Ok, I've read that these codes mean my IMA battery is likely shot. But here's my question:
My car: 2004 HCH, Manual, 110k miles

I JUST replaced my O2 air/fuel sensor (the wideband, front sensor, the expensive one). Like, JUST changed it. In 15 miles driving time, all of a sudden CEL came on and IMA light. Codes thrown were p1600 and p1433. Cleared them and they immediately came back. Battery charging is erratic (increases when I'm draining it going uphill, drains quickly, etc). IMA is practically non-existent in its help. Checked fuses and they were fine.

So, I just changed the air/fuel sensor b/c of code p0134, or whatever code says no signal from front O2 sensor. Also had a p2000pd code for awhile now, and every once in a while the p2000 would trip and set off CEL. I would just clear it. So I finally got tired of it and changed the O2 sensor. 15 miles later those codes are gone, and the expensive ones are now there.

My question: is there any way that I could have done something to cause this? Seriously, all I did was unplug the old sensor and plug in the new. Bought a Bosch part #13680 that is supposedly for my car:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Vehicl...20ELECTRIC/GAS

Could there (hopefully) be another cause to these codes?

 

Do you think it possible the P0134 code could have been masking the 1433 (bad battery) code and once you fixed the O2 problem then you were able to see the 1433?

 

It's possible, but I don't see how the two would at all be related. One has to do with emissions, the other the IMA. I didn't always have the 0134 either. It came and I would clear it and it would show up a month or so later. It was the p2000 (NOx levels) that made me change the O2 sensor, as I know the cat isn't bad.

To go off topic, many people complain that these cars have defective Catalytic converters, which isn't true. They get the p2000 and they assume the cat isn't working, because that is the initial interpretation of that signal. You'll notice in blogs that they say the change the cat, and 20-30k miles later the signal will come back. I've heard stories of people on their 3rd cat at 120k miles! What is defective is the wideband front sensor. It is only good for 20-30k miles, and it'll work ok for 80-100k. The issue here is: the two sensors work in concert. If a 10% difference is noticed between the exhaust going in the cat and going out the cat, it trips the p2000 code saying the cat is bad. On a regular car, 10% is hard to reach. In a hybrid, where the emissions are already 10% of a normal car, it trips VERY easy. If the first sensor is a little off, it's going to throw the code. So you replace the O2 sensor, and off goes the p2000.

I was resetting my p2000 code and ignoring it because I didn't want to pay $120 for a new O2 sensor. When it started throwing the p0134 code (no signal from front sensor), I knew it was time for a replacement. I cleared it once and it came back a month later, so I figured, why not. It was annoying me. So I changed it. 15 miles later, the 1433 code comes up. I honestly don't see how emissions are linked to battery state.

However, there is a followup to this:
I was thinking that maybe because I didn't disconnect the negative battery terminal, that maybe I fried something. I have no idea how, as it is a connector and I wasn't wiring anything in, it's more like pulling a fuse and putting it back. But I read others who disconnected the 12V battery with the p1433 code, and it caused it to go away. I didn't do this. What I did do was go through my fuses and pull and check every IMA and computer fuse. I even pulled the IMA fuse, started the car, and then checked the circuit and it was working. BUT, the IMA light was out and only the CEL on (obviously because the fuse was pulled, but just wait. I put the fuse back, restarted the car, and again, CEL on and no IMA light. I pulled the codes and I got a U0110 (can not communicate with drive motor A) and P1433 (probably residual). The U0110 was because I pulled its fuse and put it back, remember. So I cleared the codes. I took the car for a drive and the assist meter wasn't going anywhere and the car was not assisting, but it was charging the battery. SOC was dancing around. I go around the block and come uphill again. This time, the assist meter was working and so was the IMA assist. I pull in at home and still no CEL, pull codes and have none.
My wife drove the car to work today (~11 miles) and car was fine, no codes, no CEL. We'll see how it does on the drive back.
Perhaps I tweaked the computer with the new O2 sensor and it is adjusting and throwing other things out of whack that may self-correct???? I can only hope.....

 

Ok, so codes came back. I cleared them again and the last 2 days my car has behaved nearly flawlessly. My solution is to just keep clearing the codes as they come back. Better than paying $2000 for a replacement battery

 

Only downside to your solution (and mine also by the way) is that continuing to drive with an out of balance battery supposedly does more damage to an already bad battery. I would conclude that this might matter if you ever plan on having the battery repaired by replacing "bad sticks" and trying to get the battery back in balance. This is discussed a lot over on the Insight forum (the older Insights have the same battery). Since the cost of repair is a function of how many bad sticks are replaced (up to some maximum cost if all are replaced) driviing and doing further "damage" might run the cost of repair up. Just a guess on my part though.

 

On day 3 and codes have not returned. Car is still operating flawlessly. I wonder if anyone else has changed out their O2 sensor and experienced something similar. I know that it takes time for the ECM to adjust to the new sensor, but throwing a battery degraded code seems a little extreme of an adjustment. Let's hope it stays away.

 

You need to look up the Honda service bulletin 07-036.
This covers the update to you onboard computer. If it has not been updated you will continue to get the P2000 code. I believe the dealership has to do this for free. It's a problem with the computer misinterpreting sensor inputs as your sensors deteriorate.

The IMA codes are probably from your battery getting imbalanced. You can drive it but it will probably get to where your not getting anything out of it.

I have all the same codes you have. I'm going to check on the PC update but the battery I am going to keep driving until it's shot. Then I will get a new one. It's at 130K on milage. Kinda sucks but it's the price you pay for a semi-new technology.