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Originally Posted by SPL
1. If you look at the LCD displays (both radio and climate control in the non-NAV; climate control only in the NAV) through polarized sunglasses, you’ll find that the angle at which the display is most clearly visible is around 30 degrees counter-clockwise from horizontal.
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This would require a standard that automakers and sunglass makers agree to follow. I have different pairs of polarized sunglasses that work differently, and vary from car to car. A standard here might be a great idea!
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4. The wheel icon in the Multi-Function Display in the dash isn’t circular.
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This is more a matter of aesthetics. Getting things like this technically right, often make them less pleasing to look at, and the technical errors are not usually noticed by most.
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6. The heating/cooling fan starts up briefly for ~0.5 second, and then stops, when one starts the car with the engine cold and the ambient temperature below 0 degrees C (32 degrees F). Why?
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This is just a guess, but perhaps the duct (or other] air needs to be displaced to properly measure the inside or outside air temps due to the placement of the temp sensors, so that the best start up cycle can be determined.
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8. The knock-out wire pass-through holes in the console box (below the climate controls) is too small for some power adapters to fit through.
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It was obviously designed for wires, not power adapters. Larger knock-outs create other issues (like letting other things pass the wire when the adapter is not filling the hole!), and would still exclude even larger adapters. Power adapters can be installed behind the knock-outs, and the wires will still come through, although some minor wire surgery may be required!
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9. The center console’s lid does not stay open when raised.
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Mine does! Complain to dealer at next service.
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10. The driver’s seatbelt catches on the lower plastic protrusion on the LHS of the driver’s seat, if the seat is moved fairly far forwards (e.g., for a short driver such as me). [and]
11. Unused front seatbelt buckles knock against the plastic B-pillar moldings as one drives, causing an annoying noise.
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The only vehicle that I've ever owned (of over a dozen/half dozen different makes) that properly managed most aspects of seat belt handling was an 850 Volvo. This Camry rates far higher than most of my other cars, including my previous Lexus GS.
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12. The power sockets are too tight and/or deep.
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I believe this is a case where standards are not strict enough, or strictly enough followed. Some plugs are too tight, and some are too loose. It is not Toyota's fault that so much variance needs to be accommodated (not that the accommodation could not be improved somewhat.
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16. The car’s cruise control behavior on level ground is fine, but on rolling hills it’s totally egregious, and indicates to me that this feedback control system may be close to instability.
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As I noted before, my cc does not have this problem (as my last Mercedes did, only MUCH worse that was described by any here. My MB dealer said mine was within spec and refused to make it work acceptably. Others here have been told the same by their Toyota dealer. I say this should be escalated at the dealer and force Toyota to fix it. The fact that mine works so well is enough evidence that it can and should work well.
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17. The Automatic Sound Levelizer (ASL) system appears not to work when switched “on”
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Mine does work, but not as well as the one in my Lexus worked. The Lexus had an ambient noise measurement that adjusted the ASL. Just putting down the window at speed would increase the ASL boost. The TCH ASL seems to be strictly a function of car speed, and gives less boost than I am used to. However, it does work in my THC, and is much better than no ASL. For the most part, I do not need to adjust the radio volume as I am driving, as I would without it. Perhaps if one listens to the radio much louder or softer than I, then the ASL may not work as well for them. It certainly could work better, as my Lexus did. (Or, maybe it just doesn't work with country music-I wouldn't know!

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-- Alan