Step 1. Let engine cool COMPLETELY. This is important as to get the correct valve lash clearance.
Step 2. Remove the "IMA" cover by simply pulling up. After this is removed, you'll see two 10mm bolts holding on the intake cowl. Remove these two bolts, and pull up and out the intake cowl.
Step 3. Remove the 8 spark plug coil/caps by removing the 10mm cap nut on each one, and un-clipping the connector for each. Pull straight up on them to remove. Remove the front 4 spark plugs. Remove the accelerator cable holder bolt, and vent hose. I marked these with arrows below.
Step 4. Pull the rubber spark plug wire harness 'thingie' up, and tie out of the way of the valve cover. I used a rubber band to hold it out of the way. See below.
Step 5. Remove the 8 valve cover bolts (the locations are marked below with arrows). You may have to pry the rubber caps on the bolts with a screwdriver to remove. Gently tap the valve cover with a rubber mallet to 'break loose' the gasket. Remove valve cover.
I labelled the above photo with cylinder number, and also the locations of the individual valve adjusters (with circles).
Step 6. In order to rotate the engine to adjust the individual cylinders, I jacked up my right front tire, and put the gear shift (Manual Tranny) in 4th. I think you can do the same with an automatic tranny? I dunno.
Anyway, you have to rotate the wheel and look at the cam gear for #1 TDC, of Top Dead Center of the #1 piston. You'll see in the photo below, the letters "UP" and a horizontal set of hash marks, which should be parallel to the cylinder head surface. Now you can adjust the #1 cylinder!
Step 7. Adjust the valves. In the photo above, I maked the area to place your feeler guage (long arrow).
Valve Clearance:
Intake: 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007inches)
Exhaust: 0.24-0.28mm (0.009-0.011inches)
Slide the feeler guage into the gap between the tappet top, and adjuster bottom. You have the correct "size" when you can slide the guage out, but with some resistance. The next size guage up shouldn't fit at all. The adjustment itself is done by loosening the 10mm nut (circled above), and turning the screw in - or out. Like I mentioned, about HALF my vlaves were loose, ie; I had to tighten the screws. After adjusting the valve, hold your screwdriver so it doesn't move, and re-tightnen the 10mm nut. That's it. Do both #1 intake, and exhaust valves with the cam gear in the position show.
Step 8. Rotate the tire (slightly!) clockwise until you see the next number appear on the cam gear. It should be #3. See below.
Ok, so it's a bad photo. The number is at the top, and you have the same hash marks to align horizontally. Repeat Step #7 for both #3 valves.
Do it all over again for cylinders #4 and #2.
Step 9... After adjusting all 8 valves, check all adjstment nuts are tight (~18ft/lbs), and clean the valve cover mating surfaces. Replace your 4 front spark plugs. Actually, now would be a GREAT time to replace your plugs anyway! Lower wheel jack. Put a 'smear' of gasket sealant on the rubber valve cover gasket, and put the cover back on. Install the 8 cover bolts, and tighten - NOTE: These don't have to be very tight at all. Snug is it. Replace the spark plug wire harness thingie, cable clamp, vent hose, and spark plug coil/caps. Re-connect coil connector clips. Replace covers.
That's it. Let the 'smear' of gasket sealant set up for 10-15 minutes, then fire up the engine.
Enjoy your Honda Dealer savings of over $300!
Re: Valve Adjustment/Timing Belt?
