Hi y'all,

First, THANK YOU to the creators of this website!! It is wonderful for someone who never really considered a hybrid before. And thank you to those who contribute on the forums.

So, after 7 years of driving a standard gas Camry and always having been a truck girl (gave up my truck due to poor fuel ecomony), I am now considering a used 2008 GMC Yukon Hybrid. I am so excited because it seems like it will really fit my family needs as well as anything else I might need it for!!

I have it narrowed down to one particular 2008 Yukon Hybrid with 115,000 miles on it. Who has a Tahoe/Yukon with >100K miles?? And should I be leery of buying such a high mileage hybrid??

I just don't really want to spend at least $10K more for 30K miles less on the truck...is this a wise decision??

 

Personally I would be weary to get a 100k + miles 2008 Hybrid.

Not because these trucks don't last a long time but simply because 2008 being their first year, it exhibits a lot more issues than trucks from subsequent model years. This combined with the fact that all applicable manufacturer's warranties have expired would give me pause. They don't break often but when they do it ain't cheap to fix 'em, especially in regards to hybrid drive components.

Again, many folks have had 2008s with little to no issues over the long term, but if it were me I'd look at a 2009 at the oldest MY and one that has at least a little bit left on its major power train/hybrid component warranties ... that way if something surprising pops up right after you purchase it, you can have it repaired without out of pocket expense.

Of course there are GM used vehicle warranties like Major Guard ... if you were to go the route you are describing with a high mileage 2008, I'd strongly recommend purchasing one if possible. Not some 3rd party warranty however, I'd only purchase a GM one.

Hope that helps a little.

Welcome to the forum.

 

Hyhoe, thank you for the reply. I agree, I have always heard that first year models are iffy at best. So I was reluctant. However, I found that 2008 was better for drivetrain reliability in searching online than 2009. Both rated high, but 2008 was highest in drivetrain reliability. That's very helpful information about the Major Guard- I didn't know that existed. Do you have any helpful suggestions while I'm test driving? Anything specific to look for?

I'm not a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but I was raised on 69 Camaros, and my first car (and only love) is my 69 Pace Car Camaro. I must admit I am uneducated when it comes to hybrids; however, y'all are helping me so much with these forums. Thank you for your patience with me.

 

Well I'm sure the reliability statistics you have found have validity, however I urge you to read through the archives of this sub-forum, where it will become evident to you rather quickly that a great multitude of the expressed issues revolve around MY2008 vehicles. At least, that has been my observation.

The key is to decipher and separate which issues are symptomatic of the 2 mode hybrid and which are general GMT900 related issues. For example door actuator failure, rear window rattles, peeling steering wheel, etc are well known issues across the entire GM full size SUV platform, hybrid or not. Other issues like hybrid drive system shutdown whilst driving and brake issues are hybrid specific. Again, my observation is that the latter are more frequent concerns on the 2008s.

However, although and ramble on, I'm probably the least qualified person to advise you here cause I sold my 09 hybrid with less than 30k miles on her, so I have no idea how these trucks are supposed to behave at the mileage you're looking at.

Hopefully someone with more experience in this regard can advise you on what to look for when you investigate a potential purchase.

Finally, let me also state that all of us were new at hybrid at one time, better known as hybridiots.

 

So glad to hear that I won't always be a hybridiot...haha...

Thank you for the insight. I guess I was just mainly wanting to hear from someone who had over 100,000 miles on their Yukon/Tahoe hybrid, if it started falling apart after 100K.
I know that 100,000 miles used to be all that you could expect out of a Chevy, and most American vehicles. I'm hoping that doesn't really hold true anymore. And yet again, I'm really hoping it doesn't hold true for hybrids.

So, if anyone with a Yukon/Tahoe hybrid that has more than 100,000 miles has any input, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance

 

well congrats in considering the hybrid two mode. I in fact have a 2009 escalade hybrid which i bought new in 2009 and now has 110,000 miles last time I checked. It is pretty reliable and the 8 years/100,000 mile warranty that the manufacturer gave to replace any hybrid component was never used as it never had any hybrid related component that broke. I got majorguard and used it in some issues that it took care of most of the issues but not all. there was a throttle body issue where it makes an unusual noise after turning off the vehicle and it was a throttle body and the dealer fixed it. they said the water pump was leaking and they replaced it without even me knowing it was leaking. the navigation system was giving some issues and the dealer replaced it after I updated the disc and it was not still working to my satisfaction. the only thing majorguard will not cover is the shocks which are pretty expensive about $800 total for the front parts and labor. the rear has been very reliable even at this miles.

 

I only use mobil 1 5w/30 which is recommended for these vehicles. if you have the service records from the dealer, that is even better.

 

Ok y'all, I did it!!! Yesterday after test driving a few yukon and tahoe hybrids, my husband and I settled on a 2008 tahoe hybrid with 130,000 miles. It had the most mileage, which we didn't like, but it also drove smoothest, rode smoothest, braked smoothest, and shifted smoothest. It looked, felt, drove and just all around acted like a new car. The story we got was that it was a one owner traded in at the Cadillac dealership across the road. And his story checked out with the carfax. So we drove home last night from Denton, TX, about a 100 mile trip. All went better than expected. Love this car!!! So awesome!!! So happy about our choice!!!

Fast forward to this morning: my husband drove it about 15 miles on his way to work when a dinger dinged and message flashed: "no oil pressure shut engine down immediately". Crap. I drove his truck to town with the chains, in case we had to drag it in to the local dealership. I am new to these kind of dipsticks, but the tech showed me how they worked, and yes, plenty of oil. All other fluids checked out good. The odometer message thing said it has 71% oil life left. And the tech said that looked about right.

So....any ideas?? I must admit that this has put a bit of lead in my balloon....should I call the banker and tell him to stop payment?? By the way, I think I got a really good deal. Paid $17000 and NADA is $24000. What do y'all think??

I'm sorry to be such a pain asking y'all all of this stuff. I'd ask my dad; he was the best 68-69 Camaro mechanic around. But he died when I was 8. So I really truly appreciate any advice y'all can help me with. Thanks.

P.S. my husband is disabled-had a car wreck when he was 17 and lost his right arm, so all this stuff is up to me. That's why I'm being such a pain.

 

Usually every used car comes with a 30 warranty where the dealer has to repair any defects.

I'd take it back to them asap and ask them to make it right.

I'm not sure what your rights are vis a vis stopping payment, usually the buyer is responsible for inspecting a vehicle before they buy it and most sales contracts will use the 'as is' terminology.

I hope you get is sorted out.

 

what did the tech say? it has oil then? he should check the oil pump for pressure and give you an idea as what is wrong. normal oil pressure is 67psi when cold and down to 50 when warm. when you start it, click the buttns in your dash until it shows oil pressure. 67-50-45 is normal when ICE(internal combustion engine) is running then it drops down to 0 when it is on electric or EV mode.