Yeah - I actually figured out the voltage thing. I had to add it to the dashboard. The voltage was around 248-249.

I think all I was playing around with it killed my 12 volt battery so I'm leaving it on my trickle charger overnight. My clamp ammeter will be here tomorrow so I'll check to see if anything changes when I press the button but it doesn't seem like it. But then again, I don't know what would have drained my 12 volt so quick. I know my alarm randomly went off like 4x today but most of the times I shut it off quickly. I'm not sure.

​​​​​I did clear them and reposted the updated one. There are two screenshots I posted. Let me know what you think. And thanks again.
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The only code I'm unfamiliar with is the first one, P1260-FF. All of the others including the ABS are exactly what you see when a HV battery gets too low. I saw those same codes many times when my HV battery was failing.
Did you google "P1260-FF PATS"? Sounds like a security function that can be reset.

 

Your pats is ****ed. You need to program/pair the keys. You NEED 2. The car won't start or do much without it. My 09 was like this and no mechanic figured it out either. No, it can't just be reset.

 

Ok. I'm thoroughly confused now. So my 12V battery died last night while I was playing around with the car so I put it on my trickle charger. This morning I get up and scan the vehicle and there are way fewer codes after I reset.



And then I go see what the voltage is at and it was around 201. I know I pressed the HV push button when I first got in the car without giving it any though but as I'm watching the voltage it starts going up. So first, my question is are these even accurate readings because what would have made it drop to 201 over night when I was at 248-249 last night? And also, how is it rising if the push button doesn't light up or appear to be working? I'm confused.

So I connected my trickle charger (NOCO GENIUS5) back onto it and am going to continue to press the HV button every 15-20 minutes and watch to see if it continues to rise. The last time I looked at it, it got back up to 223.

Any explanations why it would have dropped overnight almost 50 volts?

Oh yeah - what else should I be monitoring? I randomly selected things and most don't seem to want do anything at all. Also, how do I monitor my 12V battery through this?

 

Battery going clears more codes, all modules lose power. Have you considered just charging the thing? The procedure is all over this forum, figure out the HV charger later. If you charge and lose a lot over night the cells are on the way out. That little jumpstarter is going to take many many jumps to get you up from 200v.

The pats could also come back if you try to start the car again. The only way to get that code is if you are starting with an unprogrammed or non RFID key. So you charge the battery, engine is disabled and the car never starts. Bonus if the cells are dying and sitting drops the charge back down to where it won't be able to crank.

In my mind this all looks really simple.

 

I don’t think I’m monitoring the right thing. Everytime I put the key to the off position it drops to about 180 volts and then when I turn it back onto the on position is jumps back closer to 200 and slowly climbs up (appears to stop somewhere in the 225 area).

And those codes from last night were prior to the battery going dead. I don’t want to figure out the HV charger later because (1) it’s something that 100% needs to work with what seems like I’m finding out to be an unreliable hybrid system. (2) I need to know if these are symptoms of a dying HV battery as a whole, and if that’s the case - I want to cut my losses now and not put more money into it. That’s why I came on here to see if I can get some expertise/direction which will play a role on how I decide to proceed with this.

 

A charger is $100 to assemble. I don't have a jump pack in my car and it's fine. This is not supposed to be common occurrence. Hasn't left me stranded but I drive it. You'll never really "know" until you charge the thing and start the car. And if your battery is failing you'll need that charger for your $400 junkyard pack, so you can fix the car properly.

If you charge up and start/drive around then you find 50v missing the next morning, you know your battery is on the way out. If you constantly undercharge you really know nothing. It sags to 180v because every battery does under load. You are far far far from starting voltage and only draining the thing more.

If I had your car that is exactly what I'd do. Then I'd worry about other stuff. Right now from that code, your battery can't even close the contactors. Again, bonus points if it has that pats code and the security isn't passable to ever crank. They replaced your PCM, who knows if they fixed the module or keys. Forscan with license will let you do all that.

 

I installed the PCM. They only programmed it and the two new keys I brought them. My understanding is that programmed it correctly because they said it rejected my old key (they were going to program 3 keys for me) but the two went through and when I use the two programmed keys, the security light doesn't flash but when I use the old one it does flash.

My concern is not making the charger. It's the process of charging it. Do you know if anyone made a video with the specific charging system you're referring to that shows step by step how to do it? My main concern is destroying the car even more and/or electrocuting myself.

 

I didn't see a video but there are some nice pics on where you are supposed to put + and -. I permanently left my wires in and have been in the battery a couple of times. Don't forget the diodes. There is literally no way around this, nobody but a hybrid battery shop will do it for you. That would cost $$$. I even asked and all they do here, (big city, lots of hybrids) is give you a different battery and charge up the nose. In my case, it was more impatience. You have a 40k mile car it should be worth putting a little bit into it. Just don't let it sit forever and it shouldn't drain. This system is terrible as a non daily driver but I think any battery assisted or powered car will be. Self discharge is going to catch a lot of people by surprise.

If your keys are good and it cranks/starts you'll be free to test if the battery is dropping big overnight. Then you can sell the car or get another battery. Right now even selling it would probably be a loss.

 

So I reached out to the dealership today and spoke with the service department manager and he reneged on his offer, sayign he spoke to his head technician and he’s saying it’s a 2 hour diagnostic. I told him I don’t need a diagnostic - I just need a charge. He is now claiming that the charger diagnoses the issue and that the head tech is saying he doesn’t think it will solve the problem, even though I’m telling them the previous shop I had it at is saying if I get the battery charged he believes the vehicle will start.

It really seems like they’re trying to rip me off here and just get an extra buck, when they’re admitting they just have to connect it to the machine. What diagnostic is necessary? I already paid to have the vehicle diagnosed and they’re telling me all I need is a charge (whether that’s correct or not.)

I literally told him I’m not asking for a diagnosis - to put it on the charger and if it doesn’t work, I’ll have it towed off his lot. I’m trying to get him to give me the $50 rate he told me Friday but it’s not looking good because once I said that he said he’s going to speak to his head tech and get back to me tomorrow or by EOD. What’s so hard about putting it on the charger and if it doesn’t work, it doesn’t work? WTF? I don’t want a $350 diagnostic fee for something I already had diagnosed. This is irritating as hell!

And I tried the jump start thing when I first realized the car wasn’t running months back. But at that point, the 12V battery was actually dead. Would that make a difference? I used the ammeter to check the 12V battery today and it was at approximately 11.3 volts. When I put it on the battery terminal, it was giving me some funky numbers though. Is the reading between the battery and the terminal supposed to be different?