I purchased this 2006 Civic with 227000+ miles for what I thought was a very good price, even with the high mileage. Was told it had a new Hybrid. About 2500 miles later the transmission shutter on start up began. Next the IMA and battery light and engine light started coming on when I started the engine and at this time the engine would start but the transmission could not be put in gear due to the button on the shifter would no disengage. First time this happened, I called my son-in-law to bring the truck and tow dolly. As we were preparing to winch the car on the dolly, my son-in-law suggested we try one more time before loading the car. Started, shifted in Drive and ran normal. This continued to happen about ever 5th or 6th stop for about the next 500 miles. It then started doing the lock out ever time I turned off the ignition. That is when I took the Hybrid battery apart and started checking voltages. Battery voltages ranged from 15.72 to 15.79 volts on all 11 packs confirming to me that it was indeed a new battery. The 12 volt battery checked at 12.79 volts. After reassembling everything, it is still doing the lockout; although after reseting all the codes it is still locking out My local dealer was about as much help as a box of rocks. Help appreciated.

 

Hello Bob.

I can't help diagnose the shifter locking issue. There may be a problem with the sensor or the mechanism. There is a little port near the shifter that you can insert the key and override the shifter lockout. See if that at least works.

Transmission "shutter" or judder is not typically a problem with the HCH2; however, worn motor mounts can contribute to this condition... an unpleasant level of vibration until you get going.

Unless you KNOW with 100% certainty that the transmission fluid was replaced in the last 7,500 miles AND have confirmed the level is not low, I recommend 2-3X transmission fluid changes over the next 2-3 weeks. Changing the CVT fluid regularly with Honda CVT fluid is critical to keeping these things healthy.

Having torn into 5X HCH2 packs, I can tell you with complete certainty that checking subpack voltage tells you nothing about the health of a stick pair, and gives absolutely no hint as to whether it is new or not. If you checked the pair ends while they were still bolted into the end-plate, there are resistors that normalize the voltage across the sticks... so they will all ready nearly the same. You have to remove the end plate and measure the voltage directly on the subpack terminals.

Unless you saw a receipt for the pack, or have other objective evidence, you were likely lied to about the battery.

I can't tell from your narrative if the IMA light is still an issue. Please clarify.

Steve

 

Been having trouble logging in so I couldn't answer the post about the IMA battery voltage checks. I have taken the battery out of the car again and checked voltages on the individual 6 cell packs. They ranged for 8.07 to 8.11 volts. If there is a resister in these cells; Panasonic did a great job hiding. The shifter still locked up twice and I used a key to unlock and try to drive the car. The engine loaded real heavy and it took heavy throttle to get the car to move. When it did move, the speedometer registered "0" so I only drove it a short distance. I waited 30 minutes, started the car again and it shifted normal. I am getting completely confused at what is happening. Bob

 

IMA and engine lights still came on when shifter locked.

 

Sorry you had to do that. I apologize that I didn't make myself clear. As stated before, Voltage gives zero indication of the health or age of the pack. My elaboration on measurement method/resistors was an irrelevant digression.

It's still unclear. When it finally unlocks, and you can drive it, are the IMA/check engine lights on?

Again, I don't have anything for you on the shifter issue. Wish I could help.

 

When shifter locks the IMA/check engine lights are all on and I can override the lock (since I was told the secret as to how to do this little trick) and the car will run. It has trouble getting started but it will finally reach highway speed but the speedometer indicates "0" MPH. I can leave it stopped for 30 minutes with the key out of the ignition and it will start up and drive normal.

 

Wish I had more for you. Good luck.

 

I just bought another 2006 Civic Hybrid with 46000+ miles that was wrecked on the right front. Very seriously considering using the parts from my high mileage car to fix the wreck. I just got home about 6 hours ago, Charged the 12 volt battery on 10 amps for about 1 hour, started the engine and ran it at 2500 rpm for about 6 minutes and the IMA battery came to full charge. Actually drove it down the road for about 2 miles but had some wires from the right front get in the wheel and torn off. I need a right front frame bracket from the bumper support to the strut and a bumper support. I have the rest of the sheet metal on my problem car that would make this car ready. Car I bought is exactly like my other one. White outside with light brown or beige interior.

 

The shifter is almost certainly the brake switch, with your fingers run up the brake pedal and you'll eventually come across a switch, on my gfs Aveo triggering it a few times with your finger was enough to loosen it up enough that everything would function properly, of course might need to be replaced etc....

Of course, reading further I realized that you had more issues than just that... and this is a couple months old...

 

Thanks for the reply. I just started experiencing a missing problem today, Don't think it is the plugs. Suspect an injector.