As few Camry hybrids, if any, amongst the commercially sold cars in the US have hit that level, I wonder how he knows that. Not trying to be disagreeable, but the laboratory testing Toyota did with 100 or 200 cars before launching the Camry pales in comparison to the real life experience of the two hundred thousand on the road in every day use. There's no way even Toyota engineers will know how long they'll last, theory aside, only real life results matter.
The car was released in 2006, if the average driver drives 15,000 miles a year, this dealer service manager, in all likelihood, never saw a Camry hit 125,000 miles yet.
While I understand how they come up with that figure, I believe real life experience in the Prius (older car) has many passing the 200M (in my business, M= thousand and K= kilometer, as in "I'm running a 10K, please sponsor me").

 

Pete4 hit the nail on the head with this one - the life expectancy is 150k++.

In California and about 13 other states the batteries have a 10 year / 150,000 mile warranty.

If the average lifetime isn't beyond 150k, Toyota will be paying out BIG $$ on warranty claims. Unlike Honda, Toyota seems to have done their homework on their batteries.

 

SO these claim are being paid because California has longer warrantee of 100K mikes? Or are the batteries not holding up to 100K?

 

I'm not a lawyer and haven't read the terms of the warranty, but is it possible the warranty is similar to tire warranty, which is different from the extended warranty that people buy?
With tires that are warranted to 50,000 miles, for example, if they fail, owner is warranted proportionally to the life of the tire, so, if the tire fails at 25,000 miles, owner gets half the value paid towards the replacement, if it fails at 45,000, owner gets 10% paid, etc.
I can't believe that a manufacturer will set themselves up for a situation where they're on the hook for the full cost of a major expenditure without this proportionality feature. If a battery fails after 5000 miles or another fails at 99,999 miles their responsibility should be different.
Battery warranties, like all other OEM warranties are marketing ploys. If they know a product has an expected lifespan of 10 years, or more, its no "skin off their nose" to throw in a six year warranty. more people will buy a car if the warranty period is longer, so it's usually a safe, calculated, gamble to create a lengthy "sounding" period. In the case of hybrids, which are effectively a new concept, the consumer needed reassurance that the product will last a long time.
As such, I'd be willing to bet the expected life of the battery is easily 150m miles, if not longer, thus the 8 year/100m warranty and fewer than a handful of owners' batteries will fail before that period. Further, I'll bet that if someone reads the warranty, they'll probably find some clause that compares the attained mileage to the warranty to determine the actual value received on failure. Again, I can't imagine they'll throw you a $1,000+ repair if the battery fails 2 miles or one week before the end of your period. Not positive on this...but has anyone read the terms?

 

I can find talk about the million mile prius, but not it's traction battery. Same battery as the '07 Camry TCH other than it's larger due to the need for more amps vs the heavier car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAIGj4i4s2Q

from PriusChat

Just to let u know, I called Toyota on 3 separate occasions.

1st when I had about 375000, they said they was not interested.

2nd when I broke the undisputed record of 435000 on original batteries.

3rd was around 460000 I believe, again they were not interested.

So I did what I thought was best for me. The Prius V exceeded my expectations, and I am glad I bought it. Same gas mileage and bigger space.

 

My Honda Civic Hybrid probably has a similar pack as yours and has over 220,000 miles without any issue at all.

CVT slippage yes. Battery problems no.

 

I have 174,600 miles on my '07 TCH. Purchased in Oct. '06.

I have noticed recently that the engine runs in drive thru lanes more than it used too, after brisk acceleration the engine remains at an elevated rpm for 30 seconds after I release the gas pedal.

Also the battery level as reported on the navigation screen seems to fluctuate up and down from max to min more than it used to.

I am wondering if my battery is on it's last leg?

Not sure if I want to dump the car now while it works, or just keep it until it fails. I have not seen any cheap battery replacement options. I might even break open the pack myself upon failure and try to rebuild it.

 

I think I would just trade it in. No one will know the difference. GOOD LUCK on that!

 

Check to see if your ECO is shown to be on in the center or your AC/Heat readout. If not, press it on using the button just to the right of you gas-door button. I found it's best to keep your AC/Heat by using the temp numbers. If you choose Hi or Lo then it will kick off the ECO setting.

The ECO mode helps your engine to shut off at low speeds and especially when your sitting at a red light.

The elevated rpm after accelerations is the fuel, sounds like the butterfly valve in the throttle body is sticking. Sound good but I don't know if the '07 TCH even has one. Google should know.. You might pull the air intake tube off the metal intake and look inside. I had a '94 Corolla that stuck and I saw a butterfly operated by a servo. I used a little carb cleaner to clean out any dark deposits and that fixed the sticking problem. Ask youtube you may learn more and find a better cleaner than I used.

I would not attempt messing inside the 285 dc volt traction battery. The cells are in 7 volt packs and each cell is non-standard size between a C and D which were used too. If you have a single bad cell within the pack the battery cell scanner (mounted to the pack) notifies the ECU and you will be alerted by your MFD readout. Not sure if it would say traction battery low or simply giving you a trouble number which pack reads low. You could look for a replacement used battery pack from a salvage yard.

With that many miles I would be toying the idea of buying a new '12 TCH. Lots of advantages with the new one and seems easier to get higher mpg from.

 

If you know a good tech in your area with a factory or Snap-on scanner (Solus, Verus, Verdict or Modis), they should be able to scan your pack, the modules within, temps, amps and pretty much anything else you might need to know. When I get home tomorrow night, I'll put the Modis on mine and let you know what it can get.