Hello,

I have a 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid in Columbus, OH, with 195k miles on it and it keeps setting error code P2004 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1a).

Does anyone know how to trouble shoot/correct this error? I can find very little information on this code. My first inclination is to replace the Intake Manifold Runner Control Solenoid.

Does anyone know if this is a good plan. If so, do you know where this solenoid is located? I think it is buried half way down the engine on the radiator side.

Any help would be appreciated.

Veets

 

Are you 100% sure that is the code? I have the whole shop manual however it is for the 2008 which should be the same as the 2005 mechanically and can see no mention of p2004. The only thing it says for DTCs not listed is to give a list of symptoms, do you have any?

 

My 08 also doesn't have intake manifold runners at all and I don't think the 05 does, what scanner did you use to read that? It might have thought it was looking at a generic mazda 2.3 which does have runners.

 

Hello 08escapehybrid

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the code is P2004 and I read it on a Autel MaxiScan MS309. The research I did stated that it might be the DORMAN 911-907 Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Veets

 

How many miles are on the truck? The EGR system in the truck causes crud to get into the intake manifold which could cause those to stick, either that or you could have a vacuum leak that is making it not have enough power to turn it. If the miles are high enough to need a PCV service I would say do the pcv and clean up the intake as best as you can with something like a Mercury Power Tune to get all the carbon out. You will have to remove the intake to do the PCV anyways and replace a few gaskets so you might as well do it that way if the PCV is due.

I can give you detailed info on doing the PCV replacement if that's the route you would like to take. If you are pressed for time I can look into chemicals that are safe to clean the intake with while the vehicle is running by spraying into the intake or a vacuum line.

 

It has 195k miles on it. It would be great if you could send me the procedure for doing the PCV replacement. Is it a long or difficult job? I am pretty handy mechanically & electrically and do most everything myself.

 

Well, this time of year I would recommend it be done inside a garage or somewhere warm. I would say with knowing how everything is supposed to go that it would take 6 hours start to finish taking your time. I ran into some problems, but they were from not having done it before and I think I should be able to get you around those. Please read my entire write up and view the entire video before attempting this repair.

There are some things you may need that you might not have/may need to borrow. You will want to have a 1/4 inch metric socket (smaller size like 5-12mm or some such) set with extensions and both deep and shallow well sockets. You will want an extendable magnet, preferably the bendy tip kind that o'reilley's gets in from Japan. You will want throttle body (not carb!!!) cleaner since you have other issues and are already in there at 195k. You will probably want a can or two of Mercury Power Tune, however a few extra cans of throttle body cleaner would likely work. I prefer CRC throttle body cleaner, the others are garbage. You will want the throttle body gasket from Ford, the aftermarket ones are junk. You will want the oil separator kit from Ford which include the oil separator, the pcv valve and o ring and clip, trust me it is worth the extra money, it's only about $45 and makes everything way less stressful, especially if you need the vehicle the next day, which I wouldn't recommend depending on anyways, since you could have a broken intake vane which is common on your year of 2.3 as well, fingers crossed for you that it is just sticky, if it's bad I believe there is a way to delete it, which you might want to do anyways, mine doesn't even have one as far as I know. You will want the PCV hose, Dorman makes a decent one, otherwise you can pay the extra 20 for one at ford, either way it isn't cheap, but where it is I wouldn't recommend a non pre bent hose, too much risk of future issues, and the whole job is just a bear

You will remove the engine cover, depressurize the fuel system, best way as far as I know is to start the engine then pull the fuel pump fuse since it won't even try to start with the fuel pump fuse out. You'll be removing the fuel rail and associated lines and electrical connections, generally the injectors come with it, not always, be careful, the clips aren't the strongest and yours is much older than mine, so really think about it before you do it, I ended up breaking the plastic tip on one injector and they're like 70 a crack, Ford is surprisingly cheaper than O'reilley's, who knew?

Before you do anything more, remove the negative battery terminal and cover up the battery post with something non conductive. A throttle body that actuates CAN AND WILL REMOVE ANYTHING IN ITS WAY INCLUDING YOUR FINGER!!! Take a set of aligator clips or if you don't have them a set of jumper cable shorted together on one end and short the positive side of the battery with the negative cable, NOT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL, leave it on for at least 15 minutes to fully drain any residual power to the keep alive memory. This will do a full clear of the computer and allow it to properly adjust to the newly cleaned throttle body. You will run it up to idle after everything is done for 15 minutes straight not monkeying with anything and that will set its new idle position which should change since there is no more carbon, the best way to do this is to turn the defrost on when it is above freezing outside.

Start off by removing the intake. You will have to take off the maf connector by pulling out the red pull tab the squeezing it, be gentle, it is not normally extremely hard to pull off when done right, on mine I broke the retainer tab fyi. Remove the airbox and tube from the vehicle. Take the bolts out of the throttle body and remove the throttle body. Now would be a great time to clean it as these are a common problem on several Ford models, the Escape being one of them. You'll want an old toothbrush or a brass toothbrush, NEVER use any metal that is harder than any part of the throttle body. You'll want to clean both sides of the plate with throttle body cleaner and then get rid of any lip of carbon on the butterfly or on the tube of the throttle body itself, I usually just keep cleaning off the brush with throttle body cleaner as I go.

With the fuel rail out of the way start unhooking any wiring as well as any hoses, be careful as some of the hoses have clips that are hard to remove without breaking. Any clip with a red tab on it has to be pulled out first then you can push where the tab was to remove it. Be gentle as your vehicle is older than mine and I broke a few plugs. Don't have a panic attack if they do break, usually you'll still be able to make a good connection with how they go together, just be careful and above all take your time, there are several, so triple check you got them all.

The video I am going to put on here shows removing the whole intake without removing the tensioner, I don't think that is possible on the hybrids since the engine seems to be closer to the radiator, either that or because I hit a deer. You will want to take the belt off the tensioner, generally you use a special tool that the parts store might give out a loaner for a deposit you might be able to get away with using another tool, but it is tight in there so get the belt tool if you can, after that it's three bolts and out of the way. I would recommend a new belt if you haven't changed yours in 80k or less since they are a 100k item and you are in there anyways. Now onto the intake itself, there are several small bolts that all have the same head size, I believe 10mm, get to one you can access and they'll all be the same. The reason I had you remove the tensioner is so you can get your hand under the upper part of the intake to get a socket on the one that is basically underneath right in the middle of the intake, use a magnet to find it if you can't feel it out.

With all the bolts out you will also need to remove the dipstick holder from the truck. The easiest way is to take the dipstick out and set it aside then remove the 14mm? bolt that holds the stick onto the lower part of the block. Once that bolt is gone you can pry that out of the engine, it is in there pretty good sealed in with an o-ring.

Before you can remove the intake you will have to take a 22mm open ended wrench and remove the copper egr tube. Go under the vehicle and find the pcv hose and disconnect it from the intake. Once all this is out you can take the intake out as long as you removed all the proper connections beforehand. It will be a bit of a struggle, just keep at it and be gentle, it is 10 year old plastic and it's not the warmest outside, you may have to rotate it to get it out, I did, but again, deer hit and 08 model.

With the intake out inspect the entire thing for leaks, it is normal around the molds for them to not be perfect so don't panic on that, look for any obvious signs of damage or where air is being let in. Look over your butterflies for the intake rail and see if any look broken or stuck. Take off the valve for them and check for free movement, clean them up as best you can with the throttle body or power tune, I think power tune is stronger but should be safe for plastic, don't quote me on that, the CRC throttle body cleaner IS plastic safe.

Remove the oil separator from the truck and assemble the new oil separator and the pcv and hose just the way the old one was set up, if you can't get it together separate it may be easier on the truck, but then it's colder and plastic parts... With the oil separator back on the truck make sure the intake it all dry and everything you want to do to it is done then install new rubber gaskets and put it in place loosely. Reinstall the egr tube now, it is much harder to put it in later, ask me how I know Hook up the intake to the engine, install the pcv hose to the intake, install the tensioner and the new belt, install the throttle body and new gasket, hook up the intake, reconnect all hoses and wiring, disconnect the short from positive battery post to negative terminal, install negative terminal, start truck and let run on its own for 15 minutes, force it to do so with the defrost (if it is still too cold out you can get away with skipping this step, your truck will just take longer to get its bearings and run as good as it can).

 

Thanks for the very detailed instructions. The video was very nicely done and gives me a good feeling for the bolt locations and the clips. I'm sure the PVC valve and hose need to be replaced since it has not been replaced before. This information will definitely make the process go a lot smoother. I really appreciate you sharing the process with me.

I am still debating on whether to do this replacement job now or in the spring when it get's a little warmer out.

If I decide to wait, what chemicals and process would you use to clean the intake.

 

I didn't make the video, just found it, but it helps to be able to see it all too. If it doesn't seem to be causing you a runability issue I would say you can wait until spring as long as you don't have an upcoming emissions test as any light or code will fail you. For the intake I use CRC Throttle Body Cleaner and I just keep spraying it in and keep sloshing it around. You will probably want to focus your cleaning where your intake butterflies are and maybe get an old toothbrush, I wouldn't recommend using a brass brush on the plastic intake.

Other methods on the internet for plastic intakes are a tub of water and soaking in simple green. For that you'd want to make sure all the electronics are off of the intake. I believe there's a MAP sensor there somewhere. Basically you want what you are using to be plastic safe and be completely dry before you are putting it back on the vehicle.