Rattle from Rear Hatch
#21
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
I had this same problem (or what seems to be the same problem)...
For me it was the glass on the rear end rattling where it hooks in. I ended up fixing it by wrapping the metal connector on the glass gate with a piece of electrical tape where it contacts the white latch. The problem immediately went away and hasn't returned since (~4 months).
Tom
For me it was the glass on the rear end rattling where it hooks in. I ended up fixing it by wrapping the metal connector on the glass gate with a piece of electrical tape where it contacts the white latch. The problem immediately went away and hasn't returned since (~4 months).
Tom
#22
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
Glad your problem was simple.
I had a similar issue with my 06 FEH. However, mine turns out to be the little rubber baby buggy bumpers they put at the corners of the hatch window. One is missing and caused the rattle at the rear window. Now to find out how much the dealer will burn me for just one of those little things.
Speaking of burning, it turns out the dealer wants $100 to code one of the transponder keys these things all come with now. What a rip! I have two remotes, two transponder keys and two transponder key blanks, JIC.
Soes anyone have a better solution on getting keys cut and coded? Even Wally World won't cut them because of the transponder, in case they botch it up (even though the systems are now automated.
Any insight appreciated.
Bob
I had a similar issue with my 06 FEH. However, mine turns out to be the little rubber baby buggy bumpers they put at the corners of the hatch window. One is missing and caused the rattle at the rear window. Now to find out how much the dealer will burn me for just one of those little things.
Speaking of burning, it turns out the dealer wants $100 to code one of the transponder keys these things all come with now. What a rip! I have two remotes, two transponder keys and two transponder key blanks, JIC.
Soes anyone have a better solution on getting keys cut and coded? Even Wally World won't cut them because of the transponder, in case they botch it up (even though the systems are now automated.
Any insight appreciated.
Bob
#23
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
Glad your problem was simple.
Speaking of burning, it turns out the dealer wants $100 to code one of the transponder keys these things all come with now. What a rip! I have two remotes, two transponder keys and two transponder key blanks, JIC.
Soes anyone have a better solution on getting keys cut and coded? Even Wally World won't cut them because of the transponder, in case they botch it up (even though the systems are now automated.
Any insight appreciated.
Bob
Speaking of burning, it turns out the dealer wants $100 to code one of the transponder keys these things all come with now. What a rip! I have two remotes, two transponder keys and two transponder key blanks, JIC.
Soes anyone have a better solution on getting keys cut and coded? Even Wally World won't cut them because of the transponder, in case they botch it up (even though the systems are now automated.
Any insight appreciated.
Bob
#24
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
Unfortunately, it isn't that easy any more. Since Lowe's, Home Depot and Wally World all use the same automated system to cut keys, they now refuse to cut them. Before cutting, they insert the key into a small socket in the drawer of their cutting unit. The socket has a sensor in it. If the light comes on, it indicates a transponder chip in the key head. They then state they are not allowed to cut them and they kets must be taken to the dealer, thus the up to $100 fee for dealer service. I agree, though, that I should be able to code the keys for the vehicle, they have to be cut first, so they'll work in the ignition switch. You've got to love Detroit!
I bought the blank key/transponder from eBay and took them to Lowes to be cut. The blanks were somewhere around $12 plus $2 for cutting. The programming is done by you by following the instructions in the owner's manual. You insert the new key into the ignition and follow the programming steps.
Last edited by bob95fxdl; 05-10-2010 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Found error in formatting
#25
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
That's a bummer. I'd try an independent locksmith or one of those key cutting kiosks before giving up. I can't imagine a small shop turning away business, and there's no legal issue here that I'm aware of. Keep us posted.
#26
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
I can't remember where I had min cut now, I think I had to go to the dealer, but it was like $1 maybe $10 (I bought my key on ebay for like $20-30??) then I programmed it myself. You might find one of the old fashioned places can/will do it. I saw one in an Ace once, my local old fashioned feed store has one too.
#27
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
I bought my transponder key blanks from autotransponder.com and then took them to the dealer for cutting. I think the dealer charged me around $5-$10 to cut the key.
I did the programming myself following the guide that autotransponder.com included. It was a really simple process.
It's important to note that you must have two keys already programmed for your system to add another key. If you don't have two keys, you'll be forced to go to the dealer or a locksmith. I highly recommend having at least three keys programmed at all times so when you lose one, you can add a replacement without having to pay dearly at the dealership/locksmith.
I did the programming myself following the guide that autotransponder.com included. It was a really simple process.
It's important to note that you must have two keys already programmed for your system to add another key. If you don't have two keys, you'll be forced to go to the dealer or a locksmith. I highly recommend having at least three keys programmed at all times so when you lose one, you can add a replacement without having to pay dearly at the dealership/locksmith.
Last edited by MyPart; 05-11-2010 at 10:19 AM.
#28
Re: Rattle from Rear Hatch
Tommyball you saved my day! I was so annoyed by the rattle I though I would get rid of the Escape. Two 3" pieces of electrical tape one on the hatch rod and one on the glass latch and my problems are solved. Can't thank you enough.
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