Hey there, well my car is getting around 18-22 mpg showing on the cluster gauge .

It has the check engine light on and shows these codes, but car seems to be running fine, but auto stop not working all the time only sometimes.

P1600 - IMA system malfunction
P0420 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
P1449- ??

67-01 - catalyst B2 deterioration 2 below threshold 3 and 4 and B1, 5 and B2 ; deterioration 6 threshold 7 below threshold B2

69-04 - IMA system malfunction 2, line pressure solenoid valve A stuck ON

Thanks guys!

 

P1600 ignore
P0420 - might be fixable by Honda ECU patch. There was an issue with false P0420 cat codes.
P1449 - one of the more severe battery codes. This is the likely cause for your **** mileage. You are likely recalibrating frequently. First option to fix is grid charging.

Ignore the 67-01 and 69-04. They are likely false codes from your OBD reader related to the P0420 and P1449 codes.

 

Hey there steve,


The battery pack was replaced by honda in 2011 the car had 107000 miles and it has 173k now. The thing is that the car was sitting for more than a couple months without use and now im constantly using it. When I started using the car once again those codes, check engine light plus the IMA light was turned on, but the IMA light has now turned off with short drives everyday but the codes and the check engine light still remain. What I do to try and fast charge the battery is drive around and when im in third gear I let go of the gas and hold the brake untill the charge indicator gets fully green and the battery bars start going up one by one slowly. If I drive it normal - which is short drives for me, the battery charge will stay at around 2-4 bars but mostly at 2 bars of charge. The car gets very weak and slow without the autostop and the battery assist.

What cat is supposed to be - Bank 1? Is that the one with the exhaust manifold and one O2 sensor on top and one O2 sensor on bottom, right after the cat?

 

Honda replacement packs are notoriously unreliable, particularly after 2010.

You likely have a significant imbalance resulting from self-discharge. You need to get on top of it with a forced charge. Start and rev to 3500rpm to charge it (you can try lower rpms) until it reads full. If that doesn't do it, you likely need to grid charge.

P0420 is the upper cat. Again, you should check to see if you have the patch that got rid of the excessive P0420 indications. Honda replaced a lot of upper cats that they shouldn't have.

 

Yeah, I will do that keith - do I have to pull any fuses like I've read before, before I revv the engine like that? Does it have to be constant acceleration in neutral till it gets the battery to full? Or can I keep it at 3500 for a little let it idle normal then get back to the 3500 mark?

Today I managed to drive the car around for something like three miles, and I managed to get the charge up to almost full but couldnt get the last two charge lines to charge on the battery. Than I drove it normal - my question is; how long is the charge supposed to last when using it mostly on assist(normal driving almost no charge) after the charge has gotten to almost full? Does it have to discharge to lets say two lines - once driving back those three miles?

Thanks

 

You can disconnect the 12V for 30 seconds and reconnect. I don't remember which fuse it is on the HCH1. This will reset the BCM SoC to ?.

Charging at 3500rpm should be done in Park/Neutral. If it will charge below 3500 rpm, it's fine to go lower.

The SoC meter is a source of constant confusion. It is an approximation of the usable capacity of the battery. The only real meaning is that at full, the BCM believes that if it charges the battery at any rate, it will exceed 80% real SoC. If it's near empty, the BCM believes that if it provides assist, the battery will drop below 20% real SoC. The entire range is only an approximation of how the pack voltage is changing for various currents (charge or discharge).

Don't obsess about the levels when driving. A healthy pack will provide assist and regenerative braking when needed under normal driving conditions. Typically this occurs in the upper half of the SoC gauge range. The thing to watch for is recalibrations where the gauge quickly goes to near zero, stays there for a while and then force charges even when you could use the extra power. Sometimes, it creeps back up normally. Other times, it stops force charging and rapidly shows full. If you're getting frequent recalibrations, your pack is either badly out of balance or going to ****.

The purpose of stationary charging is to get the pack to where the car thinks it's maxed. Then you can drive and assess its performance.

Steve

 

Steve,

Do you happen to know which fuse? And also the fuse needs to be pulled before doing the revv to charge the battery part? Or after? The fuse needs to be removed and reinstalled than revving or simply remove the fuse and revv till fully charged and then reinstall it when done?

Thanks

 

Sorry, I don't.

Simply disconnecting the 12V for 30 seconds and reconnecting it accomplish the same thing. No fuses should be pulled during charging.