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Those in California and the few other "green" states have a 10 year, 150,000 mile warranty on the hybrid components.
As for the MECS pump being covered under the hybrid warranty, it never has been and that is the way it is.
But, but, but - WHY NOT? It's a part that's REQUIRED for the hybrid system to function properly, which seems to be a valid argument to have it covered under the warranty....
Ah, OK - I couldn't tell exactly what the part was since the image cut off at "HV BATTERY COO".
I still don't understand why the MECS wouldn't be covered under the hybrid-specific 50K/100K warranty, though. (I live in CA so would have the 100K warranty, no?)
CA has 150K and 10 years. But the MCES isn't covered, supposedly because even though it is only found on the FEH, it is not directly connected with the hybrid power train.
They were replaced under warranty because of, I assume, the low mileage and the vehicle was only a couple of years old (an 07 FEH, repair date 12-19-08).
Verbatim on the invoice:
ELECTRICAL BASE
CUST STATES WRENH LIGHT IS ON
SELF TEST PCM - FOUND FAULTY WATERPUMP, DC/CONVERTER OVER HEATING
AND FAULTY ACTUATOR FOR REAR A/C UNIT
PERFORMED TSB 08-24-5, TSB 07-25-2
WHICH REPLACED WATER PUMP AND ACTUATOR
REPROGRAMMED BCM RETEST GOOD
I did a quick internet search on MEC Ford Escape Hybrid since I didn't know what MEC in these posts meant (MECS = motor electronic cooling system) and found the blog below which discusses the pump, TSB (detailed info) and how to replace the pump yourself.
It appears in the blog that the MECS pump is not covered under the Hybrid components warranty. And the TSB that is shown in the blog specifically states that the MECS pump is not covered outside the normal warranty just because it has a TSB on it.
You can call Ford to see if they will reimburse you for the work/part, and mentioning the TSB(s) probably won't hurt any, but it doesn't look promising. But you won't know until you at least try.
My wife was driving about 60mph on the highway when she said she felt a lurch as if she had shifted gears on a manual transmission.... and the exclamation point light came on and a "stop safely now" light came on. She pulled over for 5 minutes and the vehicle restarted and ran with no problems.
SO... my inclination is that... from reading the 22 page thread, it seems like 99% of those messages are either a failing coolant pump or a wiring issue. I had that battery connector recall done a while ago so I am pretty sure its not that.
I guess that all I can do is wait and see if I get another "stop safely now" and if so have the dealer try to pull codes?
EDIT
Well, it happened again on her way back.... again driving along I-95.... vehicle just shut down. Very dangerous and scared her quite a bit. Luckily she was able to pull over and onto a ramp. I met her and drove home on the back roads with no problems. I noticed when I pulled into the garage that there was some odd noise coming from the front end.... sort of under the radiator fan area. Vehicle was on, engine off (EV mode) and also after turning back to Key On mode only. ...so from my reading that sounds like the MECS. Sounded kind of like a motor that was constantly changing RPMs....slowing down to a crawl, speeding up.... sometimes sounding like a fan with something tapping the blades as the spin.... but it definitely wasn't the radiator fans.
EDIT: Just crawled under the vehicle, just about dead center under the front bumper, there's a small opening in the plastic cowling... right in front of the oil filter... I believe this is the MECS. This is the part that's making the weird noises.... and tapping it with a rubber mallet makes it change noises / speeds and even seem to stop it.
Dealer couldn't take it today so I'll drop it off with the advice that they check the MECS pump.
Just filed my own complaint with NHTSA.
-Tim
2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid AWD
Black with Pebble interior
Premium Package with Nav & Moonroof
I noticed when I pulled into the garage that there was some odd noise coming from the front end.... sort of under the radiator fan area. Vehicle was on, engine off (EV mode) and also after turning back to Key On mode only. ...so from my reading that sounds like the MECS. Sounded kind of like a motor that was constantly changing RPMs....slowing down to a crawl, speeding up.... sometimes sounding like a fan with something tapping the blades as the spin.... but it definitely wasn't the radiator fans.
Sounds exactly like the MECS pump. Could you check the MeT on a Scan Gauge?
Suggest you follow the diagnostic procedure in the shop manual and tap the MECS pump with a hammer to see if it will start pumping again. I got several more weeks of service from mine after that procedure.
My '06 was purchased used with 127k miles on it. One of the first things I checked was the MECS pump. When I discovered it was still the original pump, I immediately ordered a new one and replaced it preemptively.
Other than sheering off some bolt heads (impossibly frozen), it was an easy self-service.
I also highly recommend a ScanGauge to monitor the electronics cooling system temp. That would have made the diagnosis simple and virtually instant.
Don't have a scangauge. It is the original pump. I did tap it with a hammer and it noticeably changes the rate at which it is pumping.... sometimes making it stop altogether.
Unfortunately, I'm not set up to do the repair myself... no stands, too big to get underneath and work. Plus I don't want to deal with the hassle of dealing with flushing / changing coolant. Unless the dealer quotes me a ridiculous rate and won't negotiate on what sounds like a < 1hr job for them.
-Tim
2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid AWD
Black with Pebble interior
Premium Package with Nav & Moonroof
It's an easy DIY, stands would be good, but no flushing / changing coolant required. You can easily capture the small amount of coolant that escapes and add it back to the coolant tank.
The dealer will want $600+ for parts and labor. The pump alone is under $200 online. Any mechanic (non-dealer) should be able to do this for an hour's labor.
It's an easy DIY, stands would be good, but no flushing / changing coolant required. You can easily capture the small amount of coolant that escapes and add it back to the coolant tank.
The dealer will want $600+ for parts and labor. The pump alone is under $200 online. Any mechanic (non-dealer) should be able to do this for an hour's labor.
Yep, the dealer will screw you on this EXTREMELY easy repair.
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
