Yesterday I got in my car and turned the key to be met with a series of clicking clicking clicking from everywhere in the dash all the lights flashed on and off in the dome and headlights it was like my car was possessed. Even after taking the key out of the ignition this continued for several seconds. I called a Ford Service Tech who said it sounded to him like I had somehow triggered the cars alarm system. I think that is udder nonsense. Without me doing anything, several minutes after when the clicking had stopped the car responded normally until I got home. Later when I tried to start the car (and every time since) I get the same strange clicking/flashing lights but have not been able to get it to start again. Any suggestions?! I JUST got home from the hospital after 3 days and cannot afford to take it to the dealer. Hoping for some helpful ideas as to where to start looking. THANK YOU!

 

I would search through the other threads on this site. I seem to remember someone else having a similar scenario and it was a failing/low 12v battery (under the hood) or possibly a relay issue (also under the hood).

 

That's what I remember. The FEH alarm and a bad door switch seem to ring a bell also. He should have the 12V battery tested and make sure they have good positive and negative cables and clean connections first.

GaryG

 

Don't know about the other stuff but the 12V battery is required to close the main power relay, so it is a prime suspect. Relays make just such a repetitive clicking sound when their source voltage is low.

What I would do 1st is remove the 12v battery and clean up its main terminals. Then go to the heavy cables that connect the 12v battery to the car (I guess they're a #4 gauge wire) and clean up the terminal connectors on the inside of the terminal connectors.

There are those that would also say take some baking soda solution and rinse off the top of the battery itself. (Be very careful not to get any in the cells since that stuff kills electrolyte = dead battery for sure.) This is because the battery emits a gas when charging and this gas can carryover some droplets of electrolyte that become conductive with enough time to accumulate. This can drain a battery too.

If that doesn't fix things then go to the other ends of the cables and do the same thing where the positive cable connects to the main power relay. Then go to the negative or ground cable where it connects to the engine, frame, etc and clean that up too.

I use a medium grade sand paper to do this. The symptoms you describe follow what I would call a corroded battery connector or cable or a dead battery in a conventional car setup.

 

I had a similar issue with a Windstar... some clicking, no starting... Look at the key. On my Windstar key, a little chip had fallen off (I could see the little square missing) and that didnt deactivate the protection system (PATS I think it's called, but I may be wrong)

Try using your other key to start the car, see if it works.`

 

Where can I go to get my 12V battery checked out?

 

Any AutoZone for free.

 

Got my battery tested, it has 0 volts or amps or whatever its called. I haven't had the car for that long the guy looked and the battery is only about 6months old. Any suggestions as to why the battery would go bad that quick? Also he wouldn't change the battery because it was a hybrid and he didn't know enough about them

 

On the Hybrid there is a special converter to charge the 12V battery. Might be an issue with it.

 

I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited Hybrid - Thank you for the post ... as when I got in my vehicle tried to start... flashing lights, slight ticking ... noticed overhead not as bright, and quickly went down as I tried to start....

Note - I have had no issues up to this point, except seemed to be "harder" to start.... ie.. need to push in the key into the cylinder after fully turned "on" in order to start. it seemed to be slightly longer delay on engaging starter... that is the only "sign" I had.

Upon checking the battery noticed corrosion on top of the cell, negative side, assumed bad since that and no date marked on the battery, a first for me.

New Duracell 700 CCA 96R size Battery from Sams Club, ALL IS WELL AGAIN.

BTW SAMS CLUB BATTERY $108.00 OTD w/ SWAP.