DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
#11
08-02-2010, 04:50 PM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
When blend door should be opened? My door have newer been opened during 5 year of operation. Air circulating in closed loop through air cond. evaporator when it is hot.
Recently I had a/c problem and driving with hot battery frequently checking that door with running engine and battery's fans, door was always closed. After replacing of a/c condenser and recharging system my battery is cold and door closed again. So what for this door?
Recently I had a/c problem and driving with hot battery frequently checking that door with running engine and battery's fans, door was always closed. After replacing of a/c condenser and recharging system my battery is cold and door closed again. So what for this door?
#12
08-02-2010, 05:07 PM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southwestern Pa
Posts: 1,747
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
When blend door should be opened? My door have newer been opened during 5 year of operation. Air circulating in closed loop through air cond. evaporator when it is hot.
Recently I had a/c problem and driving with hot battery frequently checking that door with running engine and battery's fans, door was always closed. After replacing of a/c condenser and recharging system my battery is cold and door closed again. So what for this door?
Recently I had a/c problem and driving with hot battery frequently checking that door with running engine and battery's fans, door was always closed. After replacing of a/c condenser and recharging system my battery is cold and door closed again. So what for this door?
#13
09-20-2010, 01:21 PM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
I've been getting the wrench light on and off for a couple of months now, so I decided to change out the blend door actuator on my 2007 FEH.
Here are a few hints for anyone doing it themselves. The Ford part number is 8L8Z 19E616E or Motorcraft # YH1750. I bought mine at Rock Auto, $20 delivered.
When removing the large plastic rear quarter panel trim piece, there is a push pin located on the rear of the rear door scuff plate. You need to pop open this trap door and release the push pin to release the big trim panel. I also had a difficult time getting access to the top, outboard screw that holds in the actuator. I ended up removing the steel bracket that mounts on the D pillar. There is a bolt up under the headliner that must be removed - tricky to get to. Once the bracket was removed, I was able to tilt the whole assembly a little farther inboard and access the last actuator bolt with a small box end ignition wrench.
Total time was about 1.5 hours start to finish.
I took the old actuator apart to see if there was an obvious failure mode, but all I saw that looked suspicious were the little spring steel brushes that rotate with the gear to keep it from over rotating. They must wear out and lose contact periodically. This would explain the on again, off again nature of the problem. Poor design.
Here are a few hints for anyone doing it themselves. The Ford part number is 8L8Z 19E616E or Motorcraft # YH1750. I bought mine at Rock Auto, $20 delivered.
When removing the large plastic rear quarter panel trim piece, there is a push pin located on the rear of the rear door scuff plate. You need to pop open this trap door and release the push pin to release the big trim panel. I also had a difficult time getting access to the top, outboard screw that holds in the actuator. I ended up removing the steel bracket that mounts on the D pillar. There is a bolt up under the headliner that must be removed - tricky to get to. Once the bracket was removed, I was able to tilt the whole assembly a little farther inboard and access the last actuator bolt with a small box end ignition wrench.
Total time was about 1.5 hours start to finish.
I took the old actuator apart to see if there was an obvious failure mode, but all I saw that looked suspicious were the little spring steel brushes that rotate with the gear to keep it from over rotating. They must wear out and lose contact periodically. This would explain the on again, off again nature of the problem. Poor design.
#14
11-29-2010, 06:50 PM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
I've been getting the wrench light on and off for a couple of months now, so I decided to change out the blend door actuator on my 2007 FEH.
Here are a few hints for anyone doing it themselves. The Ford part number is 8L8Z 19E616E or Motorcraft # YH1750. I bought mine at Rock Auto, $20 delivered.
When removing the large plastic rear quarter panel trim piece, there is a push pin located on the rear of the rear door scuff plate. You need to pop open this trap door and release the push pin to release the big trim panel. I also had a difficult time getting access to the top, outboard screw that holds in the actuator. I ended up removing the steel bracket that mounts on the D pillar. There is a bolt up under the headliner that must be removed - tricky to get to. Once the bracket was removed, I was able to tilt the whole assembly a little farther inboard and access the last actuator bolt with a small box end ignition wrench.
Total time was about 1.5 hours start to finish.
I took the old actuator apart to see if there was an obvious failure mode, but all I saw that looked suspicious were the little spring steel brushes that rotate with the gear to keep it from over rotating. They must wear out and lose contact periodically. This would explain the on again, off again nature of the problem. Poor design.
Here are a few hints for anyone doing it themselves. The Ford part number is 8L8Z 19E616E or Motorcraft # YH1750. I bought mine at Rock Auto, $20 delivered.
When removing the large plastic rear quarter panel trim piece, there is a push pin located on the rear of the rear door scuff plate. You need to pop open this trap door and release the push pin to release the big trim panel. I also had a difficult time getting access to the top, outboard screw that holds in the actuator. I ended up removing the steel bracket that mounts on the D pillar. There is a bolt up under the headliner that must be removed - tricky to get to. Once the bracket was removed, I was able to tilt the whole assembly a little farther inboard and access the last actuator bolt with a small box end ignition wrench.
Total time was about 1.5 hours start to finish.
I took the old actuator apart to see if there was an obvious failure mode, but all I saw that looked suspicious were the little spring steel brushes that rotate with the gear to keep it from over rotating. They must wear out and lose contact periodically. This would explain the on again, off again nature of the problem. Poor design.
#15
11-30-2010, 04:04 AM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
No
No
And have you had any issues since you replaced it?
#16
01-22-2011, 09:31 PM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
I completed this job a while back with good results. It's not a difficult job. I've documented the procedure with pictures. To view retrieve a copy of the document/instruction manual I developed go to the link below.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ENseUVCdjR1VFE
Numerous people have followed these instructions with great success. Good luck!
-Corey
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ENseUVCdjR1VFE
Numerous people have followed these instructions with great success. Good luck!
-Corey
Last edited by corski67; 05-16-2012 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Additional information
#17
02-12-2011, 02:02 PM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
Hello All:
I was going to order the traction blend door actuator part online for $20 and shipping but wanted to fix this weekend and paid $34 to my local Mercury parts dealer for my 2006 Mercury Mariner.
Quick Run Down:
~Took the left side rear interior panel off the car and it snapped open fairly easily.
~ Be prepared and locate some small sockets 7/32 and a 7/32 open end wrench to get to the one hard to get bolt on the actuator (inside one)
I probably took more apart than needed but I removed the lower duct section on the floor of the Mariner and then removed the top plastic area that holds the air filter too.
I removed the part then the electrical connection. The actuator door is a small plastic piece that sits between the actuator and the car plastic insert.
Upon placement of the new part I spent a little more time trying to get the door to stay in the upward position and got it close and put two quick bolts I ended up starting the car and it put the door closed perfect for the actuators.
I can say afterwards I did not immediately put the trim panels back to ensure all was okay. My mileage for the drive at 35-45 city driving went back to 34 MPG and this made me feel it was worth my 2-4 hours today.
FYI: This was not a hard job but more of a time consuming one with all the little bolts. No electrical resynchronizations are needed.
I was going to order the traction blend door actuator part online for $20 and shipping but wanted to fix this weekend and paid $34 to my local Mercury parts dealer for my 2006 Mercury Mariner.
Quick Run Down:
~Took the left side rear interior panel off the car and it snapped open fairly easily.
~ Be prepared and locate some small sockets 7/32 and a 7/32 open end wrench to get to the one hard to get bolt on the actuator (inside one)
I probably took more apart than needed but I removed the lower duct section on the floor of the Mariner and then removed the top plastic area that holds the air filter too.
I removed the part then the electrical connection. The actuator door is a small plastic piece that sits between the actuator and the car plastic insert.
Upon placement of the new part I spent a little more time trying to get the door to stay in the upward position and got it close and put two quick bolts I ended up starting the car and it put the door closed perfect for the actuators.
I can say afterwards I did not immediately put the trim panels back to ensure all was okay. My mileage for the drive at 35-45 city driving went back to 34 MPG and this made me feel it was worth my 2-4 hours today.
FYI: This was not a hard job but more of a time consuming one with all the little bolts. No electrical resynchronizations are needed.
#19
07-16-2011, 09:18 PM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
I recently completed this job. It's not a difficult job. I've documented the job with pictures. To view a slide show go to the link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Familyc...JSRx9DckszaDw#
If you'd like a document that you can print, email me at corski67@hotmail.com and I'll send you a word document with the whole progression with instructions.
-Corey
https://picasaweb.google.com/Familyc...JSRx9DckszaDw#
If you'd like a document that you can print, email me at corski67@hotmail.com and I'll send you a word document with the whole progression with instructions.
-Corey
#20
07-25-2011, 10:50 AM
Re: DIY Repair of traction blend door actuator
I have recently been shopping for another used vehicle and stumbled upon this problem in numerous forms - All having to do with a faulty blend door actuator. This little actuator is found in the heating systems of virtually all newer vehicles, and based on the plethora of forum posts for all makes and models, this is an extremely common failure item. In my browsing, I found a pretty nicely outlined "refurbish" for these clever little actuators. It turns out that they typically fail because of grease and/or oxidation more than any other reason. So... For the ambitious DIY'ers out there - Here is a guide for refurbishing your blend door actuator.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/othe...-actuator.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/othe...-actuator.html
