Since the drive belt is continuously turning the water pump, is there really a necessity to have the heater on High? TIA.

 

Your water pump is turning and pumping water but the heater core does not get a supply of water unless the bypass valve is opened by the ventilation control system. The heater core will drain but not fill unless water forces the air in the heater core out of the system.

You will not get a complete fill of the cooling system without it.

 

Thanks for the explanation.

Are there photos available showing the location of the 2 petcocks if I want to just drain the coolant off and refill? Is it necessary that I open the covers underneath to get to them or to drain? TIA.

 

GeorgiaHybrid or others: Started to remove my water pump today and for the life of me, cannot get the pulley bolts lose on the waterpump. I have a long prior bar that I stuck between 2 bolts to keep the pulley from spinning while trying to losen, but still can't get them lose. In fact, started to mess the head up a small bit on one of the bolts. The 12mm wrench I'm using isn't very long so don't get a lot of leverage, but afraid even if I had more leverage, I might round the heads even more. I'll try and use some WD40 or PB Baster, but don't see how this would help much since you aren't getting any on the threads themselves -- maybe if you sprayed some in behind the pulley you might get a little on the theads. Any suggestions on getting these bolts lose? Are they reverse threated by any chance?

 

Disregard. I did finally get the bolts lose. I did have to apply a lot of pressure (all I had) to the small 12mm open end wrench (actually I used the closed end) to get them to budge. I'll never be able to get them as tight when putting back together. Sure would of helped if I had an open end wrench that was about 3 - 4 inches longer to give me more leverage. Don't even know if they make them. I had a socket wrench but was not shallow enough to fit into the tight area.

 

Tom,

There are times that you need a long wrench for more leverage. You will also find out if you continue to work on a lot of cars that pro level tools will do a LOT in the way of not rounding off bolts, breaking things loose without slipping and having specialty tools to do a particular job.

The downside is that good, pro level tools are VERY expensive but will last a lifetime. I have had some of my Snap-on, Mac and Matco tools since the early '70s and they are still as good as the day I bought them (or they were replaced when they did break...)

In this case, one of the first "non standard" wrench sets that I bought was an extra long boxed end/open end wrench set...

 

I'm familar with professional (snap-on) and very heavy duty tools as my brothers have them on the farm which is about 90 miles away. Cheap tools just don't seem to hold up and break. But here at the house where I don't normally work on anything that needs the best tools ... but would have helped today. On a side note ... did you happen to notice that the OEM pump had 7 fins for moving the water versus the GMB pump which only had 6 (not sure what those thing-a-ma-jigs are called but look like little fins -- perhaps an impeller)? Other than that, they look the same and hope that doesn't mean the antifreeze won't be moved as well and the car runs hotter ....

 

The impeller design on the GMB has worked fine on my Camry for the past few years including surviving a summer in downtown Atlanta traffic without ever running hot. Remember that the impeller will only move water long enough to replace what is in the block with cooler water from the radiator while the thermostat is open.

As far as tools go, I will ALWAYS have one set of extra long, zero offset boxed end wrenches that were designed to remove flywheels. They aren't needed all of the time, but when they are needed, they will save hours of time and untold amounts of blood from busted knuckles.....

Every car I own has a set of what I call "secondary" tools that are the lower tier pro tools made overseas for the major companies. I happen to use several boxed sets of Blue Points (made for Snap-on in Taiwan) and one set of Silver Eagles (made for Matco in Taiwan). Cruise your local pawn shops and you would be surprised at some of the deals you can get if you are there at the right time. I am very lucky however as I have a lift, commercial air compressor, welders, and a nice tool box available to me at home.

 

I'd love to have your garage lift and assortment of premium tools!! But then I might have to do more work on my vehicles to justify it. I'm trying to stay retired ... but on occassion when the stealer just wants too much money, I'll give it an attempt if not too difficult since I do have extra time on my hands. I'll finish the water pump sometime today and hopefully won't have to worry about this again for another 60 - 100k miles (if I keep the car that long!).

 

I'm prepping to do a coolant replacement, but I can't seem to find the engine block petcock. Any hints guys?