Okay guys, you win.


Flat surface, cruise control at 35 1.5 stretch both ways.










Still going to get my valves adjusted tomorrow anyways. I just want to get it done since it has 150k. But, bottom line is I live in the wrong place to own this kind of car?

 

Not sure how we win. The only winner here is you given that you're getting the help for which you asked.

I would expect 60-65 at 35mph IF you followed the instructions and reset the trip meter after you achieved steady speed with cruise. If that includes your acceleration from a stop, that's probably about right.

Assuming you have a lot of elevation change, you live in the wrong kind of place to get amazing mileage with anything. It's also very relative. What kind of mileage would you get w/o a hybrid? High 30s with hilly stop-and-go is pretty **** good.

I have two '06. One has about 145K, the other has about 220K. There is a definite difference between them. On the lower mileage one, I can get ~50mpg on straight and level driving it like a hybrid. On the other car, the same efforts can only get 44-45mpg.

A/C use and GENTLE hills push mileage into the low 40's, upper 30's.

Your 35mph mileage suggests the car's efficiency is compromised. Factors include:

• Alignment issues
• Tires. LRR? Inflated to ~38-42 psi based on ride comfort?
• IMA battery deterioration
• Air cleaner
• Valves
• Plugs

 

But you know what I don't understand? Why do hills just destroy my gas mileage? Like literally, erase numbers off the table. Some of the hills are not even that steep? Do you guys think there could be a problem just with climbing hills? I average 40mpg. Literally, 39.9 or 40. So valves is happening tomorrow, and the broken transmission mount and control arm bushing is getting replaced when the shop sets up an appointment for me. The only other thing is buying that grid charger right? And then on to buying another battery later? Which Im seriously considering, or finding a wrecked HCH2 with a battery. There's a dismantler up north about an hour that always has wrecked cars coming through. Any other ideas?

 

No, I did not follow those instructions actually. That was from a stop. Okay, ill try it again after.

 

The amount of power needed to move a 3000# car down the road is somewhere around 15hp. Friction is your only issue. Friction with the air, the road, the drivetrain, etc.

Changing elevation requires you to RAISE the 3000# car against gravity. Compare this to your ability to push the car by hand vs. raising it over your head. A 1% grade takes approximately 6hp to climb at speed on energy change alone. When you factor in the ADDED friction from the drivetrain due to the higher power requirement, it's even more. That's >40% more power than steady cruise for a 1% grade.

The way to minimize the effects of hill climbing is to maintain a constant throttle setting slowing as you climb and accelerate as you descend until you hit the speed limit. You will still take a hit, but it won't be as bad.

Broken transmission mount is also a likely factor. I expect you have more vibration than is normal, and the resulting misalignment in the drivetrain can have an effect on mileage.

Grid charger is an absolute must. DIY version in my signature.

Buying a salvage yard battery is a total crapshoot. Good chance they'll sell you a core that's completely ragged out. If you want to go that route, your best bet is to try and use the two packs to build a good one.

HOWEVER, the HCH2 battery responds very well to grid charging and discharging. I have 6 batteries worth of sticks, and while MANY are no good for long-term use, almost all of them are usable with monthly grid charging. If you're getting occasional recals, getting a grid charger on it NOW will likely extend its life 1-2 years.

 

On hills/inclines, the goal would be to gain as much speed as possible -before- you get to the incline (especially if you know one is approaching). This will let you increase speed without having to rev the ICE high on the incline.

If you gain enough speed before the hill, you may be able to coast up the hill (or at least keep revs down around 2.5K while slowing down).

This is much better than the engine going to 4K or higher if you start acceleration on the incline itself.

I believe every car will take a major hit to mileage on hilly areas. An all-electric might be better because its more efficient all the way around, but it will probably drain the battery much faster