Just 2 weeks ago I purchased a 2008 GMC Yukon from a dealer, it's been great so far. Parked it in a covered condo garage. Overnight, next morning, It won't start. Kind of frustrated, my good ol 2000 Ford Excursion with 160K miles cranked EVERY day. I only upgraded to have a newer car.

Here are the points:

1. All other electric components worked, AC, XM, video display, lights etc.
2. When I turned key, all components continued to work; but engine did nothing.
3. When I released the forward pressure on key I received these errors on the different occasions, I tried to start car. "Service Stabilitrack", "Service Transmission" and "Service Hybrid Engine". I thought it odd that I got different message as I was trying several hours apart.


Today, I called tow truck to take it to local dealer, I have extended warrantee. Truck has 46K miles.

I'll post what I find, and drive my OLD dependable Excursion a few more days.

MRH

 

Info From this forum.

*2008 GM hybrids, some came with a lower/defective 12 volt battery. Check if yours is the 730CCA, 70Ah

*Manual states that you can't use any 12 volt accessory with the key switch in acc/on position. For using any accessory you should leave it in auto-start mode. That way the APM ( Accessory Power Module) to do the charging/feeding of all your electronics.

*if you not use your GM hybrid according the above, 12V battery can be drained from 1 to 15 minutes to 0% (under 10.2 V) and will not start the ICE (internal combustion Engine)

*Since GM hybrid come with a Wet Sealed Battery, as all batteries of this nature, taking it to 0% will short its life, and some time kill it instantly.
Now your 2008 is an used vehicle, and you can not be sure how the 12 volt battery was treated.

*Since the 12volt battery is used for controls and modules comm, all those messages might be to the failure of the 12 volt battery. The Hybrid system will need at least 5 minutes before disconnecting the 12 volt battery, this is for all the modules to achieve closure of their routines. (like windows when shutting down). Dead battery will be like disconnecting it before closure time.

Ask your dealer to test your 12Volt battery. Also for Charge retaining capability. Your GM hybrid don't use the power of the 12 V to start the engine, but it use it for reference and control. it must be over 11.8V to make a sure start.

Hope this help you as guidance with your dealer.

 

Make sure they get all the codes written down before any "clearing".

 

I had a similar experience on my 2009, it was the 12 volt battery. The dealer told me that with all the technology, if you ain't got a good battery, nothing else matters.

Additionally I was getting all kinds of weird messages "Service Stabilitrak" and "Service Brakes".

As soon as the battery was replaced, all was fine.

Good driving,
Paul

 

Thank you for all of the responses. It was the smaller cranking battery that was dead. Odd that the tow truck driver tested battery and said it was fine, tried to job battery and it still did not start.

Towed to dealer, they say it was battery, changed it and we were running.

I also had local body shop pull ugly HYBRID Stickers off of truck.

Thanks,

MRH

 

This also happened to me, in the middle of rush hour traffic, in front of madison square garden in NYC.

Stopped at the traffic light, engine shut off, 'service hybrid engine' code showed up, couldn't restart. As I was waiting for a tow truck, about 15-20 minutes passed, and she restarted up. Drove straight to a dealer.

They weren't sure what happened ... I was parked at a garage the night before so either the lights were left on and the battery drained, or someone messed with the Hybrid battery safety switch under the rear bench chair because it was apparently slightly loose.

The reason it takes a while to restart is because the computer shuts off the 2mode hybrid drive to protect it. Then it has to go through a lengthy reboot process to ensure all is operating properly before it allows the vehicle to restart. The dealer then has to plug in the laptop, run a full diagnostic, and reprogram some stuff, and it will clear the codes and will function properly.

I haven't had an issue since.

One side note I learned that day is that one can manually disable the hybrid drive by popping the hood. This is a safety mechanism that takes auto-stop off line so that someone working on the engine doesn't think the engine is off and hurt themselves if the engine kicks in from auto-stop. But this feature can also be used in short time frames to operate the vehicle without hybrid drive.

Cheers!

 

This sure sounds like what's happened to mine! Hi all, been a while without any issues, thankfully. Dealership says they can't figure it out. Haven't had time to visit here, but since they can't figure it out, always come here.

Here's the deal: 3 months ago, while filling up the tires, I had the ignition in the "on" position so I could see the PSI readout. By the time I finish, things ding, I get warning lights, including "service hybrid", try to start the car and it won't. Finally jump it and it goes. I have a sneaking suspicion that with the elapsed time, it finally reset itself.

Fast forward to New Years, of course: Wife is waiting at the airport to pick up friends, turns the car off, then puts key in "on" position to listen to the radio. When they get ready to go, same things happen from above. Jumped it eventually and took it to the dealership.

All they know is that there is/was a "communication problem" with the hybrid. Tried researching it (and they have done this before with a previous problem and some prodding from answers I got here) with GM history, but "nothing is wrong with the car", after putting 80 miles on it to repeat the problem. And they tested the 12V battery, it's good.

I think I'll be a little more wary of putting the key in the "on" position without having it running. If you think these codes point to anything else, please let me know. I'm getting the car back with no real answer. Will let you know if it happens again, and I'll check the battery type as well.

Codes:
U1862
P0562
P0513
P1AOC

Thanks, and happy New Year.

 

I had this issue with the battery as well. If you just leave the car "running" it will shut off and start up as needed. I have a heck of a time teaching that to friends but eventually they do get it.

 

U1862 Battery Energy Control Module Lost Communication With Communications Gateway Module
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0513 Incorrect Immobilizer Key
P1ADC Drive Motor A Control Module EEPROM Error

Running the 12 volt system low can and will cause you real trouble.

With the key in Accessory you are draining the 12V battery at anywhere from 20 to 35 amps depending on what you are running.

In Run but NOT running you can use 30 to 40 amps depending on what you are turning on.

In the OLD days you would burn up the breaker points if you left it in Run but NOT running.

If you are going to "tail gate" let it Auto-Stop and leave it running! 12 Volt "brown outs" can cause all sorts of nasty codes and conditions that most dealears have not seen yet.

 

Thanks guys. I'll be picking up the car today. Lesson learned. Makes a whole lot of sense after the fact!