Everyone,

I have noticed several times the last two days that I can run in EV mode while my defroster is on. Is maybe something wrong? The temperature has been below 20. Sometimes after a mile or so after turning on the defroster, the ICE would kick on.

EV didnt last too long this morning at -2 degrees. But my gas mileage is still running at 26. I dont think that is two bad. I have noticed that RPM's seem to be alot higher in the cold temps (below 20). I am also on my 2nd tank of 93 Octane also in an effort to avoid ethanol. So I am sure my vehicle is going to take some time to adjust to that also.

Anyways, I know very little about how the ECVT's work (even though most of there parts are manufactured about 6 miles from my place of work). I know on my Dodge Shadow, if the temperature outside was so cold, it wouldn't go into overdrive. But I can normally run just 50 mph on part of my commmute to work, and I noticed instead of running about 1700 RPM's, I was running closer to 2300.

Let me know your thoughts. I am garaged at night and it gets no colder then 45 in there.

Thanks

 

When it's very very cold out, it is possible to run in EV (for a very short time) with the defroster on.

My 06 did this a few times last Winter when it was something like 12º outside.

~John

 

I agree with Patrick's observations, and appreciate the info about the AC compressor in below-freezing weather. I think I did a double-take earlier this week when I saw I was in EV with the defroster on, since I believed it to be impossible.

Are the high RPMs an unavoidable side effect of cold weather? I've noticed that things get better once the engine has had significant time/distance to warm-up, but the RPMs never seem to get quite as low as in warmer weather. Or, if they do, it feels harder to keep them there.

Similarly, are there any additional steps FEH owners can take during the winter to reduce the loss of fuel economy (besides an engine block heater)? I don't mean to duplicate answers on different threads, and I think (but am not certain) that question might have been answered elsewhere.

Thanks!
-Andrew

 

I have had an 08 FEH FWD for a little over a week with 1000+ miles on it already. I live in NYC and have frequently had to have the defroster on. I have frequently had the defroster on & been in EV mode. The defroster does reduce the number of times I run in EV mode, but I still see it in EV mode frequently with it on.

 

The no EV in Defroster mode was always a "software" command, and never a mechanical issue.

I have an early built ( first 10,000 ever ) 2005 FEH.
So I have the oldest software out there.
Mine does not allow EV with defroster on, unless I have an ABS event at the same time.

Newer, and as new as 2006 have slightly revised control software.
It is my opinion, that the newer cars were programed to allow EV with defroster on when temperatures are 32'F or below. I often DO see my A/C compressor running at even 33'F.

Yes. I see increased RPM any time it is colder than about 15'F outside.
IN fact, at below -10'F my car will run at 2000 RPM at stoplights.
Really Really.

At -9'F to about +15'F my FEH usually runs 1300 RPM at idle, so it is probably +300 RPM at cruise speed also.

It was close to zero the past couple days in Minnesota.
I have noticed my engine water temp running 3 degrees higher than usual. Nominal is 190'F. Past 3 days it has run 193'F even though I am very gentle with the car. Very interesting, but also lowers MPG.
-John

P.S. I have also had heater on speed 2 or 3 every day, which would normally COOL off the radiator water. But no, past 3 days, water temperature has been HIGHER.

 

Glad to hear that it's the weather and not a car problem that's causing the Escape to rev at stoplights here in MN. Suspected it was a weather issue, since the point at which the revving starts seems to tie closely to the temperature -- happens sooner as we get closer to the single digits! My fuel efficiency has also taken a temperature-linked dive. Until the first big cold snap in November, I was averaging about 31-32 mpg. Drops down to 23-24 mpg when it's really cold -- a bit higher when the temp is in the 20s and 30s.

And here's a question for my first winter with the FEH -- what's the deal on jump starts (for myself or others)? If someone needs a jump, is it OK to provide one with an FEH? And, if so, do you use regular jumper cables -- or are there special cables for hybrids? And -- if needed -- is it OK to get a jump from a non-hybrid car, or will that do something really bad to the engine?

Thanks,
Liz

 

The engine starts via the large battery in the back... so jump starts are different. I'd read the manual section on jump starts to ensure all the advice given here is correct.

One thing to know is that you can give yourself an "internal" jumpstart if your HV (the big battery in the back) is the only one that is low. You press a button (I think its to your left under the dash but I've never used it) after 8 minutes the battery in the front has "recharged" the rear battery enough to restart the car. All jumpstarts that use external cars will use the front 12V battery. I think if you have both batteries dead you hook the two cars together like a standard jump start, start the good car, then press the button in the FEH... the good cars battery will then charge the HV battery.

As for jumpstarting someone elses car... I think the 12V battery is pretty standard, I think you can just give a jumpstart like a normal car.

Again though... read the manual to be sure all the details are correct.

 

For the 2008 FEH (and MMH?) the internal jump start button is behind a triangle shaped pull panel that is located on the driver's end of the dash. You should see the panel finger hole clearly on the left when you have the drivers door open.

Please read the manual regarding the use of the internal jump start button. I believe that if you are not patient after pushing the button and keep pushing it (like one would for the call button on an elevator to make it come quicker ), the process will not finish correctly.

 

IMHO do not jump start someone elses car with the FEH.

1) you could damage the dc/dc converter as it can only output so many amps and that is not the amount needed for jumping a dead battery on another car.

2) you could voltage spike your electronics. These are HIGHLY electronic cars and a voltage spike could hurt something.

Instead buy a jump start box, they are great and would not endanger your car or anyone elses. Plus you dont have to manuver 2 cars together.

 

Good suggestion, Mark.

Ford says your FEH can be either the donor car, or the recipient during a 12v jumpstart, but recommends having the headlamps and/or heater fan running at the time, for "load leveling" of any voltage "spikes".

C'mon, if Ford didn't build a car worthy of giving jump-starts, then the car should not have been put on the road.

And Yes Liz, you use standard, traditional jumper cables.
-John