Well, it's finally happened. the Traction battery won't function, even after resetting the codes, or disconnecting the 12v battery and reconnecting it to reset the system. The car starts and runs on the 12v battery, the obvious red battery light on below about 1500 rpm.

I just can't afford a replacement battery, gonna have to drive it short distances as is for the forseeable future. Any pointers? I have NO MONEY for any parts. Will driving this to work and back eventually drain the 12v battery? I can periodically put it on a charger if needed. This is a high mileage car, I discovered the weak traction battery after I purchased the car, yet have been able to nurse it along by resetting codes, ever so often, but leaving it parked for 5 days did it. Without the hybrid system online, there is no way I assume for the engine to put any juice back into it.

 

You need grid charger to have any hope of it lasting or recovering.
You can build one for <$100

But if you have no money that's it you will be likely walking shortly.

Manually charging the 12V will keep you going a bit longer but whenever the ign light is on the 12v is not charging. Avoid driving at night with lights etc and keep electrical loads to a minimum.

 

Well, I could afford a grid charger, just not even a salvage battery. Any good links to build one? I have electronics experience.

 

Do some searching on insight central.

You basically need 2 x 90v 300ma constant current power supplies in series.

To drive the hch1 fan you need.

1 x 12V 3A Fan driver
1 x pwm output device to drive the hch1 fan.

Or bolt a computer fan or cowl over the battery vent on rear parcel shelf.

 

I have been driving my 2004 CVT HCH with an inoperative IMA system due to a bad battery for the last 25k-30K miles. As you say, the lead acid battery doesn't charge below about 1500RPM and above about 4k RPM.

My own commute is 55 miles one way so it hasn't been an issue.

If I happen to be doing a lot of city driving and it's raining (lights and wipers on etc) then it can be an issue when stopped. In those occasional instances I'll set the hand brake while I wait for the light (etc), put the shift in "N" and gently rev the RPM's up to 2.5K to 3k RPM to keep it charging.

If I did a lot of city driving then I'd externally charge the battery as others have said.

You can build a battery charger from junk parts you probably have laying around your house. An old 12v laptop power supply rated at least 3a should work in a pinch. If you can find a 120v primary, 12v secondary 3a transformer then you can charge the battery through a bridge rectifier rated at least the amperage as your transformer.

Those make-shift chargers won't be regulated correctly (or at all) so you'll need to be sure you don't overcharge the battery. Accurate battery hydrometers are expensive. But you can check your battery with a meter.

1. Let the car battery sit without load or charging for at least 2 hours.
2. Read the car battery with a digital volt meter:

12.6v = full charge
12.4v = 75%
12.2v = 50%
12.0v = 25%
11.8v = dead

*Check the water level in each of the 6 cells, add distilled water if necessary. Don't let the charge get below 50%. Don't let it sit below full charge for extended periods.*

Also buy a regulated 12v battery charger (when you can) and plug it in at night.

 

I have seen many posts like this from people who think their batteries are dead. I was in a similar situation but found a method to reset get the Main battery back into action and all is well. Try this, assuming you still have the car. Drive down a quiet level or slightly downhill street about 15 mph. Turn off the ignition for 2 secs and then back on. See my post "Battery not charging? Easy way to reset IMA control modules."
https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...modules-30339/ true story