rperla, a few questions and suggestions:

1. Did you disconnect the 12V battery after parking your FEH for storage?
This will prevent the Power Sustain Relay (PSR) from shutting down the PCM and TCM and drain your HV battery.

2. With the ignition On, run a Scan for DTC codes with your SGII.

3. In the Battery Junction Box (BJB), is the PSR which there are a total of 6 of the same relays in a row. The number 1 relay is the PSR and I suggest switching that relay with number 4 (heater pump relay) to see if it helps start your FEH. The '08 FEH may not have the same BJB and relays like my '05 FEH and the '09 FEH no longer has a PSR.

Here is a photo of my '05 BJB and the relays:
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/showp.../500/ppuser/36

There are a few more pictures on page 3 in my CMPG Photo Gallery:
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/showg...ge/3/ppuser/36

You could also have a corroded cable from you batteries draining so check that.

 

He can't get the car started; so the lights are indeed lit, because that is the default state when starting the car. But until the engine is running I don't think the CPU will provide accurate data to the dash.

I'm not sure about the SG though, to my mind that should be reading once 12v power is on.

 

The OBD-II port is "always" powered that's one reason why they sell a cord to keep the KAL memory powered while swapping a battery. Technically the SG is always powered and putting a slight drain on your battery.

 

Thanks to every one who has answered or commented regarding this post...
I will follow some of your advices or checks tomorrow...as I was scanning the FEH today...I've found several codes -but not using my Scangauge- and after i did celar most of them and re-checking, still present are "P1A10 Hybrid Powertrain control module - Battery disabled"; "P1A14 Hybrid Powertrain control module - Transmission disabled" and "P0A0A HV System interlock circuit"
I forgot to mention form the beggining that "stop safely now" and the red triangle are present in the instrument panel - some guys figured out about this.
ICE still not running - not even a crank!

 

FjordHybrid: for the HV battery I am using these numbers: "074522490B 04620549060B 3010 007D40000000" and as I copied those numbers to this post, I just figured out alternative numbers: "07E122490B 04620549060B 3010 007D10000000" all of them form the document xgauge.pdf donwloaded from their website...anyway, can you tell me which ones are you using?

 

I am going to jump in here with some speculation.
Given, the "red jump start button" is just a warming
circuit for the HV battery. If the HV battery is
totally dead, as in 0vdc, or as you say 84vdc, then
that is gonna take quite the circuit to get it up
to say 200vdc. I've seen no logical place to easily
get to the +/- terminals of the FEH HV batt. That for
safeties sake. I've had the rare experience of being
kicked by 400vdc some years ago across two fingers.
Not a pleasant experience. BTW, that 84vdc is probably
just a residual "float" charge with no humph behind
it.

Charging a +12vdc or even +24vdc batt is fairly
straight forward. Building a circuit that will
deliver lets say a couple amps at 330vdc long
enough to get some energy into that thing is
gonna be a challenge, and a safety risk. Cross
the change cables on a +12vdc charger you get
a pretty big spark. Cross the cables on a 330vdc
battery and all hell will break loose.

I'd build a very light weight circuit that would
deliver maybe a couple hundred milliamps at a
couple hundred volts. And do that for a couple
days then try it. But, as in above, where would
you connect into that thing?

I wonder if ( some ) of the dealers have something?

FWIW batteries like this are never never shorted.
You only see where the short was, not is. I had
a brief stint with some submarine batteries once.
A fire hazard they were.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
The problem was a very little piece of plastic -bag or wrap- betwen the Traction Battery A (TB-A) connector and the battery pins, or what is the same, an open circuit right in the HVIPWR (High Voltage Interlock Power)...some body -in the paint workshop disconected this and left that susprise for me...
I used the Service Manual PinPoint Test HJ "HV Interlock" (form 2005-2007 FEH...I have to get the 2008!)
ahhhh!!!
Engine runs at the firts try and No DTCs stored.

Things I've learned:
»Jump start process: it works, but if you have to do it, you better get a 12V battery charger and put it to the 12V battery during all the process (of course, I cannot say if that warms or actually charge the HV batt.) You may have to try more than twice....
»Scangauge:
-»I used the other programming for TBV and could see 335V's -I named it "TBv"- before the ICE runs...but the first TBV that I programmed, still shows 84V...but I remeber it was 0V before any jumpstart process...anyway, I'll use the one that reads 330V's range...thank you FjordHybrid for the tip!
-»I also programed the SCII with the rigth numbers to see the TBCM codes and clear them out, very usefull! (see post "Retrieving DTCs with the ScanGauge" http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21291)
-»After ICE did run for about 10-15 mins, it shuts down and went to EV. SOC went up to 50% or more....
»PSR relay...after I remove the piece of plastic but before I try to crank the ICE -which finally runs- I switched the pos.30A "cooling fan 1 relay" with the pos.30B "power sustain relay" (pags. 217-218 Owner's manual 2008)...I can't say if have helped...but thank you GaryG...I always read your posts!

Thanks a lot!

 

Great work, thanks for the follow up, too many times these threads don't
play out to the conclusion.
i guess it was the 80v that was throwing everyone off.
The HV circut is accessible 2 way I know from working with the
Enginer kit. One is to open the battery cover, which involves practically
removing the entire case from the car, there are 4 screws that are inacessable otherwise.
You could also "sneak" a narrow gauge wire past the connector
housing which maybe you could use to trickle charge if you had a 350v powe source.

 

Stevedebi- the issue I think is that they have a heater in the battery as past of the block heater setup already. So Ford chose to use the normal characteristic of a battery whereby the capacity increases with temperature. The complexity of adding a step up voltage unit to charge the battery would add to their cost. So Ford just banked on the HV battery never getting so low that it wouldn't start. I'll go see where I read the "heater thing" and follow up.

 

To respond to subdewd and Bill Winney's posts.
The thought of designing in a constant current,
lets say 5AMP, 330VDC battery charger into the
FEH electronics mix is a daunting task. What
the circuit does is provide a constant current,
not a constant voltage, then as the battery
charges it consumes less current, not less
voltage. As the battery charges you turn the
current down and maintain the 330VDC until
you hit say less then 100 milliamps. Then
you shut the circuit down thereby stopping
the charging process and not cooking the
battery(s). Ford has chosen to heat the
battery rather then designing in such a
beast. That would be my choice. But, if
the 330VDC battery is fully discharged
how do you get enough into it to get
things going again? I'd like to know how
much energy from the HV Battery it really
takes to turn over the ICE to get it started.
I think it does not take very much to turn
the ICE over. So heating a completely
discharged HV battery from say room temp,
22 degrees C to lets say 30 degrees C may
be just enough to turn the ICE over to get
it started.