Homelink rearview mirror
#51
10-02-2006, 05:55 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
Originally Posted by greenhybrider
Phew, finally managed to get the stock mirror of the windshield by lightly prying on the bottom and sliding it off the mount. But after reviewing the hood and installation procedures, I realize the whole thing is not as "easy" as I thought. I have the following questions:
1. First issue, where to tap power? From reading various posts, it seems like there are various sources, but I can't find any of these "panels" or "plugs". So my first question is, which of the following is the "best" (as in minimal intrusion, not affecting functioning of existing features) power source: 110/12V accessory outlet, upper cigarette ligher, center console?
JG> I taped mine from the upper "cigarette lighter" socket. This is switched power. As I posted before open the glove box and pull it down until the back comes out of the opening and you can see inside behind the upper dash/console. You will see a black and a blue wire going to this socket. The wires are inside a foam jacket. I had to split the jacket a little to get at the blue wire with a pliers to crimp on the "pink things"
2. Does anybody have experience in opening up center console? There are various panels and screws and I'm afraid of not being able put the whole thing together without explicit instruction. So photos and instructions will be much appreciated here.
JG> I didn't do this because it was easy to find the other wire with no chance of pry marks on anything visable.
3. Gentex wiring harness has 2 ends, one connects to mirror and the splits into 3 parts. First part is ground loop, the other 2 are pink "caps" that has a metal in it, what are these called? What else do I need to connect these "caps" to a live wire? Is there splicing involved?
JG> mine had 2 power wires in addition to the sensor wires. One connects to switched power and the other to non-switched. I connected both to switched as I saw no advantage of having a constant power connection and it took a constant 20 ma. My tests didn't show any difference switching both. I don't know if this is what you are referring to, but your documentation should talk about switched (or ignition) and constant power if so. I crimped one on the blue wire and the other on the second wire from the mirror. I didn't think the Gentex had 2 power wires, but the directions should clear it up.
4. The next series of issues involve the temp sensor. From the photos on this page, it seems prety easy, but once I take a look at the hood, I realize these photos do not represent how the hood actually is. For example, in Step 5, the cables are easily visible, but I can't find them in mya car. So does anybody know if any parts need to be removed in the hood to gain access to the wires and cables? Is this even recommended, because I saw a big sign in the hood area "do not change/tamper with engine
compartments"!
JG> you must run a pair of wires from the mirror to the temp sensor. I clipped my sensor underneath the plastic bumper on a frame member and fished the wire up and around the back of the battery next to the inner fender then through the grommet that serves the hood latch cable. I had to poke a #12 wire through then taped the end of the sensor wires to the #12 and then pulled it back through. I added a couple of wire ties to make sure the wires didn't come in contact with any hot hoses from the radiator.
1. First issue, where to tap power? From reading various posts, it seems like there are various sources, but I can't find any of these "panels" or "plugs". So my first question is, which of the following is the "best" (as in minimal intrusion, not affecting functioning of existing features) power source: 110/12V accessory outlet, upper cigarette ligher, center console?
JG> I taped mine from the upper "cigarette lighter" socket. This is switched power. As I posted before open the glove box and pull it down until the back comes out of the opening and you can see inside behind the upper dash/console. You will see a black and a blue wire going to this socket. The wires are inside a foam jacket. I had to split the jacket a little to get at the blue wire with a pliers to crimp on the "pink things"
2. Does anybody have experience in opening up center console? There are various panels and screws and I'm afraid of not being able put the whole thing together without explicit instruction. So photos and instructions will be much appreciated here.
JG> I didn't do this because it was easy to find the other wire with no chance of pry marks on anything visable.
3. Gentex wiring harness has 2 ends, one connects to mirror and the splits into 3 parts. First part is ground loop, the other 2 are pink "caps" that has a metal in it, what are these called? What else do I need to connect these "caps" to a live wire? Is there splicing involved?
JG> mine had 2 power wires in addition to the sensor wires. One connects to switched power and the other to non-switched. I connected both to switched as I saw no advantage of having a constant power connection and it took a constant 20 ma. My tests didn't show any difference switching both. I don't know if this is what you are referring to, but your documentation should talk about switched (or ignition) and constant power if so. I crimped one on the blue wire and the other on the second wire from the mirror. I didn't think the Gentex had 2 power wires, but the directions should clear it up.
4. The next series of issues involve the temp sensor. From the photos on this page, it seems prety easy, but once I take a look at the hood, I realize these photos do not represent how the hood actually is. For example, in Step 5, the cables are easily visible, but I can't find them in mya car. So does anybody know if any parts need to be removed in the hood to gain access to the wires and cables? Is this even recommended, because I saw a big sign in the hood area "do not change/tamper with engine
compartments"!
JG> you must run a pair of wires from the mirror to the temp sensor. I clipped my sensor underneath the plastic bumper on a frame member and fished the wire up and around the back of the battery next to the inner fender then through the grommet that serves the hood latch cable. I had to poke a #12 wire through then taped the end of the sensor wires to the #12 and then pulled it back through. I added a couple of wire ties to make sure the wires didn't come in contact with any hot hoses from the radiator.
#52
10-02-2006, 07:42 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
If you flip the glove box down, you can yank the 12V Power Connector off and hook it on there. There is a blind tab to push to release the connector. I used a couple of crimp on power taps to hook my mirror power at this spot. Once you have the connector off you have just enough room to put those crimps on without having to put your head in the glove box area. After I crimped the mirror wires on, I just replugged in the connector to the back of the 12V Power Connector (the tricky part is doing this by feel). This plug is switched power. The plug in the console "bucket" is 12V continuous. I think the brown wire is plus (it goes to the center of the 12V accessory plug. I was able to route the mirror wires across some other cables and supports to get to this location. I tie wrapped everything down pretty well to avoid rattles and any possiblity of chaffing the wiring harness. At this stage of your project the tricky part is getting the connector on/off the 12V accessory plug and insuring you got the polarity correct.
Good Luck, Dave
Good Luck, Dave
#53
10-03-2006, 01:22 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_par...271284,00.html
This link doesn't help much on the installation, but it does explain why the 2nd wire should be connected to the back-up lamp circuit.
This link doesn't help much on the installation, but it does explain why the 2nd wire should be connected to the back-up lamp circuit.
#54
10-11-2006, 10:02 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
Hi guys, thanks so much for all your feedback and instructions, but I'm still stuck at the stage trying to find a "route" to run the temp sensor wire.
I managed to get the splash guard down and clipped on the sensor with no problem, but can't find the right "channel" or "path" to run the temp sensor wire to the grommet destination. I tried looking for hood release cable, can't find it. One possibility is that I might be misled by the photos here (Step 5 and 6) a bit?
When I look at my own car, I can't find "empty" or "uncluttered" areas for easy access like in the photos. Do you guys think this guy actually removed the battery or several componets to have this unobstructed view here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chevyc...99.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chevyc...98.jpg&.src=ph
I managed to get the splash guard down and clipped on the sensor with no problem, but can't find the right "channel" or "path" to run the temp sensor wire to the grommet destination. I tried looking for hood release cable, can't find it. One possibility is that I might be misled by the photos here (Step 5 and 6) a bit?
When I look at my own car, I can't find "empty" or "uncluttered" areas for easy access like in the photos. Do you guys think this guy actually removed the battery or several componets to have this unobstructed view here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chevyc...99.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chevyc...98.jpg&.src=ph
#55
10-12-2006, 10:00 AM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
If you compare the photo for step 6 with the one for step 3, you can see he did remove a lot of things. He was also working on a regular escape, not a hybrid. I don't know if that would make a difference.
BTW, I just installed a Wayfinder V2020 compass with a wireless temperature sensor. I have tried hanging the remote sensor under the splash guard where the guy installed his sensor. I can tell you that at that location it reported a temperature 10 degrees higher than the real air temperature. After moving the sensor to the space behind the lower grille (on the passenger side), the sensor gives very accurate readings. It seems that nowhere on the vehicle behind the radiator plane is good for air temperature measurement.
BTW, I just installed a Wayfinder V2020 compass with a wireless temperature sensor. I have tried hanging the remote sensor under the splash guard where the guy installed his sensor. I can tell you that at that location it reported a temperature 10 degrees higher than the real air temperature. After moving the sensor to the space behind the lower grille (on the passenger side), the sensor gives very accurate readings. It seems that nowhere on the vehicle behind the radiator plane is good for air temperature measurement.
#56
10-12-2006, 10:45 AM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
Originally Posted by camedian
I have tried hanging the remote sensor under the splash guard where the guy installed his sensor. I can tell you that at that location it reported a temperature 10 degrees higher than the real air temperature. After moving the sensor to the space behind the lower grille (on the passenger side), the sensor gives very accurate readings. .
~John
#57
10-12-2006, 10:54 AM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
Originally Posted by camedian
After moving the sensor to the space behind the lower grille (on the passenger side), the sensor gives very accurate readings.
#58
10-12-2006, 01:01 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
great, now I have to fiddle around with the temp sensor location too?! 
I'll look for the lower grille location then. But this makes me wonder, has any of you found a "clear" path to run the sensor wire (from the passsenger-side lower grille) to the grommet? I am no car technician, so when I look into the hood, it looks like a web!
I'll look for the lower grille location then. But this makes me wonder, has any of you found a "clear" path to run the sensor wire (from the passsenger-side lower grille) to the grommet? I am no car technician, so when I look into the hood, it looks like a web!
#59
10-12-2006, 01:09 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
Originally Posted by camedian
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_par...271284,00.html
This link doesn't help much on the installation, but it does explain why the 2nd wire should be connected to the back-up lamp circuit.
This link doesn't help much on the installation, but it does explain why the 2nd wire should be connected to the back-up lamp circuit.
It seems that everyday I find out more "technical" knowledge required to install this darn mirror!
Not only do I need to find the fuse box, now I have to determine which circuit is for "backup-lamp"?! Oh mine, is there a car electrician's course or FEH owner's course somewhere for me to take?!
#60
10-12-2006, 09:41 PM
Re: Homelink rearview mirror
Originally Posted by greenhybrider
It seems that everyday I find out more "technical" knowledge required to install this darn mirror!
Not only do I need to find the fuse box, now I have to determine which circuit is for "backup-lamp"?! Oh mine, is there a car electrician's course or FEH owner's course somewhere for me to take?!
Not only do I need to find the fuse box, now I have to determine which circuit is for "backup-lamp"?! Oh mine, is there a car electrician's course or FEH owner's course somewhere for me to take?!
I just finished hardwiring my Wayfinder V2020. The car manual should tell you the fuse panel is on the passenger side of the center console. Just open that panel cover and you will see the fuses. Fuse #24 is for the switched cigarette lighter.
Now you need to go to your local auto store to find a LittelFuse Mini Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder. The part number is FHM200BP. Don't buy the FHA200BP because it is NOT mini. In my area the part is available at AutoZone for $5.99. Don't buy it online because the cheapest I could find online was $14.95.
Remove the fuse from slot #24 and follow the instructions coming with the Add-A-Circuit to insert it into the same slot.
Route one of the power wires of your mirror to the fuse panel from the area under the dash and the glove box. Connect the wire to the Add-A-Circuit wire.
Connect the ground wire to one of the screws on the firewall. I used the one close to the black electrical box on the floor. You need to get a 1/4"-28 hex nut to fasten the groud wire to the screw. Use a couple of washers if you want. I bought the hex nut from Home Depot.
I used a multimeter to test the line on fuse #29 (back-up lamp), but it seems always hot after I turn the key on. I was hoping it could be turned on/off when I shifted to/out of reverse so that you can use another Add-A-Circuit to connect the second power wire. You can double check.
I can't help you on routing the sensor wire because mine is wireless.
Last edited by camedian; 10-12-2006 at 09:56 PM.
