You can ask around local GM dealers if they have done it on a hybrid. Like they say, they use self sealing screws. But unless there is a built in bolt receiver, I would be wary as the roof collects water and prone to moisture and rust.

 

I know this thread is very old but considering the recent posts, I thought I would add my .02 with some of the research I've done. First, there are a couple of options.

1. Add a factory rack at your local dealership. This will largely be dependent upon the dealer and their trust level in their body shop "guy". Many dealers will not touch this option at all. Factory weight limits are roughly 165lbs.
See this: http://www.gmpartseast.com/chevy/com...m99k10706.html

2. Add a Thule/Yakima/etc. brand of top rails, foot pods, rails. This option has been done by a company call RackAttack using both Thule and Yakima products. Option 1: http://rackattackboston.wordpress.com/2009/11/11/585/
Option 2: http://rackattackboston.wordpress.co...atlantis-1200/

Places like Dick's, REI, Academy Sports, etc., typically will not touch this type of installation because it requires puncturing the roof. Both of these options include silicone sealant and flare nuts to provide a good seal to the outside. As long as the silicone is applied correctly, you should be worry free.

Good luck.

PS., I personally will be installing the Thule system.

 

Isnt there another option where you can install a temporary rack the clips into the door sills/rain gutters ? Friend of mine has a Mazda CX9 also with no roof rack. He brought a big sea kayak to the beach last year and used this rack made from vehicles with no roof racks. It worked really well, very stable, and you only use it when you need to so you are not taking a permanent fuel mileage hit. I will try to find more info on it. It was an easy quick install, too.

 

Both Thule and Yakima produce foot pods for "Rain Gutters" and "Q-Clips" (not sure which is which). Those styles generally use a continuous Rain Gutter "Rail" which the Tahoe/Yukon does not have. The Q-clips would clip where the doors open/close which would cause the rack to be very far forward on the roof.

I'm no expert but I ruled out the rain gutter and q clip options because they won't work on my Yukon. The q-clips were going to be too far forward on the truck for my liking.

 

OK I just bought a whole set up from rack attack. I got the yakima version with 54" rails, 58" load bars, uprights, and kayak rack, and bike rack. I will tackle this all when it gets here. My only concern is getting the tracks installed straight.

I really like the features of the yakima rack system, you can simply unclip it and remove the uprights and load bars when you arent using them.

I will post up the install when i can ... the whole set up was $1025 so not cheap at all, but that did include a pretty nice kayak rack (sweet roll) and decent mtn bike rack (high roller) plus locks for everything.

Probably wasnt the cheapest way to go but I'll have about $5 grand riding on the roof for a thousand miles so I didnt exactly want to cheap out.

 

I bought the Thule top tracks, 460R podium feet, 3101 fit kit, and the 54" aero bars. The installation of the top tracks is by far the scariest thing I have ever done to modify my truck. This requires drilling into the roof and creating at least 8 holes to mount the tracks to. In preparation for this, I went to the dealership, checked out many of the tahoes/yukons that matched my body style, and I also asked the parts department to print out a schematic of the roof so I would know where to drill. I had no trouble drilling the holes and mounting the tracks. After a successful 1,000 mile trip with my Kayak mounted to the top, I am happy to say I am pleased with the result and would definitely do it again.

 

Can u post pic of where u mounted tracks? Or just let me know in relation to the sunroof. Thanks!

 

Sure. Hopefully these pictures will help. PS, I asked the dealer for a schematic of the roof and I also talked to the guys at RackAttack for a better idea of the proper placement of the tracks and the total number of flare nuts I would need to use. It's getting a little late here so these pics aren't going to be the best quality. Let me know if you'd like different pictures.

Edit: The flare nuts were placed at approximately 62.25", 50.25", 32.5", 13", and 8.25". And the tape measure was placed at the edge of the rear of the roof. Let me know if you'd like some clarification.

 

I think I would do the adhesive mount as I would have a hard time putting holes in the roof and worrying about drilling into something having the holes/screws get damaged from all the vibration and bumping in the thin sheet metal

 

Note that when you use adhesive, you are adhering to the paint, not the metal. When you use a hole/screw you are using the metal to secure the load. Granted there may be minimal chance the paint will separate from the metal.