A simple question from a simple mind:

I was changing/upgrading the Headlights (CCFL halo rings in new assemblies) and parking bulbs on my '07 TCH. For some reason, i lost the lights now. I did one side and it was working just swimingly. After starting on the other one i was checking +- and then they went out. I suspect a fuse since other items are now out. My problem is that the fuse system in this electronic circuit board on wheels is baffling!?

Anyway, here's my delima: My standard headlights work. Turns (front/rear) work. Parks will "blink" when alarm is set.

I have lost: parking lights front & rear. License plate light, DRL's, tails.

I checked the "tail" fuse in the driver box and swapped with another 15amp but they didnt come back.

I am stumped (and blind too).

Can anyone possibly direct me to the correct fuse in the drivers box or engine box?

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you . . . .

Is there a fusable link in the wiring? Someone with a wiring diagram would have to tell you.

I am looking at the wiring diagram and have a couple of questions. First do your side marker lamps work? Also do your rear door power windows and locks work?

This wiring diagram is like tracing spaghetti throw on the wall!!!

Wayne

2008 Toyota Camry Hybrid, Magnetic Grey, XM Radio, Body Side Moldings, Splash Guards, Formula 1 Pinnacle 35 Ceramic Window Tint, PadsPlus Neoprene Rubber Insert Set, Putco Chrome Door Handles, Michelin Primacy P215/60R16 95H Tires, OEM Rear SE Spoiler

Looking at the Taillight Relay Circuit, it looks like your most likely candidates are:

1. Taillight fuse (15 Ampere, fuse number 14). ---- I know, you said you already swapped this thing out.
2. Instrument Panel Junction Box assembly connections / plugs.
3. Taillight relay connections.
4. Taillight relay (Terminals: 1: Coil power; 2: Coil Control -- From Main Body ECU; 3: Contact going to load (fuse); 4: N/C contact going to ground; 5: N/O contact -- Power from same as Coil Power).

John


2007 TCH -- Desert Sand, Bisque -- Original Equip: Leather Seats; NAV; Moonroof; Heated Seats
Completed Mods: Moved the side "HYBRID" emblem/badge to trunk lid; Mud Guards (Colored); Back-up Sensors; Door sill protector; ScanGauge II; Front Bra (Clear LLumar); Window Tinting (40 % Charcoal LLumar); Rear Deck Lid Spoiler
Mods in progress: None
Future mods: Rear bumper appliqué, Sliding Center Armrest

Thanks John. I finally did find what I believe to be the correct fuse (the 15A for the "tail" located in the drivers side compartment, above the dash). I did swap it though but NADA (and Idont mean the car value book either ).

Anyway, maybe my "spare" fuse is also toast?

Here be my story . . . a long time ago in a galaxy far, far, away.... (ooops - wrong one). I bought new front lights for the car. These have the CCFL "halos" around the hi/lo lights. I also opted for the blackened inside since the chrome didnt do anything for light projection and it looked more custom in my mind (however warped).

Anyway, passenger side went on (after removing bumper!) and I tied into the small parking lamp as instructed. Really simple: Red from the light spliced into the + into the bulb socket; and the neg of the light to chassis ground. So, wired it up , set fixture in place and "wow"! Working and looked great!

Now to the driver side. All as the other. I did circuit test to verify power into the bulb socket and then spliced. And then . . . . . nothing

Turned on the switch and nothing - from either unit. No parks. No tails. No DRL's. Nada, zip, zero, zoint.

So thats when i began my fuse "easter egg" hunt. Between my bad eyesight and the size of the little buggers i wasnt sure which was which.

So, I think maybe - just maybe - there is another fuse or relay in line somewhere? I called the dealer and spoke with a service tech (from a pay phone from the bad part of my town - dont want the call traced and have my warranty voided!) and basically they keep saying "bring it in".

I guess I'm gonna try to remove and replace the original units today (weather permiting - but we had tornados here the other day so who knows) and see if the "bad" light is taking down the system or if i have bigger fish to fry.

If anyone out there has any additional suggestions (besides ME working on my own car - which I'm starting to lean toward) please let me know. I'd appreciate any guidance or ideas.

Wish me luck!

Fuses are very easy to check with a multi-meter. If you can't visually see the open, then use a meter...........if it reads anything more than 5-10 ohms.........it is probably bad. It should read .1 to .5 ohms or so. Maybe you also shorted something when you spliced the hot. Check into that.