Now that I've thought more about this, I have more questions. What a surprise!?

1. I have the Gentex mirror with homelink feature. According to mirror manual, one wire (homelink) should be connected to continuous power source, and the other one (auto-dimming) connected to switched. Which fuse is the best for continous power supply? I am worried about battery drain but homelink is only activatd when the button is pressed so it should be ok?

2. Camedian observes that fuse #29 (backup lamp) is always "hot" when ignition is on. My question is, doesn't the backup lamp on our car light up "only" when we put it in reverse gear? Why isn't the backup lamp always on if #29 is always "hot"?

3. Come to think of it, since #29 is switched (hot when ignition is on), isn't it the correct connection for the auto-dimming power wire, because we want auto-dimming to work at all times (except in reverse gear) when the car is on?

4. I see a connection between how the backup lamp lights up AND auto-dimming is supposed to shut off when the car is in reverse gear, but what is the explanation here for the always-hot #29? Do the backup lamp and auto-dimming mirror have a "detection" method to tell when the car is in reverse gear so "something" is activated or shut off?

 

"Hot" just means that power is available to turn the backup lamps 'on', but doesn't mean they are actually 'on'.

Kind-of like, you can plug a table lamp into the wall outlet (make the lamp "hot"), but that by itself doesn't mean the lamp will light up. You have to also turn its switch 'on' too.

 

You all, who are putting in a Homelink mirror, do you have the factory auto-dimming mirror? I would think that if so, most of the wiring should already be up at the mirror (well, except for new functions like outside temp).

Along these lines, does anyone know if the Homelink mirror sold by Mazda specifically for the Tribute, is any different? Again, I wonder if it is just a "plug in"???

 

Since your mirror manual clearly indicates what the wires are for, I don't think the instructions on DIYNetwork about disengaging the auto-dimming apply here. Sorry to confuse you with that link.

Use #24 (cigarette lighter) for auto-dimming because that one is switched. I think it is better to keep the accesories on the accessory circuit if possible.

The lower accessory socket has continuous power, but the manual doesn't say which fuse is for that circuit. You can test it by inserting an accessory such as a car cell phone charger with an LED, and then pull the fuses out one by one using the plastic clamp on the back of the panel cover. You will know which fuse is the right one when the LED turns off. You can rule out some of the fuses such as #4 (ignition switch), #5 (PCM relay), and etc. You can also try #7 first because it is for the instrument cluster, power mirror switch (which I think has continuous power).

That means the switch to turn on the backup lamps comes after the fuse in the circuit.

Again, my choice is #24.

I don't know. Maybe it only applies to the mirror they used on DIYNetwork.

 

My mirror isn't a Gentex, but the manual said connect one wire to switched and one to continuous. I did a bench test with at power supply and ampmeter. The continuous took about 20 milliamps and the switched took about 220 milliamps. I couldn't see any reason to use the continuous. It didn't help to store settings and I didn't want the current drain or any circuit that wasn't switched so I hooked both to the switched. The only thing I could think for the continuous would be good for is a heater to keep the thing from freezing. We don't have that problem much here in Phx so I didn't think I would need it


JG

 

In the case of failing to find continuous power, is tapping both power wires (auto-dimming and homelink) onto the same #24 fuse a safe thing to do (as in will it overload anything)?

ps. by the way the fuse folder suggestion is fantastic! it avoids any splicing and cutting

 

I think it is safe. The fuse holder has two slots. One is for the original fuse from the fuse panel. It also comes with a few fuses of different Amp values. You have to use one of them in the second slot for your mirror.

Do you want to use the Homelink feature when the ignition is off?

 

I would not want the Homelink to work that way, or anyone who gets into your truck will have immediate access to your garage & maybe your house.

I wired mine so the key has to be on to open the garage door.

~John

 

You are right, but it isn't any worse than having a regular remote in your vehicle.

 

It absolutely is worse, you can easily hide a remote -how do you hide a Homelink system??

~John