I am afraid, one of my rear calipers is sticky.

Which is no big deal to refurbish it or replace it.

Big deal is - bleeding the brakes thereafter. Of course, I am not going to dealer.
But, also, I have heard a lot of buzz about those cars not been able to be bled without a scan tool.

So, before I start tearing things apart, can I simply bleed them with pedal, or vacuum pump, I do have that, and then get out on a rod and slam on brakes 5-6 times, what is normally bleeding ABS module?

I'll be doing rear struts soon, planning on doing caliper same time.

 

Subscribed...

I would just get a kit and rebuild it if kits are even available? Rebuilt ones are usually junk from the auto parts stores and new ones are probably astronomically expensive. Put a speed bleeder on there maybe for bleeding? Another one for GAHy.

Maybe get one off a salvage car, rebuild it to save down time on your car. Then save your old one as back up.

Do you think you will have a camber issue with the rear struts as well. After you posted all of that the other day, I was reading where someone had a problem with the rears as well. Forgot where I read that?

 

That isn't issue. Issue is breeding. Darn thing has too many computers.

 

Right... As I posted above, have you considered using a speed bleeder?

Get a decent cap before you remove the caliper, cap the line immediately after you remove it. Fill the caliper with brake fluid before installation. Quickly install the hose on the new caliper. There wont be much air in there. When you have it all assembled and back together, crack the speed bleeder with a small hose attached and cycle the brakes a few times.

I did this on a 2005 Mercedes Benz CDI with a braking system that is probably more complicated than this one with no issues at all.

 

Yes, I do have power bleeder.
I care not about camber, I know how to adjust that.
I am only worried about ABS module, as there have been several posts here and there saying that you can not bleed TCH without scan tool, as ABS actuators must be moved.

 

ukrkoz

There is a VERY specific bleeding procedure for the Camry Hybrid. You are right in that you need a scan tool and besides the ABS unit, the brake actuators are also electric and controlled by computer. You do not have a normal "master cylinder" like a normal car. The computer takes input from the brake pedal and adjusts the amount of regen and hydraulic brakes are required to stop the car.

Because of that, all braking is actually performed at the right front of the engine compartment. The only way to bleed the %#!!!!&**## brakes is to hook up the scan tool, sacrifice 3 chickens and one politician, say prayers to what ever deity you desire and hope the manual is correct.

By the way, you DO have a shop manual or a subscription don't you? If not, that would be the first thing to check out.

 

****. Usually you are bearer of better news.
Well, hoping it's not the caliper. I'll have rear ends torn apart anyway for struts install. That whoomp whoomp in the back is not going away. Have no idea what it is. But when I did rear brake pads, one pad on one side was worn out much more on caliper side, which is normally not a good sign.

 

Brake Bleeding Steps
Cautions:
–
Scanner is needed for most procedures.
–
Remove pump motor relays 1& 2 until
told to install or in some operations they
will instruct you to remove and re-
install, but you do not want the pump
running while servicing.
–
When removing any part of the system,
remove relays and bleed pressure off
before removing any lines.

Brake Bleeding Steps
1. Connect hand-held tester & select diagnostic
menu (ABS/VSC air bleeding)
2. List:
1.Usual
2.Actuator
3. Master Cylinder or Stroke Simulator
Hint: A “FAILED” message will appear in any mode of
bleeding if the system believes there is still air present.
Simply return to MENU, repeat procedure.
3. Fill reservoir (DOT 3) with brake fluid.
Brake Bleeding Steps
4
.
To bleed the front/rear brakes select “USUAL”
and follow on screen prompts to “turn off ignition,
remove motor relays 1&2, turn ignition on then
press enter.
5. An “Operations” screen will appear and allow the
front brakes to be bleed in the normal fashion.
6. Press enter and a screen will appear saying turn
ignition off, install relays, and turn ignition on.
Press enter.
7. A screen will appear saying hold brake pedal
down and bleed air from left rear wheel.
(The actuator pump motor will run while pedal is depressed.)
8. The next screen will allow for bleeding in the
same manner for the right rear.
9. Pressing enter a screen should come up to say
Complete. If not, repeat.
10. Bleeding the Actuator is much the same. Follow
on screen prompts to bleed at the wheels in a
defined order.
11. Option is available to bleed the air from the
stroke simulator line. Screen will come up
wanting the pedal depressed 20 times in 20
seconds/ hold pedal on last (20
th
) stroke to
bleed.
12. Bleeding the Master Cylinder/ Stroke Simulator
requires following the screen prompts, first
performing the USUAL procedure for front wheels
as before.
DO NOT FORGET TO CLEAR THE
DTCs.

 

Sucks...


BLEED REAR BRAKE SYSTEM

CAUTION: Never bleed air from the brake hydraulic system without using the intelligent tester. Failure to use the intelligent tester could cause serious injury or an accident.

NOTICE: Bleed air by following the steps displayed on the intelligent tester.

(a) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3 with the power switch off.
(b) Check that the parking brake is applied and turn the power switch on (IG).
(c) Turn the intelligent tester on and select "DIAGNOSTIC MENU"->"ABS/ VSC"->"ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED BRAKE SYSTEM UTILITY"->"ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED BRAKE SYSTEM INVALID".
(d) With the brake pedal depressed, bleed the rear brake system from the bleeder plug on the rear disc brake cylinder LH while the pump motor and solenoid are operating.

CAUTION: Keep the fluid inside the reservoir above the LOW level by replenishing.

HINT:

Depress and hold the brake pedal.
After the solenoid operates for approximately 30 seconds , release the brake pedal to stop the solenoid.
Repeat the procedures until air is completely bled from the rear brake system.
The brake control warning light comes on and the buzzer sounds while bleeding, but they do not indicate a malfunction.

 

Good grief there's a lot involved. If you attempt this, I look forward to hearing how it all went. Be safe!