I'm sure it depends upon where you live and the weather conditions. I live in mild California and I park my car in the garage. I'm sure I have to wax it less frequently than someone who lives in more extreme climates and parks outissde. Like I said, the manual said monthly which just plain isn't going to happen. --benny

I don't use wax... but I use the NXT system. I can go for about 3 month-5month between applications. What I usually do is stack them up come winter time so I have about 3-4 coats to get me through the worst stuff. My paint job looks better then new (2005 Mini Cooper S). I wish I would have been this way with my HCH. But it too doesn't look that bad either.

How much does the NXT system cost and how much work is it to apply?

You can find it at any auto shop. I think I paid around $20 for it. The key is to start off with a "clean" car... so wash it and clay it... and then rewash. Then dry it. Now you are starting off with a clean car. At this point applying the NXT is pretty easy. It goes on easy, and comes off just as easy

http://www.meguiars.com/?liquid-car-...ation-Tech-Wax

There is a spray that you can apply later on. So when you wash the car the next time. Dry off the car, the apply the spray. Which is even easier to you than the wax.

http://www.meguiars.com/?spray-car-w...tion-Spray-Wax

You can go nuts a by the whole NXT line...

I have the tech-wax and spray and can attest that they work. Very well... and no I don't work for them or anything related to car products.

Ok, I feel dumb...what do you mean by "clay it"?

don't feel that way... it's a more "advanced" cleaning technique. It's a clay bar that is sold for detailing your car. The key to claying is to wash your car thoroughly... then follow the instruction of the package.

I use:
http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla.html

but mcquires also has a clay bar too.

Once the car is washed properly, you want to look for spots where the water beads off or wrinkles, this usually means you have some particles stuck to the pant. It could be dirt, tar, whatever. These tend to not be completely visible to the eye but can be felt on the paint with your hand. This is where claying comes in.

Some people clay their entire car which is fine, it just takes a longer time... But you get use to where you can skip over because the clay bar moves smoothly over "clean" areas and will grab on "dirty" areas.
The key to claying is to not drop the clay bar, if you do, make sure to get out all the dirt. You are probably better off throwing away chunks of clay you are not sure of, or buy a new clay bar if it's really bad. If you don't you will only end up scratching your car. The other BIG step in claying is be extremely generous with the spray. You can also use a mixture of soap and water. This acts as a lubricant. You cannot use enough so don't think you are applying too much. Just make sure it's wet.

Livvie,

Ok, so if I understand all this you do the following:

1. Wash the car well.
2. "Clay it"
3. Wash the car again.
4. Dry the car.
5. Use the wax and spray (NXT)

This should be done every few months or less depending on weather (of course as you know here in the North East you can't do much November - March). If you get a lot of salt at least wash the car after a major salting.

How long does it generally take you do to do this process? Do you hand wash the car? I would hope it can be done one good ol' Saturday.

Thanks,
Mike

Yes. you have the steps correct. The above steps are if you have a new car. If your car is older there is whole set of new steps.

Here is what I do:

1. Wash car with DAWN (blue bottle). Yes this is not a recommended step if you are not going to do the following steps right after. Do NOT use dishwashing detergent when washing your car on a regular basis. I use DAWN only because I want to get everything including older wax off my car.

2. "Clay it". Leave car wet from the wash in step 1. Following instructions on box. Don't use a ton of pressure to get anything off. Inspect your clay bar for any particles. Remove them as to not scratch your paint. Use plenty of claying spray or a mixture of soap and water.

3. Wash car with CAR WASH (car wash contains ingrediants that help the paint of your car).

4. Dry car with micro fiber towels... they make them for car detailing and you can buy them at SAM's club. The edge is not hard as to not scratch car. If you don't get them, fold towel in a matter that your edge of towel is hidden.

5. Follow NXT instructions. There is a foam applicator. Do not drop this on ground. If you do make sure to wash and dry it off. Do a section at a time, or do the entire car, I forgot which method I use. Follow instructions on this one. I use micro fiber towel to remove "wax" as well.

6. To remove any remaining residue. I use the NXT finishing spray with a micro fiber towel (clean).

Step 5 takes about 1 hour for a MINI Cooper. Step 6 takes about 15 min. If I'm feeling ambitious. I'll do step 5 again.

If the weather holds up, the following weekend, I will just wash and spray. From this point on, do not use DAWN again. Do this as your first wash of the year.

When do you draw the line between "new" and "old" car? After a year?

Good question, it's more on how well you maintained the paint. If you see swirls all over your paint... it's too late... that would be old. If the paint is still very smooth then you are good to go.

Old steps:

You will probably need to buy some product to remove as many of the scratches as possible. (ScratchX) is one. The idea is to fix your clearcoat valleys. This is accomplished by buffing your car with some polish. Lot more work in this... and you should probably get somebody that's done the before to show you what to do and not do. You could end up harming your paint more if you are not very careful.

If the scratches are few and far between, then a hand buffing is not out of the question and it's hard to screw that up. But it's very time consuming. Once you are done with all that... you can follow steps 5 and 6 listed above.