid than their conventional counterpart, if you take the time to relearn how to drive, you can make the hybrid technology really work for you, and your pocketbook.

2. How do I get better MPGs?

Plan your trip and your route. It sounds simple, almost remedial, but as I've been driving, I've learned that the slope of the road, the traffic flow, and other elements can play a big part in your mileage. Chose routes where you won't have to vary your speed much, and you're going downhill or over level roads as much as possible.

Don't dilly dally. When you start your car, put it into motion. Don't start the engine, then load her up, go back into the house, etc. Start up the engine and get driving. Couple as many of your errands together as possible, rather than going to three places on three different days, try to go to all three places in one day.

Don't be a leadfoot. Rabbit starting from a stop can eat away at the MPGs and squander a good opportunity for the battery to do some of the "heavy lifting" the engine does.

Don’t be a speed demon, going much above 65 tend to eat away at those MPGs.

Don't try to be an electric vehicle. EV mode is great, and it'll give you great MPGs, but that's then. That energy needs to be replenished, and it's most likely going to use the ICE to do it, causing you to get some terrible MPGs later. Use it wisely, and not excessively. It's a hybrid, and that's what makes it effective, when it's in hybrid mode. Now, that's not to say don't use EV mode, quite the contrary, you want to use it, in stop and go traffic, in parking lots, coming home, but don't try to do everything in EV mode all the time; you’re not going to plug it in when you get home. Remember, you're a hybrid, that's two power sources, don't be afraid to use gas once in a while.

Follow the two C's: Coasting and Cruising. Try to coast as much as possible. When you see a red light ahead, let off the pedal and coast all the way in, things like that. (Don't worry about the battery, it charges when you're really driving about, so lay off the brakes unless you need them, allow yourself to coast.) When you start off from a dead stop, use the EV to get you rolling (I generally get to 10-20 mph before the ICE comes on), and then use the hybrid drive to get you up to cruising speed; don't floor it and don't mosey, then do what you can to stay at that speed for as long as possible.

Don't rush to a red light. If you know the traffic pattern, and you know that you can't hit the next light red, why bother wasting all the fuel and energy rushing up to that stop? Take your time, and save your fuel.

Don't be afraid to be passed by traffic. When you're coasting up to a red light, you'll probably be passed. When you're letting EV mode to get you started, you'll probably be passed. If you're on an expressway, you'll probably want to use a right lane. You'll still get there, and you'll be a lot more fuel efficient getting there.

Use Cruise Control on level surfaces, and manually control your speed in hilly areas. Ford engineers were unable to beat the FE that the Cruise Control in tests on flat roads, but were better off taking control themselves when it came to steep hills, as the CC demands more power than needed. Some people have noticed that L gear and CC isn’t as effective as D gear and CC.

If you have the A/N system, use it. Watch your MPGs when you're driving about, and the Energy diagram when you're in stop and go traffic to monitor your battery.

Avoid the Reds. The red dials on your climate controls (AC, Defroster) require the engine to be on at all times. Strangely enough, even at 65 MPH, you’re more fuel efficient with the windows down and the AC off than the AC on and the windows up.

Minimize braking pressures. Stop slowly as often as you can, it maximizes regnerative braking, saves your breaks, and allows more time for you to slow down and have your engine off.

Keep your tires inflated. 35 PSI.

Some people have even noticed a slight performance boost after getting an oil change.

3. How do I get great MPGs?

There’s some debate, and some skill involved so one technique may not work for you in your situation.

Over inflate your tires. Many people have noticed improvements when they put even more air in their tires, 40, 45 PSI. (More if you so desire)

in D, you can get the engine to go off (once warmed up) on demand under 40 MPH by using the double tap, or hitting your brakes twice in succession. I have found that I can always get the engine off in D; It's not quite a double tap though as two seperate taps, instead, put some pressure on the brakes, let off some, then reapply the pressure. In other words, if the brakes had a meter, from 0-100, with 0 being no brakes, and 100 being all the way down, press down to 20 or so, let off to 5, then go back to 20. Engines off, EV cruising you go. Now, the double tap will probably take practice, to find what combination works for you and your vehicle to get it ICE off.

The L gear advantage. Shifting from N/D/L positions does not harm the vehicle, the changes are software, not mechanical. L gear can be a tremendous benefit, particularly to city drivers. Essentially it’s D with automatic light braking, when you lift your foot off the pedal, you’ll slow down immediately. Additionally, the software is more aggressive, when you allow the vehicle to slow down below 40 MPH, with your foot off the pedal, you’ll find the engine goes off almost immediately. With some practice, you can see greater ICE off periods, and use less brakes.

Fake Speed Shifting. A trick to keep your RPMs down (which means better FE) is to use Fake shifts, or letting your foot off the accelerator to allow the engine to rev down for a moment, as if you wanted the vehicle to shift gears. With practice, and careful timing, you can keep the RPMs down and increase your performance.
Double Tapping. In D (Or in L), a way to get the ICE off to go off sooner is by using the double tap. With some practice, by pressing the brakes down under 40 MPH (Or with the second tap under 40 MPH) by using the double tap, or hitting your brakes twice. I found that I can always get the engine off in D; It's not quite a double tap though as two separate taps, instead, put some pressure on the brakes, let off some, then reapply the pressure. In other words, if the brakes had a meter, from 0-100, with 0 being no brakes, and 100 being all the way down, press down to 20 or so, let off to 5, then go back to 20, to see ICE off sooner. Additionally, when the battery needs to be recharged, a combination of multple fake shifts causes recharge to occur much faster, meaning you spend less time recharging (and thus avoiding longer periods of poor MPGs)

Actual Shifting. By mixing your gears, some people have seen some great performances by using D to drive, and L to slow down/stop, combining the best of both worlds.

Drafting. Don’t do it, it’s dangerous. That said, getting behind another vehicle, especially a truck with a large (tall) trailer can shield you from the wind resistance, which is where about 20% of your fuel goes to fighting. A good draft can mean 50/60 MPGs at 60/65 MPH.

Forced Auto Stop. See xcel (Wayne) https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/member.php?u=157 for info about FAS.

4. Why won’t my engine go off?

There may be a number of reasons why your engine won’t go off.

A. Engine has just started up. Regardless of everything, the engine always comes on when you turn the key to start up.

B. You're using a "red". Using a setting that's red on the climate controls, Max AC, Defroster, etc. will keep the engine on.

C. The engine area is cold and/or wet. The ICE will come on to warm the engine components/transfer/converters up to maintain performance and keep damage from occurring.

D. Because the battery is charged and you're spilling off energy. This isn't true, while the Tachometer will show spinning, no fuel is in use, the ICE technically isn't on.

E. Because you pressed down on the pedal. When it determines you need more power from the engine, it will turn it on.

F. Some other reason.

5. How long does it take to warm up/cool down?

Once again, this varies. During the summer it can be 2 minutes or less, while during the winter, as much as 10 minutes. Warmed up, (from driving) it can take 30 seconds or so for ICE off to occur.

It generally takes around 2 hours to cool down back to cold starting.

Keep in mind, once you've got it warmed up, you want to do as much of your driving as possible in this state, because you've got the systems to their efficient temperatures for a great performance. In other words, the longer the trip, the better (or trips, hence the combining of errands tip), while the shorter the trip, the worse your performance may be.

6. How long does it take to break in?

Most people see an increase at about 3000 miles, and some having been seeing further increases at 5000 to 8000 miles. Remember, both the vehicle and you have to break in, so give yourself time.

7. Why does it hiss when I unlock/open a door or a few minutes after?

That's the brakes pressurizing/depressurizing. This is normal.

8. There's this weird noise coming from the back?

If it's a hot day, chances are it's the air conditioner, not yours, but the one for the battery. It likes to be at the same temperature we do, so it has it's own heater/air conditioner. You can see the vents for it in the rear drivers side window.

9. Why is it after it rains, my brakes get all grabby?

Short answer, because you're not using them. Most of your deceleration, outside of stepping hard on the brakes isn't actually braking, it's the regeneration system taking your motion and turning it back into energy to use, which means that your wet brakes don't get a chance to friction dry when you apply light braking pressure (like in a conventional vehicle), which means your brakes are still wet when they are used when stopping. Wet brakes grab hard, hence the grabbyness.

10. I'm slowing down, but my tach is reving up!

This is normal, more or less. This can be as a bleedoff from the battery, as it likes to be 50% charged, and tries to bleedoff energy stored beyond 75% by spinning the engine to use up excess energy. This could also be because it's cold, or some other factor.

11. I've only driven a few miles, why is my tank gauge so far down?

Unlike some other vehicles, the tank gauge (Which is highly inaccurate) goes down fast at first, and then eats up the remainder very slowly. Don't worry, you're not doing anything wrong.

12. Okay, I got the A/N system, where's the 6 CD player? Can I listen to a music CD and use the Nav system?

Under the passenger seat.

Yes, place the nav CD in the dashboard, and place your music CDs in the 6 CD changer under the passenger seat.

13. What can take a bite out of my performance?

Winter can take a 20% performance bite out, AC (And probably Defroster) at low speeds are a 25% decrease, while at 60, are only a 10% decrease, and accessory usage can have an impact as well.

Having flags, or other material outside of the vehicle increases drag, and since about 20% of your fuel goes to fighting wind resistance, that percentage only increases.

Weight can be another factor that decreases performance.

Having low pressure in your tires can also negatively impact the vehicles performance.

If the battery has been depleted, the ICE recharges the battery, resulting in power going to both moving the vehicle and the battery, lowering performance and MPGs.

Heavy accessory usage can also impact performance. Using the headlights, fog lights, windshield wipers, A/N system, the fan on the highest setting, and all three accessory power plugs at once will lower your MPGs. (Don't worry about using them, but don't be surprised if using all them lowers your performance.)

Idling at a stop (or at any time when the ICE would normally be off) with the climate controls at a red setting (Note, climate controls, not heat) will keep the ICE on at that stop, resulting in 0 MPG for as long as you're stopped, eating away at your performance and one of the big hybrid advantages.

Short trips tend to eat away at your performance, as you spend most of your commute just getting the technology warmed up to peak efficiency and little to no time enjoying that peak performance. (However, if you combine lots of short trips, you can overcome this. While stop 1 and 2 may be with a cold engine, stops 3 and beyond are at that efficient warmed up period, which can even out, and increase your overall performance.)

 

Part III: Website/GH stuff!

1. I just saw something about the FEH in the news!

That’s great, and we hope you’ll share it with the rest of us. The best thing to do is try to find the same information online (If it’s in the paper, try that papers website, etc.) and post it not in the FEH/MM forum here, but the News and Journalism forum.

2. My MPG display and my fuel receipt don’t agree!

This happens. A lot. The A/N system uses a data point method of compiling the MPGs. At the same time, you may not always be putting in the same amount of fuel.

3. My tanks suck!

Well, this happens. Most of us have some pretty crappy tank data for the first four or so tanks. Additionally, cold, wind, cargo, AC, and other factors may contribute to a poor tank. Post it, and if you want, explain in the info section why that tank data isn’t as good as you’d have liked.

4. How do I get a signature that shows my tank data?

See this thread: https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...amic+signature

5. What's the Ford Dearborn Escape Hybrid Experience?

An invitation only event held by Ford at their Dearborn Michigan development facility to help FEH owners understand and use their vehicle to its potential. It was held in October 2005, and gave us an opportunity to ask the engineers who designed the systems questions about said systems, and gave us a look at other cools stuff.

You can read about it here: https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...orn+experience

And here:
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?sec...cle&storyid=935

6. Why did we get a FEH?

You can read up on why some of us got one here: https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...-feh.4145.html

7. I have a question!

Feel free to ask questions, someone will answer you. However, please check first, make sure someone isn’t asking the question already, or has just asked it before posting your new thread with the question.

8. What are some other websites I can go to?

There are a number of green sites that you can go to that discusses hybrid and other alternative technologies.

Hybrid Cars website, http://hybridcars.com

Yahoo FEH Group, http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...guid=163771593

9. I just got a FEH/MM, what do I do now?

Well, if you haven’t registered, do so. If you have, make sure to update your info to show you’re an owner of a FEH/MM. Make an introduction thread, or update said introduction thread with your car info. Add your FEH/MM to the database, and give it a good name.

As a bonus, you can go to the EPA, (www.fueleconomy.gov) and register there, adding your tank data there as well to share with anyone who goes there how the vehicle really performs!

Enjoy!

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Ver 1.0
Ver 1.1 - Added Websites, corrected some (?), and added some other questions.
Ver 1.11 - Added some info and renamed Fake Speed Shifting.
Ver 1.12 - Added HV to the glossary, and some info to section I and II.

Thanks to Jason, xcel, GaryG, and others at GH for their help.

Nyah nyah. I did it. If I missed anything let me know. If you can help get rid of a ? or have some other correction, let me know. If a mod can sticky this, it would probably help. (if you have a correction/suggestion, mention which section first.)

 

question. Does the Ford Escape Store Warm engine lubricant to help speed up cold starts? I'm aware that the Toyota prius II has this featureand was wondering if the Escape has also.

 

Awesome! Now we just need a moderator to make this a sticky.

You may want to submit this to Jason (or whoever is helping him now) as an article for the Learn section... you may be comepensated for your efforts!

 

The FEH does not have an on-board coolant heat storage feature (thermos bottle) like the Prius II. These feature signifcantly reduces warm up time and gets the engine into closed loop mode (O2 sensor working) faster which allows the computer software to shut off the engine sooner. A similar benifit might be possiable with an engine block heater or a heated o2 sensor.

 

with that feature though, you can have a portable heating heating block without user intervention. No need to plug it in and it can be used anywhere!

 

Okay, I've cleaned out my mailbox, so if you want to PM me, you can.

I've also added some info and questions to the FAQ as well, and cleaned it up a bit.

 

I hate bumps...

Well, I'm glad to see someone read and liked it. Though, as far as FAQs go, that was by far, the hardest one to write that I've ever done. (Though I'll admit, watching it slide down the front page is a bit painful at times.)

Anyway, when I pitched the idea to Jason way back in September (along with an individual vehicle moderator for the hybrid subforums), I had only three sections in mind, for interested non-owners/potential buyers, for people who have it want to get more out of it, and some basics on web info.

Going about it on my own after recent events, I posted each of these sections, as seperate posts, for space reasons, to allow each section to grow as needed. (There is a character limit to a post, the whole FAQ is about twice as large as that limit) I have no plans for a section IV or beyond, but for any other questions that I may have missed to go into those existing sections, and any info I left out to go in to flesh out the FAQ, hence a version history. Though admittedly, I thought about doing a Section IV: Humor and Rumor section, with myth/rumor debunking and some hybrid humor, but in the end I dropped it, as it didn't seem to fit with the rest of the theme of the FAQ, and lack of material.

 

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