I’m offering $100 via Zelle/Venmo/Paypal to whoever is able to guide me the correct way (specifics - not just “take it to a dealership”) to get my 2007 Ford Escape Hybrid up and running. Even Ford dealerships I’ve reached out to seem to be hesitant to work on hybrids — one even telling me today they just got a new hybrid charger in their shop but in the 7 months he’s been there he doesn’t remember it being used once. That was the service center manager, btw.

I bought it at 39K miles last year and have only used it scarcely (only 41K miles currently) for a few months. It’s the original HV battery and already had the PCM replaced and reprogrammed. HV battery only at 243 volts and when you push the push button, it doesn’t light up. The shop it’s at now said he had the 12V battery on a charger the entire time and pushed the button multiple times randomly throughout working on it and hasn’t seen the voltage go up on the HV battery. He also said the wire from the HV battery to the push button isn’t sending any power but highly doubts it’s the wire.

I also had them replace the ABS module (with a preowned part) today because that’s something that had to be done prior to this issue of the car not starting. He was able to program it but said he can’t initialize it so he can’t internally bleed it. He already bled the lines. He’s questioning if it’s a problem with the pre-owned ABS or is it because the car won’t start/HV battery is too low.

After speaking to him today, he feels I should have a dealership charge it but no dealership near me has availability for almost a month, and I still need to know what would cause the push button to not work in case I need to charge it down the line. Or could it not be working because my HV battery is dead as a whole, which would be a waste of even more money to pay to have it towed to a dealership to find out it’s something completely different or if there’s a simple fix.

He’s taken this as far as he can, according to him. Now I have to get this car towed off his lot and figure out what the next steps are. He said once I get the car started, I can bring it back and he’ll initialize the ABS module but I already feel like I may have wasted a good amount of money for no reason. It’s frustrating.

 

One simple test to try, put an ammeter on the 12v battery and press the jump start button. I see 25A out of the 12v battery when it's jumping the HV battery. I used a clamp-on ammeter so it takes seconds to check.

Are you reading HV battery State of Charge with Forscan or a Scangauge? Knowing SoC is important for any DIY troubleshooting.

 

I don’t have an ammeter. Wouldn’t the fact that he tested the voltage in the HV battery after pressing the button kind of single out the chance it’s that issue? Maybe I’m wrong but I’m trying to see what you’re trying to single out. Is it that you want to see if the 12V battery is sending the proper wattage but the HV just isn’t receiving it?

And I’m unsure because the shop is the one that told me the state of charge. I actually just ordered an OBDLinkMX+ so I can use it with FORScan to replace the Blue Driver I bought last month and was already lost (when I lent it to someone - smh). I’ve never used FORScan before but I’ll give you an update on the SoC once it comes in tomorrow via Amazon.

 

Well lookie there! That's a wonderful post. Background info, relevant history, etc. Saves a bunch of question-asking, assumptions and digging for more info/clarification. THANKS!

First, SoC is of little concern at this point. SoC depends on 1) voltage, 2) current and 3) temperature. Since it's essentially impossible to get #2 without an operating battery, one works strictly off voltage.

The vehicle will attempt start with 0% SoC. It will NOT start with low voltage. I have seen successful starts initiated at 305V. I prefer to see > 310V. I have seen FAILED start attempts as low as 285V. Below that, it doesn't even try.

The choice to go with Forscan is a win.

A clamp on ammeter is a great way to confirm function, but it is not needed. Observing a notable voltage drop at the battery when the button is pressed will also help validate function (cant have a jump vehicle attached when taking this measurement).

If the shop did as they said, then they have likely confirmed that the jump start is inop provided they did it with key off/out and safety plug installed. If the jump starter malfunctions, it will throw a code. If you're not throwing a jump starter related code, that means it's not present, not connected or just busted.

Check that the following plug is present and connected (driver's side front corner of battery, behind rear seat):



NOTE that 09+ batteries w/o jump starter have this connector and can accept the plug, i.e., its presence doesn't mean you have the jump starter.

If you have the jump starter, it won't work without this connection.

Assuming jump start plug is installed, I would make one final attempt as follows:

FEH safety plug installed and in the run position.
Running vehicle jumped to 12V
Key out of ignition.
Press button.
Hope for a light.

If it works, let it finish. Wait for the light to stop flashing and do it two more times. If the vehicle starts, allow it to idle for at least 5 minutes before attempting to move it. You want to allow the battery to take on some charge. Ideally, let it idle until it shuts off normally before attempting to move/drive.

If the above doesn't work, the jump start is inop or absent. Given that you've only owned it a small percentage of its life, it's possible someone swapped out the battery. This happens a lot even on low mileage 05-08. I've seen it happen 3 times in my area - they just didn't know about the jump start, and their solution is to get a battery from a salvage yard. Like with any other part, they think "newer is better," so they generally don't use an 05-08 battery. If you're related to the original owners, and they are certain the battery has never been replaced, THEN I would believe it.

Good luck.

 

The plug is there and connected. Button still doesn’t work or light up. I’ve used the jump starter more than once since having the vehicle and it worked. It only hasn’t worked since this recent hick up so I know the car has one — I’m just unaware of what would cause it to stop working more recently, where the button won’t even light up.

 

Can you tell me why it took me 3+ posts expressing concern about the actual presence of a jump starter to get you to fully engage and respond?

 

After you explain to me why you get defensive over assumptions all while making assumptions. I would think it would be better to assume there is one if I didn’t mention there wasn’t one. Just like if someone told me they had a vehicle I’d assume it had 4 tires since the chances/percentages play out that it’s more than likely it has four tires, even though there are actually vehicles that have three.

 

Ah. I see what's happening here. The problem is I'm applying my personal experience repairing these and hundreds of other hybrid vehicles to your situation. Everything is uncertain until it's been established. As I mentioned, I have SEEN (and touched) low mileage 05-08 with batteries replaced with 09+ thus removing the jump starter, so I have to consider it as a possibility until it's been eliminated. You had two other opportunities to eliminate that uncertainty, but you chose to keep those trying to help you from getting the complete picture. Sabotaging those working to help you? That's pretty messed up. It's almost like you're spiteful towards yourself.

You tricked me. I thought you actually developed a modicum of respect for the time and effort expended by others on your behalf... for free.

My mistake. Fool me twice... shame on me.

Good luck at the dealership. Hopefully, you'll get out of there for less than $2K.

 

Nope. It has nothing to do with what you’re applying from experience because my issue clearly isn’t your experience. It’s the fact that you think due to you having experience and knowledge of the vehicles and people are coming to a forum looking for help, you allow that to translate into you having a distorted view of reality that you can talk to people in a condescending/pompous/presumptuous/passive aggressive manner that most will let you get away with because they want the help. Then when your irritating disposition is challenged and called out on you immediately get defensive and run away with your tail between your legs.

I rather not have your help than deal with your shitty disposition. I didn’t ask you for your help. If you have an issue with me calling you out for your BS, maybe you shouldn’t respond because with me, you bring BS you will get BS in return. Even your lengthy multi-paragraph response was engaged with a paragraph of passive aggressive babble. Until you begin to improve upon your emotional intelligence (more like the lackthereof), people aren’t going to appreciate you the way you seem to believe they do. Yes, they appreciate your help but you leave many appreciative but at the same time disliking you all in one. The difference is, most people will hold their tongue in exchange for the help but I won’t.

So go take your BS elsewhere man. And ******** - did you not read the actual title and the opening post? Free? I’m offering $100 for just the right direction. Not even an actual diagnostic or repair. WTH are you talking about?

Maybe you were too preoccupied strategizing how you can continue to be a dick and market yourself as the know-it-all that everyone needs to bow at his feet for some information that nobody forced you to give. So while others may plead, “PLEASE MR. S KEITH… GIVE ME YOUR ADVICE.” I’ll tell you to leave me the f**k alone and I’ll keep an open respectful dialogue with those who are also willing to give that back in turn, Mr.-My-Time-Is-So-Valuable-That-I-Have-Thousands-Of-Posts-On-A-Forum-Giving-Advice-All-While-Treating-Them-Like-They-Should-Wash-My-Feet-In-Exchange.

Good luck in life. Hopefully you find a more fulfilling hobby than improving your self worth and importance to the world by spending countless hours on a forum speaking to people in a belittling manner to make you feel empowered by the fact that you have “experience” ——— for $0. What a trade-off!


Oh yeah - one last thing - while you were too busy trying to impose your forum persona on me, you completely missed where I said, “The battery hasn’t been replaced…” But you’re far too pre-occupied making presumptions and downplaying other mechanics/shops to have caught that. Also, you mention your assumptions are going off personal/professional experience - I find it highly unlikely that more than 10% of the hybrids that had this exact issue had replaced batteries. So considering that sits in the minority of cases, for you to continue to assume that shows how illogical your thought process is to continue to push that agenda.

 

Yep, sounds like you need to call that dealer