There is a piece of foam between the the door and the body at the lower end of the A-pillar. Since you have to take the pillar cover off, I think you can also detach the rubber door seal near the foam. Can you run the wire between the metal and the seal, and then put the seal back on? I don't know how thick your wire is. If you can do that, you can then route the wire through the gap near the foam and push it up to the hood hinge. After that everything should be a piece of cake.

 

I don't know... how many people actually hide their remote on a daily basis? I know I sure don't. Plus, where can one hide it, where a thief could never find it (remember, if they are in your car, they are there looking everywhere for anything thing they can take).

I also wonder if a "common" thief would recognize a homelink button?

 

1. Yes I would like to, despite the concerns. The place where I stay is an apartment with double security in the parking. I never park my car on the street, and if someone managed to get break into the lot, they would be able to get out using the automatic activation hose anyway, without needing my Homelink remote.

2. But I have tried #7, it doesn't seem to be continuous. I will try again later today. Does anybody know of a definite continuous source?

3. I have been trying to find the fuse # for the lights in the car when the ignition is off, but the "Passenger compartment fuse panel" list on pg.231-232 of the manual doesn't seem to describe the fuse # for the lamps. Does anybody know which fuse # is coded for the inside car lamps?

4. I reset the tripometer to ZERO yesterday and deleted settings in the NAV/CD system by randomly unplugging the fuses, I don't want to do that again today without knowing I won't actually permanently delete some other features. Does anybody know if taking out these fuses will cause some unwanted memory storage on other systems?

5. Last question, I promise Do you guys think the 20mA current draw will eventually drain the battery in a bad way? Like if I had to go on a vacation for 2 weeks, will a constant 20mA draw cause a destructive drainage? I don't have a perspective on the significance of a 20mA draw on the system, so I am all ears.

 

Many moons ago I worked on truck alternators. The standard one drew about 20ma continuously. We had to design one for school buses that would sit for the summer that had lower drain so the batteries weren't dead in the fall. So unless you are going to Europe for the summer, I wouldn't think it would drain the battery. Especially concidering the 12 v battery in the bus was conciderably less capacity then the 3kwh battery in the FEH. Still, I didn't connect mine to the continous power

Jay

 

I tried #7 again yesterday, and yes it's continuous, yay!

However, fuse #24 (switched) is rated as 20A, and the instruction for LittleFuse add-a-circuit Fuseholder states "do not exceed 10A for original fuse" so I'm thinking of using fuse #29 instead. But then #29 is for backup-lamp and backup sensor so it's not as appropriate as using #24 which is an accessory circuit (for cigar lighter). Does anyone have suggestion for a relatively "safer" component or fuse circuit (10A or under) on the car that I should consider, so that in the case of damage, it won't severely affect the operation of the vehicle?