Quote:
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Originally Posted by tedpark
He sort of tossed of the comment that the electric motor starts things off and at about 15 or 20 mph the engine kicks in and becomes primary.
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I've seen similar things about the Ford Escape Hybrid which would make one think it is ALWAYS all electric to a certain speed (20
MPH or something) then the ICE kicks in. Simply not true.
Sad but true fact: the writers and reviewers aren't necessarily knowledgable nor do they all care. I saw a web article where the auto reviewer effectively said you could get 10 to 20
MILES on electric only in a Prius. No way unless it is all down hill. I wrote to him so he could correct it. 1 mile in good conditions, MAYBE 2 in perfect conditions. He replied but didn't change the article. It was still there on the web a month later, intact and incorrect for all to read and believe.
In a Prius, and I assume a TCH, you CAN get to 20
MPH (or higher) using only electric (in D, not R

) if you are
REALLY light on the accelerator and
IF there is
NO 'up' component. But in REAL driving, the ICE is going to kick in almost immediately, like at 1 or 2
MPH. That is actually the way you
want it to work
most of the time. Let's say you want to get to 35
MPH (~51 ft/sec) and maintain that speed. Which is more efficient, using electric to get to 35
MPH then ICE to stay there because you drew the battery down or the other way around?
Consider Newton's second law of physics, reduced for basic computation:
Force = mass * acceleration
- Using weight of TCH & driver = 4000 pounds
- Constant acceleration of 5 MPH from 0 to 35 MPH in 7 seconds, traveling ~205 feet.
- I made up a constant acceleration value of .25 MPH to overcome air and rolling friction. Since it is 'lost' energy, it results in no net change to the acceleration, and therefore velocity (speed).
- By the way, without a fairly steep hill or a switch to force EV, there is NO WAY you could achieve a constant 5 MPH acceleration.
Assuming a level surface and nothing to make you stop or slow down:
From 0 to 35
MPH:
4000 * 5.25 * 7 = 147000 units to go ~205 feet.
Once at 35
MPH:
4000 * .25 = 1000 units to go ~51 feet or 357 feet every 7 seconds.
You can use 147,000 force units from the battery to go 205 feet, then the ICE kicks in to maintain 35
MPH because you have depleted the battery.
OR
You can use 147,000 units from the battery to maintain 35
MPH for 147 seconds traveling ~7500 feet.
You probably won't have to travel 7500 feet on ICE at 35
MPH to replentish the battery to where the car will use it but it is going to take a heck of a lot longer than the 205' you got using the battery at the start.
Running the ICE to get the required 1000 force units is horribly ineffecient, otherwise all vehicles would get
great mileage at 35. Even an 8000# H2 would only need 2000 units/second in this example though I'm sure the air and rolling resistance is MUCH higher. That is why ICE only vehicles get better mileage at 50
MPH than 25
MPH. Full hybrids are 'flipped' because they can get some 'free' distance with the engine off at lower speeds.
You might have situations where EV first IS better. Say as soon as you get to 35
MPH you will hit a long downhill where you will be coasting, braking or even in 'B' mode. You might be able to refill the battery without the ICE needing to run at all.
One place on my commute where I force EV has 4 stop signs about 200 feet apart in a 25
MPH zone. For any reasonable acceleration, the ICE will kick in. Not at all efficient so I use the battery and probably about a 3
MPH acceleration. The next section is somewhat downhill so it ends up being 'coast and car initiated EV'.