My wife spilled some coke on front seat app week ago and didnt tell me so its stained pretty good. I tried Blue Corral upholstery cleaner 3 times and it isnt working.
Any suggestions or ideas?

On another note she is watching how she drives now and is getting 36.4 with half a tank left.

 

Leather or cloth seat?

I use the Lexol brand cleaner and conditioner on my leather seats. It seems to work pretty good.

Not sure what I would use on a cloth seat. Maybe talk to a local car detailer or your dealer?

 

They are cloth seats.

 

Check your owner's manual and get the right cleaner -
"INTERIOR
For fabric, carpets, cloth seats, safety belts and seats equipped with side airbags:
• Remove dust and loose dirt with a vacuum cleaner.
• Remove light stains and soil with Motorcraft Professional Strength
Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner (ZC-54).
• If grease or tar is present on the material, spot-clean the area first
with Motorcraft Spot and Stain Remover (ZC-14).
• If a ring forms on the fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately (but do not oversaturate) or the ring will set.
• Do not use household cleaning products or glass cleaners, which can stain and discolor the fabric and affect the flame retardant abilities of the seat materials."

 

The better question is:

Why would she spill it and not tell you? Isn't that what a kid would do?

 

If detergent-based cleaners aren't working,you might try OxyClean. It's supposed to work on cola-stains. I haven't tried it on cola myself, but I have used it on wine stains (no... not in the car) and it pretty much works exactly as advertised.

 

My FEH has leather seat but I use Great Stuff (in the big yellow aerosol cans) for spots on carpeting. You can also use on seats. It have always done a good job for me. I think is about $4 a can at Wal-Mart. Give it a try.

 

I 2nd the OxyClean approach, works well for me. Another product worth trying out is Folex. I usually pick mine up at Lowes if I am getting it over the counter.

Another idea to try is using a steam cleaner...don't have one? That's okay. Boil a clean white towel (one with no dye to bleed) and get it nice and toasty. Take the wet hot towel and place it over the stain and let it sit. Push down on it a few times to try and blot a bit of it. Then take a shop vac and use that to extract the dirty water and the stain from the cloth.

This is taken from David Fermani over on the autopia.org message boards:

1-CARPET PREP: Before getting any surface wet, dry brush the carpet with a stiff brush (brass bristled brushes work great) to loosen up any ground in dirt. If you don't, alot of this dirt will stay at the bottom of the nap and will make it even more difficult to remove once it's wet. Then vacuum and if possible blow out with compressed air. Alot of times this step by itself can make a carpet look 75% better.

2-PRE-SPOT STAINS: Identifying the different types of stains you’re attempting to remove is key. 1st treat oil/grease-based stains with a solvent-based cleaner. If you do this after the carpet/stain is wet, you'll have a hard time penetrating the stain to dissolve it (think of it as mixing oil & water). Then, treat food/protein-based stains with an enzyme-based cleaner and allow to dwell for several minutes (more the better). Then, treat other stains/dirt with an APC (alkaline water based) cleaner. *note: after treating each type of stain with cleaner, agitate area with carpet brush to work in solution* Vacuum treated area slowly concentrating on pulling/lifting the stain away with the suction of the vacuum. Next, towel (cotton) the area, lifting more of the contaminants out and into the towel. If needed, wrap towel around brush as this will help pull out even more ground in soil, wetness & spent cleaning solution.

3-SHAMPOO: Mix recommended shampoo concentrate with 1-2 gallons of hot water into 5 gallon bucket and vigorously agitate to create extensive suds. Submerge HD GS or wash mitt of choice into bucket and scoop out enough suds to cover 2 X 2 area of carpet. Work suds into carpet and then scrub with carpet brush to penetrate into fabric. (after you stop, you'll actually see dirt rising to top of bubbles). *this is where I feel a dedicated carpet shapoo this is high sudsing will out perform an alertaive product* Then, slowly vacuum carpet concentrating on lifting out as much wetness/dirt as possible. Towel dry area until all remaining soiling, chemicals & wetness are gone.

4-DRYING It’s essential that floor mats not be installed over damp carpet! Instruct client to take mats out of car (if wet). Make sure the mats as well at the carpet are 100% dry before re-installation back into vehicle to avoid mold/odor. Remember: mold grows in dark, warm, wet places that don’t have much airflow. Avoid using heat to dry carpets. If any dirt is still remaining in carpets, heat will cause carpets to brown and turn stiff. Use medium cool air (all doors open) for as long as possible to insure all fabric is 100% dry. If needed, towel carpets continuously to speed up drying process. *Using a dedicated floor/carpet drying machine will dramatically minimize dry time*. After carpets are dry, you *can* fluff carpet with damp towel (either with plain water or window cleaner) and/or carpet brush.