The Other Day The Break System Light (amber) Came On
At Least Three Different Times During 1 Ride. It Of Course Would
Go Out If I Turned The Car Off. My Wife Drove It A Few Miles And Said The Light Came Back On. I Started It And It Was Off, And Has
Not Come Back On. Should I Be Concerned?

Thanks
Brian
Hchii

Hmmm, your typing style makes me want to send a deposit to your Nigerian bank account.

Is it the Emergency BRAKE Light? I'd make sure that's all the way off.

If that's not it, I'd definately make a trip to the dealer.

Good luck, nf

http://greenhybrid.com/compare/mileage/car/3686.html
Retired
http://greenhybrid.com/compare/mileage/car/4955.html

according to the quickstart guide, that light means there is an issue with the regenerative braking system, you should take it in to the dealer to get checked out.

I will be taking it in to the dealer this Thursday. When the light is on no auto-stop, and now the car difficult to get out of park. The Shift lock seems whooie.

I will let you all know

Brian

It sounds to me like the Break Light is Braken! I was talking to a friend of my in the office brake rum and he told me one time when he broke, his break light did come on either. It looks like they are easy to Brake!

Please stop capitalizing every letter that your write, it distracts from what you are trying to say.

Do you have a Scanguage plugged in? I had a problem on my old HCHII where every warning light appeared on the dashboard, and the IMA was disabled.

If not, I would recommend taking the car to your dealer for diagnosis.

This could easily be related to the TSB about over-greasing the Telescoping Steering Wheel. Ask your dealer if that TSB has been corrected on your car.

Steve

STOP terrorism - Drive a HYBRID

Vehicles:
350 miles a week ------------ 2006 HCH II, Magnetic Pearl, w/NAVI (born on May 25, 2006)
350 miles a month ---------- 2003 Mazda Tribute ES-V6
350 miles a year (for now) - 1986 Mercedes 560SL

i forgot about that one, I ask for all TSBs and SSCs at every service

Here is a quick update. Car still at the dealer, but the break system light "on" was caused by the recalled "over greasing of the telescoping steering wheel". While it was at the shop the window driver side front stopped working, replaced switch and lubed window channel.

But here is the big issue told dealer about tsb on rear control arms and the noise. Told me that having 44 psi in the tires had caused the feathering on the "outside edge" of the tires? They will replace the both rear bearing as they were bad, and that might be the noise. The bearings are on back order should have them today. Dealer said that the car was designed to have the tires at 32 psi only?

At least now I have a complaint about the TSB in there system. I will not let the tires go bad before they fix the control arms!!!

Brian

Glad the TSB took care of your shifter and brake light issue.
When mine was acting up (long ago, now), I had very similar symptoms:
Brake System Light (yellow) was on,
Autostop alomst never worked, if ever, and
the shifter got stuck in Park, and did so increasingly over time.

This all occurred over a period of about a week or so, as I recall.


Control Arm TSB issue:
First 3 questions.
How many miles on the car?
How many miles on these tires?
Are your rear tire treads wearing faster on the inside, outside, or in the center?

When trying to get Honda to do something on their dollar, you cannot give them any reason to claim that it is somehow your issue instead of theirs. You should remove K&N filters, lower your tire pressures to mid 30s, remove solar panels, etc. Don't give them any built-in excuses.
With this particular TSB, you know they are going to be looking at your tires for irregular wear (rightfully or not), so don't have them aired outside their recommended range. 32 is a very common number for recommended tire pressures.

I'd try to see if they will spring for an alignment check/correction. The numbers they get initially, plus the likelihood that they'll have a hard time getting the car to align, may (just maybe) convince them that this really is the bad control arm issue.

Your rear tires should be wearing (cupping) more on the inside with iths problem (not the outside). This, too, is a sign of the bad control arms. Overinflation does not cause this, Overinflation may cause the center of the tread to wear more than on the edges. I don't think it causes the outer edge to wear more. That's more a sign of under-inflation. It sounds to me like they fed you a big story and they hooked you - temporarily.

Rear tire droning noises are also a sign.

Simply that fact that the wrong-spec'd control arms are ON your car, means they SHOULD replace them for folks that complain. (Heck, they SHOULD replace them, period, but that's another matter).

There is another thread here that has a lot of info about the bad control arm issue. Read up, maybe something there will help. Maybe just finding another dealer service department will do the trick. Good luck!

Steve

STOP terrorism - Drive a HYBRID

Vehicles:
350 miles a week ------------ 2006 HCH II, Magnetic Pearl, w/NAVI (born on May 25, 2006)
350 miles a month ---------- 2003 Mazda Tribute ES-V6
350 miles a year (for now) - 1986 Mercedes 560SL