I do not have any pictures of the heaters, and the wiring, the heater is screwed into the back of the engine block below the exhaust manifold, the battery heater is below the battery, I think that you would have to remove the HV battery to see it, the plug is hanging out the lower grill opening, the wiring runs through the radiator support over the top of the engine under the engine cover, the harness tees off there, one leg goes over the top of the engine, the other runs down the fire wall and along the right side body harness to the cargo area. the entire syst. is hidden and disassembly would be required to photograph it. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

 

Sounds Invloved...however I am still interested! Guess I will have to keep my eyes out for one :-)

 

There is a button in the Driver footwell of every FEH.
This button takes 12v underhood battery voltage and warms the HV battery.
Each button press = 8 minutes of "warming/charging". The 12v battery is supposed to have enough juice for two cycles, or up to 16 minutes of "warming".

Thus, every FEH on the road has a battery warmer.

I guess in very cold climates, Ford wired this to an AC plug for "continuous warming" or periods of much more than 16 minutes... without draining the 12 battery. Just my guess to what is going on.

 

Well it doesn't get that cold around here in CT, however having simply a block heater would be nice for the instant heat factor. I am beginning to miss it form my subaru :-(

I would assume (and we know what that means) that you could just hook up only the block heater element, and not the battery warmer...thus saving a bit on the added cost.

 

Frankly... I have pretty "instant" heat as is. I find the heat coming from the vents is pretty good within a minute or two.

 

Does having a block heater actually allow the engine's emissions systems, like the catalytic converter, to warm up any faster? I would think that the cats are only heated by the exhaust, and the exhaust wouldn't really start out any hotter with a block heater?

I would really want to be able to get into EV mode faster, in the winter, and I am not so much worried about the interior's heater warming up faster (the heated seats keep me warm until that happens anyway). Possibly, a block heater isn't really my answer?

 

In short, YES. Having an engine block heater ( or blocking the airflow to the radiaitor ) gives you your first EV mode in half the time in winter.
While the catalytic converter may not "actually" be hotter sooner, the sensors think it is, so you get better winter results. The catalytic converter temperature is not actually measured... but is assumed to heat up as the engine block temperature heats up.
-John

 

John, the FEH uses 2 of the 3 HO2S sensors to provide input to the PCM. The first sensor in the exhaust stream before the catalyst (HO2S11) is used for primary fuel control and the last sensor after the catalyst (HO2S12) is used to monitor the light-off catalyst. The middle sensor in the exhaust stream does not provide any input to the PCM.

Light-off occurs at 475F to 575F and is close to the exhaust manifold. Because the light-off catalyst is located close to the exhaust manifold it lights-off faster and reduces emissions quicker than the catalyst located under the body.

Ref. page 1-109, 1-111 PCM/ED manual.

I wouldn't think EV is posible untill lights-off temp. is reached and the HO2S12 signals the PCM.

GaryG

 

Gary... take it from someone outside of Florida's flat lands and mild climate...

There is no water temperature sensor in the FEH.
There is no catalyist temperature sensor in the FEH.

There is ONLY a cylinder head temperature sensor and an air intake temperature sensor. From these two data points, the rest is "calculated" or infered.

By having your coolent ( also engine block ) warmer, the car assumes everything else is warmer too.

The FEH uses the air-intake sensor to approximate ambient temperature, and there is a mathmatical formula to predict warm-up times based on this, and engine load conditions. The reverse is true too. When in EV for example, the FEH computer will calculate cool down times based on intake air ( ambient ).

Experiments with the car, as well as verbal conversations with Hybrid engineers confirm this. I was shocked too that there was not an actual water temperature probe or catalyist temperature probe... but look all over your manuals, you will never find a picture, diagram, or reference.

Again, a warmer engine block, via an electric plug-in heater, or by blocking air to the radiator while driving from an overnight park will enable EV much sooner, and keeping the CHT ( cylinder head temperature ) warmer will enable extended periods of EV in severe cold weather. The actual temperature of the catalytic converter is irrelevant... or at least not directly used to determine EV drivability.
The O2 sensors you speak of control the fuel, sure... but do NOT control EV.
I know. #1 I asked Ford, #2 I've gone out and tried it!!!
-John

 

Hey John
You are correct the catalytic converter dosn't have a temp. sensor. This is where the O2 sensors come into the picture, neither the catalyst nor the O2 sensors can function untill they have warmed up, Ford calls the sensors HEGO (heated exhaust gas oxygen sensors) there is a heater element in the sensors to allow them to heat up faster, once the HEGOs have warmed up they can now measure the catilyst effincey (the primary function of the down stream HEGO is to measure catilyst effincey) Once the HEGOs have determind catilyst effincey has been reached the PCM can now determine wether or not the vehicle can go into EV mode. You are right the O2 sensors do not control EV, however they are a primary input.
The button in the drivers foot well is to charge the HV battery not to warm it, as we already may or may not know a cold battery can neither accept a charge nor can it power a load, and if you push that button when it is -35 deg. you will not charge or warm the battery, however the battery can be used as a door stop or paper weight!!
So not every FEH/MMH on the road has a battery warmer.