Has anyone bled the brakes in a FEH yet? My understanding is that it isn't like a normal brake system.

I've always changed fluid by just opening all the bleeder valves and letting the fluid drain out while keeping the master cylinder reservoir topped off. Works great. Haven't fooled with the brakes on the Escape yet.

 

This is what I don't like about all of the new crossover utes - they have no low range. I had a Subaru Outback that had enough clearance to get up and down mildly rutted forest service trails but with a stick and no low range, you had to charge up grades to avoid stalling/clutch slip, which was not the way to do it. It was Ok going down, unlike your situation, but I still wish just one of these little SUV's would be made with a low range like the old Toyota AWD wagon from about 15 years ago. Or maybe it was an earlier Subaru. One of 'em had a real low range.

Thanks for the post - very informative.

 

I have no idea if your method works because I haven't done that to any of my cars. However as far as I understand it there is only ONE difference in the physical brake system. You do have to set it up somehow so the brakes don't try to repressurize when you are servicing them. I'm not quite sure off the top of my head if you pull a fuze or what but its in the manual.

 

I wasn't asking if my method for changing brake fluid works - I was telling how I do it and I KNOW that it works. It's a closed fluid system - open it at both ends and the fluid is going to drain out of the lower end - it will act as a syphon. As long as you don't touch the brake pedal and you keep the master filled with fluid, no air will get in it at all. This method also works well for bleeding a new brake line although sometimes air will get trapped in a junction or proportioning valve.

As for the bleeding of the brakes in the Escape, I read somewhere that you need special equipment to bleed the system. The procedure you mention is for changing of brake pads. I don't think that addresses opening the hydraulics.

 

Jay(son), you need to remove all electrical power ( I think HV and 12v ) from the car BEFORE attempting any service to the brakes, whether you are draining ( flushing ) the brake fluid, or actually changing the pads.
Then there is a 5-8 minute wait period before you can safely start.

This car is like non-other you have ever seen before.
( Unless the other was also a FEH! )
-John

 

Right.... thats what I was thinking, just wasn't sure if you had to pull everything or what. But other than the electrical system to provide the brake pressure.... aren't the hydraulics, pads, rotors and such all pretty much standard?

 

Just so you know...wasn't questioning that. Its not a procedure I've ever done because all I've ever done on brakes is to change the pads and/or turn/replace the rotors. Anything else I've just let the shop handle it. Not meaning to offend. You do have to disable the power before doing anything or it might pressurize itself while you are working...

 

Probably. It's not something I've researched much, since new brake pads are few years away.

 

I'm not at the shop but I think you can bleed this system with 2 people by turning the key on depressing the brake pedal(ABS will pressure the system) then the second person will open each bleeder. MIND the fluid level if it runs out you will get air in the system and that might take a pressure bleeder and some software to remove. (because of the ABS system)

The disabling of the ABS system is for servicing the pads or ANY time the calipers are off. This can be done by removing 2 maxi fuses. This prevents the periodic brake system pressure and check. This check occurs when the door is opened, the doors are unlocked, its been a while or any time it would be really inconvenient.

 

I have bleed brakes that same way for years & it works great as long as your not in a hurry.

~John