OIL CHANGE - final questions re. interval and oil weight... chime in! - Page 2 - GreenHybrid

skywagon · #11 (**permalink**) 12-30-2006, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prius2Camry

Hey Skywagon,

That is neither a joke nor a troll. I was given this insight from the chief metalurgist at one of the world's major motor companies. So ignore or belittle it at your risk.

Well I am a chief metalurgist and your blowing smoke (and I won't say where) , same old tales of slick oil making bearings ride over the top of each other ROTFFLMAO

Big-Foot · #12 (**permalink**) 12-30-2006, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prius2Camry

I do not use synthetic oil because I do not drive my hybrid every day or two. Synthetic oils are so slippery that if a vehicle sits unstarted for 3 or more days, the oil will drain off those critical and not quite so critical parts. The thought of starting the ICE without many of the parts being properly lubricated makes me shudder! Can you say rapid, excessive engine wear?

Synthetic Oil is synthetically blended hydrocarbons that is virtually identicle chemically to Fossil / Dino / (insert your favorite term) oil with the exception of having less impurities and inert ingredients in it.
Synthetic oil is more stabile over a more broad temperature range since its blending can be controlled to a far greater degree.
Synthetic oils viscosity index improvers are blended in during the process of it's creation rather than after is being refined.
Synthetic oil will cling longer to metal than will it's non-synthetic counterpart due to it's smaller and more precise molecular makeup.
This makes synthetic lubricants more resistant to dry starts than non-synthetic lubricants.
This came from a senior petro-chemical engineer for Ashland Oil Company. The oils they blend are sold under a variety of labels. The most common are Valvoline and Quaker State (licensed producer).

My money's on Synthetics. I use them exclusively in my racecars and street driven vehicles. Matter of fact, I've even taken to using synthetics in my Air-Compressors in the shop and trailer.

The Critic · #13 (**permalink**) 01-03-2007, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leepark

So if the recommend interval for an oil change is 5000 miles (8000 kms) based on regular (not synthetic) 5W20 or 0W20, and assuming you follow this recommendation what are the benefits to using synthetic (at a higher cost)?

Most of the reasons I've come across thus far for using synthetic has been that you can extend the recommended interval. But if you change every 5000 miles this argument is thrown out the window.

If you are using synthetic, why? If you're using regular, why?

Which weight (5W20 or 0W20) are you using? Why? Are your reasons based on the climate of where you live?

Is regular 5W20 and regular 0W20 priced differently? I was told by a local dealership that the 0W20 is more than the 5W20.

1. Possibly improved fuel efficiency at extremely low temperatures (< 0F) and improved cold weather pumpability. For a lot of people, it's also peace of mind knowing that they are using a top quality oil that has a greater margin of error compared to a lesser oil.
2. I currently use Chevron 5W30 in the other vehicles as I do not own a TCH. I can buy this at Kragen Auto Parts for $0.59/qt after rebate, $1.09/qt before. I haven't seen any 5W20 at the store, but I'm sure they could order a case for me.
3. I would probably use 5W20 for cost reasons. See above.
4. (Read what I wrote below)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ag4ever

Is there a non synthetic 0w20?

If so, that is what I will use.

Doesn't really exist, so to speak. From my talks with an oil blender, he states that the viscosity properties of 0W20 requires mostly Group III base stock to blend, so at the very least, the oil will be mostly synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils are identical. Oil companies will generally use the top notch additive package in their synthetic oils as they are their flagship products. The additive package will be better than those found in their entry-level mineral oils. For the Toyota 0W20 found at the dealership, ExxonMobil may or may not be using their top notch additive package in that oil...I'm suspecting not as they are not marketing that product to satisfy long drain intervals needed by some other makes/models using 0W20 (i.e. Honda)...only Toyota's 5000 mi drain interval. This may be why the product costs much less than Mobil 1 0W20. (My local dealership (Maita Toyota of Sacramento) has Toyota 0W20 on sale for $2.99/qt quite regularly, compare this to $5.99/qt for Mobil 1 0W20 at Walmart.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prius2Camry

I do not use synthetic oil because I do not drive my hybrid every day or two. Synthetic oils are so slippery that if a vehicle sits unstarted for 3 or more days, the oil will drain off those critical and not quite so critical parts. The thought of starting the ICE without many of the parts being properly lubricated makes me shudder! Can you say rapid, excessive engine wear?

If anything, synthetic oils have better film strength than conventional oils.